CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I think now they use a lot less dye in the ATF so I just use a paper towel to see the level accurately but adding dye can help
I think this is true. Recently I had to fill the trans and T-case. The old ATF on the shelf was more red and the new jugs were more of a light pink.

I like those dipsticks better than the modern setup - which is no dipstick and no fill.
 
If only I had the $20k lol.

It would be done in an instant :waytogo:

Really... Thad probably be a better use of cash than boost.:thinking:

Now that the wife has her own project. Maybe it's nat as big of a deal if she can drive it lol.
 
You could try to drill a couple small holes in the dipstick at the high and low lines. If they're full of fluid, it's full.
 
That's not a bad idea.
This is what it looks like not running.IMG_20260505_193021217_MP.jpg

Immediately after starting.
(Pulled, wiped, and reinserted first)

IMG_20260504_142649943_MP.jpg
 
I think this is true. Recently I had to fill the trans and T-case. The old ATF on the shelf was more red and the new jugs were more of a light pink.

I like those dipsticks better than the modern setup - which is no dipstick and no fill.
My 97 Mercedes for some reason they decided we don't need a dipstick, but you can get one for it, remove the plug and check the level.
WTF
 
Dodge minivans you can pull a plug and fill it, but they give you no way to check it....
 
Dodge minivans you can pull a plug and fill it, but they give you no way to check it....
The newer vehicles have a stupid method. You have to drain, fill, get the trans to a certain temp, pull a plug and wait for it to become a trickle, and then call it good. My durango and tundra and camaro are this way and it's dumb. Glad I have a friend that owns a transmission shop.
 
Absolutely F**K this chit! :angry1:


IMG_20260507_131219461_MP.jpg


This stuff is so much better it truly don't even belong in the same post as that chit.Screenshot_20260507-131357.png

Beyond a night and day difference.
More like the sun vs pluto.
 
Did you use just a mist coat, or a good cover coat?
 
Basically a mist coat.
The 3m one you can give it a real coat.
Never had an issue.
I tried this Seymour chit a while back when I ran out of 3m and it did this.
So I did real light coats this time on the 2 pieces.
Instant little explosions.
I have a whole case of this crap and it's going in the trash.
 
Was dealing with this the whole way across IMG_20260507_145237231_MP.jpg
 
Started on the dent in the new door.
In-between runs of spot welds on the back door .

Big block sand to find the outline of the dentIMG_20260507_153337371_MP.jpg

Wasn't very deep.IMG_20260507_153358491_HDR.jpg

Used the Amazon dent puller kit to see what it would do

IMG_20260507_161411997_HDR.jpg

IMG_20260507_161409247_HDR.jpg
 
After a bunch of pull tries, and a few hammer back in's....
I can up with thisIMG_20260507_183239498_HDR.jpgIMG_20260507_183244773_HDR.jpgIMG_20260507_183242841_HDR.jpg

When I make up the filler I'll need for the tail door, I'll put a thin skim over this and block it again.
 
Tail door chit.

Inside was crusty. I actually got it pretty clean and sprayed it with rust converter. (Forgot pics after)
IMG_20260507_102711801_HDR.jpg


I wanted to put a flat piece behind the butt to help with blow through. Probably should have just butted it and went. Which I'll try on the other side.
IMG_20260507_102718345_MP.jpg

Inner Piece I made vs lmc inner.
IMG_20260507_091750435_HDR.jpg
Mine vs factory. Should work way better lol.
IMG_20260507_091734706_HDR.jpg
 
She me more pics from last night

All welded...
IMG_20260507_234943773_MP.jpg

But I warped it and it has a reverse oil can..IMG_20260507_214829190_MP.jpg


Doesn't really show, but Im in the process of fixing it.
IMG_20260507_234954589_MP.jpg

And, I did a good job on hammering out the small dent that was hiding in the trim.
IMG_20260507_234928585_MP.jpg

Last night I drilled a hole saw through the inside of the rear door, and put a harmonic balancer puller inside, with the bolt sticking out.
Put a 3" square 3/16" plate inside behind the oil can center. And put pressure on it pushing it out even.
Maybe a tab proud.
Then took the bottle torch to the area to warm it up.
And let it cool on its own.
The oil can effect is way less, and it will stay out for the most part. But there's one area right at the seem that needs further persuasion.
But I was too late to be hammering so that's what I'm starting with today.

Then I'll get the inner in, bondo the outside, and throw a skim coat on the new side door.

Hopefully having them primed today and the other tail door started.
 
Couple from today.
I think it's going to be ok.
Hard to see anything from the pics.IMG_20260508_113658894_MP.jpgIMG_20260508_113708748_MP.jpgIMG_20260508_113646306_MP.jpgIMG_20260508_113638497_MP.jpg

That hole saw hole will get covered again.
 
Proof that I AM doing something on it lol.
Still VERY skeptical about being done by the end of the month.IMG_20260508_181700460_MP.jpg
 

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