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"Hardcore" 89 (Black and Blue). IT RUNS, DRIVES, AND STOPS. BUILD ON HOLD

Overview Gallery Discussion
Ok so for one my fenders need to be cut some more. The 40's are so much bigger than the 37's with the suspension movement.

I killed the upper bushing for the front shackles.

I lost a D60 caliper retaining spring

I need bumpstops to go with the fender trimming.

My front springs have settled a bit so I am going to add a leaf to regain the lift, and level it out.


Couple questions

What size is the Pass side U-bolt on the D60?

How did everybody trim under the rad support?
My tires are denting the **** out of it, but I am not real sure how/where to cut.

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Backspacing is 3.25 or 3.5 I don't remember. Nope they don't hit the springs at least that I have noticed. They hit the inner fender real bad. I just finished trimming one side. Will upload pics later tonight.:laugh:
 
Excuse the ****ty pictures..apparently my camera is dying.

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Got the back portion of the pass side fender done today..still have to figure out how to cut under the rad support. I cut as far back as i could before I hit the firewall. Had to trim my slider to match. Got a new Sawzall for Fathers day so I got a chance to try it. It went through everything easily! Had to massage the firewall a little so it looked right :wink1:

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Rebuilding my 52's up front. Took a leaf from my 56 pack. Trimmed it to make it equal length from the center.

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Ready to flap disk and paint..Can you guess which pack was under my leaky PS box :rolleyes:

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All cleaned and painted.

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Hopefully get the driver side tomorrow..for sure this week.

Also need to get new shackle bushings up front. Found the driver side had a lot of play in it. The bushings feel like plastic.
 
Looks good Brian...


I could always give you a crash course in proper saw-z-all use on you rig...

The button on mine sticks...:D
 
dirtygoat said:
Looks good Brian...


I could always give you a crash course in proper saw-z-all use on you rig...

The button on mine sticks...:D
Click to expand...

Thanks! Things could definetely get out of hand with a sticky sawzall trigger :eek1::haha:

BGKYK5 said:
Got any picks from inside the wheel well looking back at the fire wall?
Click to expand...

Yeah I'll upload them in a few here.
 
Here you go. Doesn't look real pretty, but at least my tires won't get chewed up anymore.

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Did you have to modify your drivers side shock tower to mount them where you have them due to the steering shaft? Pics would be great...
 
No I didn't modify the tower at all. They had some trimmed from the bottom when I bought them. I had to remove the factory brake line bracket, and then used one of those holes and drilled another. It is fine with the shock mounted the way I have them. If you used a large body mono tube and mounted them the other way there may be some interference.

I took a quick measurement for you. The tower is 9.5" from the bottom of the frame rail to the mounting holes.



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Thanks for the pics. :waytogo:

How much lift are you running and how much travel in the front shocks? Also what do the lower mounts look like? I need to do this soon too. Thx!
 
Looks like the stock mount. I'm guessing 15" travel shocks...

MTBLAZER89 said:
Moved the brake lines below the frame for a bit more length and bolted up the Ford towers. They are set right now with about 7" of up travel and 8" down. We'll see how that works.


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BulldogK5 said:
They are still so clean you can see the oval in them.

The rear cuts look almost identical to mine. Nice work.:wink1:
Click to expand...

Thank you! I pretty much cut as far back as I could without having to do any major hammering on the firewall.

BGKYK5 said:
Thanks for the pics. :waytogo:

How much lift are you running and how much travel in the front shocks? Also what do the lower mounts look like? I need to do this soon too. Thx!
Click to expand...

I am not sure how much lift I am running. I would guess around 5" previously. I am hoping adding another long leaf under the main leaf will bring me closer to 6" to level it out. 52's with a 0-rate.

Shocks are 15" Pro-comps

Lower mounts are the stock shock mounts on the 60. (I did have to trim the rear inboard corners of the DIY spring plates because they were contacting the shock body at full flex.

I can pretty much use every inch of the shocks travel, but I am adding some lower bump stops and probably some limit straps to save my driveshaft, brake lines, and springs from damage.
 
Finally got some time to get back out to the garage tonight.

Made a cardboard template and got the Driver side fender taped up.

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Inner before cutting more.

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All done my tires should be safe now :D

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Inner afterwards

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Ok the second reason I am reworking a few things was the front of my rig sits lower by about an inch. I added a leaf to my 52's up front and I am considering an overload with more arch to support the pack, and actually make it a little stiffer up front.

I put two packs together, and figured I would post them up. I stood on each and bounced. The one with the curved overload is a bit stiffer, but the flat overload is a tad thicker so that pack is a little taller..

Does anybody run a 52 pack with the arched bottom overload?

Pack with the curved overload spring.

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Other pack with the flat overload.

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These are the two different overload springs. I have been running the flat one upside down with 4 leaves. Now I am going to run 5 leaves and one of these overloads. It was very soft before, and I had some axle wrap up front. Hoping to make it a little stiffer, eliminate some of the wrap, and gain a small amount of lift ~1"

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Here is the height difference. Flat overload is on the right.

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Looks good, I ended up doing something similar my fenders,I need to bend the inner fender a bit still

I may have to what you did to the front leaves also, or link it

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I don't think many people run overloads in the front. I'd run the curved one just because it is less likely to hang up on things.

From a just looks standpoint, a little lower in the front is better than lower in the rear
 
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