CK5
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One Piece at a Time: My 1985 Diesel Suburban
- Thread starter AgDieseler
- Start date
I really like the way this turned out in the rear. It makes me want to call ORD right now. Are you cycling about 14 inches in the rear?
The springs themselves have about a 19" range. I've limited up travel to only 1.5" negative and don't let the shackle fall below level, so that gives 14.75" as measured at the u-bolt plate, and keeps about the last 1/2" of shock travel at either end in reserve. I'm sure articulated travel at the tires is something just slightly more, but I didn't measure it.
David
Holy molly that's a lot of travel out of leafs, I would like to net around 16'' max to compliment the front.
Got Nitrogen too yeah?
I'll make a quick run over to Tribe16, and they'll throw a charge in them. I thought about using CO2 to get me going, but those folks are just so conveniently located, and we can get it done in about 5 minutes on a lift.
David
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I know everyone already knows this, but wheel travel is often a more impressive number than the specs of the shock itself.
My 14" travel fronts measured 22" under the tire (articulated) at the lowest point when I finally stretched them to their limits this weekend.
That was pretty cool.
-G
Yes sir, trying to run the shocks under the bed and I have my front strapped at 13 and 3/4 ish
Outstanding work sir. I feel unworthy to even read this thread lol.
When it's in my buddy's shop, we'll get after it with the forklift and get some rough measurements. I bet it's close to 19" of wheel travel at either end, but that’s a bit of a guess.
Meanwhile, I started in on the downpipe. Pie cuts and oval will get it around the coilover. Heat wrap will keep the shock alive.
David
What's your favorite setting for TIG on those stainless tack welds?
My best luck seems to be at 90A.... I go full-throttle for maybe 1/2 second then slam it shut again (no pulse). Seems to get me a nice fat puddle without blowing through the thin stuff.
-G
My best luck seems to be at 90A.... I go full-throttle for maybe 1/2 second then slam it shut again (no pulse). Seems to get me a nice fat puddle without blowing through the thin stuff.
-G
For this 16ga stuff, I run a 2T trigger (no pedal, just on/off) at 55A and a #8 cup. The key is to have the joint super tight and a slightly longer-than-normal arc length. It's gives a good dab that penetrates about 80%, and doesn't "sugar" on the inside. I have my .045 309L on hand, but only need to dab 10% of the time.
David
Downpipe is assembled.
It goes from 4” round to 4” oval back to round, and down to 3” round, and then to a bunch of pie cuts and to a v-band once it’s behind the bellhousing hardware. There’s an inch of clearance all the way around, and I’ll still build a heat shield in addition to the super duper headershield ally wrap.
I’m all setup for an AM backpurge and burn.
David
It goes from 4” round to 4” oval back to round, and down to 3” round, and then to a bunch of pie cuts and to a v-band once it’s behind the bellhousing hardware. There’s an inch of clearance all the way around, and I’ll still build a heat shield in addition to the super duper headershield ally wrap.
I’m all setup for an AM backpurge and burn.
David
Looks kinda like a tuned pipe on a two-cycle motocross bike. Pretty crazy how it snakes around all the other goodies. Good work as always!
And the anti-seize I used earlier has almost worn off!
Thanks bud. Kurt said the same thing. It totally looks like a tuned two-stroke exhaust, but so much heavier. Stainless adds up!
David
I think you are a little late to the game thinking about weight now!
Glad to see you didn’t go overboard on this exhaust section...
-G
-G
I've often thought a full oval exhaust would be kinda cool. Don't know why tho, because you can't see it once it's done. 
