CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
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That’s intense if the subs caused it.What could have possibly vibrated that nut loose?
My engine vibrates everything loose, your stereo does the same. The loudest system I ever built was only about 140db, I'm guessing you're way beyond that.
I'm guessing not tightened correctly.
It's a castle nut, the type with the top pinched a bit to be like a locking one.
Admittedly, it IS on a slap shifter. So that could have helped it go bad. But I wouldn't have thought this soon, since a don't slap shift unless I'm doing 1/4 mi, or 0-100 runs.
Off which I haven't really done many this year.
But... As stated , the stereo has caused a few issues too lol.
Swapped a bunch of nuts for brackets and suck like exhaust, etc. to Nyloc style. Because a few things have come free.
Between that, and RTV as loctite, think I found most of the places it was happening.
It's a castle nut, the type with the top pinched a bit to be like a locking one.
Admittedly, it IS on a slap shifter. So that could have helped it go bad. But I wouldn't have thought this soon, since a don't slap shift unless I'm doing 1/4 mi, or 0-100 runs.
Off which I haven't really done many this year.
But... As stated , the stereo has caused a few issues too lol.
Swapped a bunch of nuts for brackets and suck like exhaust, etc. to Nyloc style. Because a few things have come free.
Between that, and RTV as loctite, think I found most of the places it was happening.
If its loose I think I would get a new all metal locknut and use loctite.
I prefer the pinch nuts like these ones. The castellated ones seem to lose their "grip" quicker than the solid ones.
A cross thread is a tight thread.
While it's true on the first use i notice that the castelated nut can still grip good after a few reuses.
The pinched ones loosen up a lot after use.
It's the castle style from all Ive seen.
And really, I would hope I'd only need to tighten it once lol.
But, here I am, planning to tighten it for a second time.
In the vids I watched, putting a bunch of them head to head. The nylocs were best overall.
They just don't work in every location.
Like probably submerged in oil, or as a header stud nut lol.
Started the process of finding them because I kept vibrating exhaust hangers off the frame.
Lock washers on the 1/4 and 5/16 bolts weren't cutting it.
And really, I would hope I'd only need to tighten it once lol.
But, here I am, planning to tighten it for a second time.
In the vids I watched, putting a bunch of them head to head. The nylocs were best overall.
They just don't work in every location.
Like probably submerged in oil, or as a header stud nut lol.
Started the process of finding them because I kept vibrating exhaust hangers off the frame.
Lock washers on the 1/4 and 5/16 bolts weren't cutting it.
Now, keep in mind I have 300 or more pounds of sound deadener on the panels of this thing, every surface that's flat ish on the entire inside.
And added latches top and bottom of the barn doors pulling them tight down into the seals.
View attachment VID_20260928_153219405~3.mp4
And that song is all lows. It doesn't even get into the higher buzzing bass.
And added latches top and bottom of the barn doors pulling them tight down into the seals.
View attachment VID_20260928_153219405~3.mp4
And that song is all lows. It doesn't even get into the higher buzzing bass.
