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M1009 Standard Shift Build(The Greatest Adventure)
- Thread starter Richcz28
- Start date
Slickburban
1/2 ton status
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310267
Just linking my sye driveshaft thought process in here.
Just linking my sye driveshaft thought process in here.
And here are your finalized gear patterns and backlash measurements for the 14bsf rear.
Backlash at .008
Drive side
Coast side
You could prob plan on coming down and picking it up this weekend. Only thing I am concerned about is some crud in the axle tubes. I'm gonna pull the carrier once more and try to drag that crap out. If it doesn't work you may need to pull the axle bearings and drag it out that way. I don't have a bearing puller/slide hammer tool to pull them with, gonna see if anyone from work has one I can borrow but I doubt anyone has one. Not a common tool needed for Volvos.
Backlash at .008
Drive side
Coast side
You could prob plan on coming down and picking it up this weekend. Only thing I am concerned about is some crud in the axle tubes. I'm gonna pull the carrier once more and try to drag that crap out. If it doesn't work you may need to pull the axle bearings and drag it out that way. I don't have a bearing puller/slide hammer tool to pull them with, gonna see if anyone from work has one I can borrow but I doubt anyone has one. Not a common tool needed for Volvos.
I'm thinking crap in the axle tubes is a 14bsf thing. I had a lot of muck in my tubes. I tried to clean it out but couldn't get it alll and had to go through a lot of gear oil to flflush it all out.
Pattern looks perfect!
Its almost like you've done this before...
Pattern looks perfect!
Its almost like you've done this before...
I'm thinking crap in the axle tubes is a 14bsf thing. I had a lot of muck in my tubes. I tried to clean it out but couldn't get it alll and had to go through a lot of gear oil to flflush it all out.
Pattern looks perfect!
Its almost like you've done this before...
Yeah, once or twice.
There isn't a ton of crap in there, maybe most of it is surface rust. But there are some chunks of loose stuff in there and it's a good time now to try and scrape it out. I have a length of threaded rod and some sheetmetal I cut into a curve to make a scraper, I just couldn't fit it past the bearing. Gonna try from the center and pull the pieces in towards the middle cause the outer bearings look good, no need to replace them.
Oh, Rich, just pick up some outer axle seals and you can install them whenever you reassemble. I can't figure out why the one side was loaded with RTV excpet that maybe the PO was slightly mentally handicapped during his removal/install procedure.
Other than that I am reassembling the pinion with it's new crush washer and pinion seal tomorrow night. The lock right is out of the carrier so you'll hafta put that back together. I think I still have the book for mine if you need to borrow it for reassembly.
Yeah, once or twice.
There isn't a ton of crap in there, maybe most of it is surface rust. But there are some chunks of loose stuff in there and it's a good time now to try and scrape it out. I have a length of threaded rod and some sheetmetal I cut into a curve to make a scraper, I just couldn't fit it past the bearing. Gonna try from the center and pull the pieces in towards the middle cause the outer bearings look good, no need to replace them.
Oh, Rich, just pick up some outer axle seals and you can install them whenever you reassemble. I can't figure out why the one side was loaded with RTV excpet that maybe the PO was slightly mentally handicapped during his removal/install procedure.
Other than that I am reassembling the pinion with it's new crush washer and pinion seal tomorrow night. The lock right is out of the carrier so you'll hafta put that back together. I think I still have the book for mine if you need to borrow it for reassembly.
How hard is the pinion bearing to do in these Brian?
To just replace? Easy, just need a press to do it if it's the inner. The outer you can do with normal tools. Either way, you should replace the crush washer and a new pinion seal. Only special tool you might need is an inch pound beam or dial type torque wrench to set the bearing preload. As well as adapters to go from 1/4 drive at the wrench to 1/2 drive socket.
The bearings are cheap enough that if you are doing one, you may as well do both. You have to remove the pinion to inspect them both anyways. Hope I answered your question.
The bearings are cheap enough that if you are doing one, you may as well do both. You have to remove the pinion to inspect them both anyways. Hope I answered your question.
Hey brian. Come over to MI. ill give you lots of axles to play with 
You did. I don't wanna put the axle under my truck and then realize I gotta do the bearings.... I'm going back and forth about doing the pinion bearings though because I've heard it's a pain in the ass... I'm gonna look into it a little more and go from there.
Would I need to set up the gears again by doing this?
You shouldn't have to, no. If all you're doing is replacing the bearings and reassembling, everything else should remain the same. It wouldn't hurt to check backlash and the pattern after reassembly, though.
My suggestion, remove the carrier, remove the pinion (don't F up the pinion threads while hammering it out), clean and inspect all the bearings and races, replace what you need to, reassemble with new crush washer and seals (pinion and axles). Axles are not rocket science but, you need a few special tools and some mechanical knowledge. Other than that, it's just nuts and bolts.
For your benefit, and anyone else reading this thread, I will take some more pics and write some more details as I reinstall the crush washer and set the pinion bearing preload tonight. Maybe I'll even add a quick rundown of axle procedures for future reference in the Tech Articles section.
My suggestion, remove the carrier, remove the pinion (don't F up the pinion threads while hammering it out), clean and inspect all the bearings and races, replace what you need to, reassemble with new crush washer and seals (pinion and axles). Axles are not rocket science but, you need a few special tools and some mechanical knowledge. Other than that, it's just nuts and bolts.
For your benefit, and anyone else reading this thread, I will take some more pics and write some more details as I reinstall the crush washer and set the pinion bearing preload tonight. Maybe I'll even add a quick rundown of axle procedures for future reference in the Tech Articles section.
Unless there is noticeable slop, I wouldn't worry about it.
Martin
Martin
Except if your bearing race looks like this....
...which doesn't act sloppy. You won't know if anything like this exists until it's all together and running down the road you have to ask "what's that humming noise?" or worse, it lets go during a long drive out to wherever wheeling destination.
If the axle is on the bench (or the floor) it is much easier to deal with stuff like this before it gets installed under the truck. That particular race came out of the 14bsf that went into my truck. Found it during the teardown, clean and inspection process. Now it's a paperweight and a visual tool to show customers when they come in with bearing noises.
...which doesn't act sloppy. You won't know if anything like this exists until it's all together and running down the road you have to ask "what's that humming noise?" or worse, it lets go during a long drive out to wherever wheeling destination.
If the axle is on the bench (or the floor) it is much easier to deal with stuff like this before it gets installed under the truck. That particular race came out of the 14bsf that went into my truck. Found it during the teardown, clean and inspection process. Now it's a paperweight and a visual tool to show customers when they come in with bearing noises.
Hey adam. I think I can find lots of fun things to play with right here at home.Hey brian. Come over to MI. ill give you lots of axles to play with
But, if you want to pay for the shipping, send the axles here and I will install whatever gears in them for ya.
Hey adam. I think I can find lots of fun things to play with right here at home.
But, if you want to pay for the shipping, send the axles here and I will install whatever gears in them for ya.
First he has to actually mail my front gears.
I took a bunch of pics in prep for a tech article. But, for now, basics of pinion assembly.
The extent of "special tools". 1/2 drive impact (one with some balls), inch pound beam or dial type torque wrench (clicky type won't work), 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapter, and a cup of Wendy's chili.
Make sure to set the bearing in the race.
And install the new seal and lubricate with light oil or gear oil is good too.
Slide the new crush washer onto the pinion gear and reach that baby up into the housing, install the yoke, flat washer and nut. Tighten with impact until slack is removed. At this point you use quick zaps of the gun and keep checking for rotational force, try not to over tighten.
Research the specs of your axle and what they want to see for rotational force. New bearings in this application want 15-22 inch pounds. This "dead-on-balls accurate" torque wrench shows 20 inch pounds of rotational force.
It's not uncommon for the torque to spike when it first starts moving, what you are concerned with is the continuous force while turning.
After that, reinstall the carrier and appropriate shim pack, snug up the adjuster on the right side and install the bearing caps and torque the bolts.
The extent of "special tools". 1/2 drive impact (one with some balls), inch pound beam or dial type torque wrench (clicky type won't work), 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapter, and a cup of Wendy's chili.
Make sure to set the bearing in the race.
And install the new seal and lubricate with light oil or gear oil is good too.
Slide the new crush washer onto the pinion gear and reach that baby up into the housing, install the yoke, flat washer and nut. Tighten with impact until slack is removed. At this point you use quick zaps of the gun and keep checking for rotational force, try not to over tighten.
Research the specs of your axle and what they want to see for rotational force. New bearings in this application want 15-22 inch pounds. This "dead-on-balls accurate" torque wrench shows 20 inch pounds of rotational force.
It's not uncommon for the torque to spike when it first starts moving, what you are concerned with is the continuous force while turning.
After that, reinstall the carrier and appropriate shim pack, snug up the adjuster on the right side and install the bearing caps and torque the bolts.
Ever use a dial indicator torque wrench?
Martin
Martin
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