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PLAN B

This build was 2 parts 1 i have a truck I made to pretty to wheel so I'm building an ugly one I can actually enjoy. And 2. My cousin has been trying to join us for blazer bash but his truck wont be ready so we are surprising him with this one
Overview Gallery Discussion
The 2 piece seals have an inner race, or wear surface, that is crimped into the main body.
Some of the 2 piece seals merely require that you use a flat plate to drive them in. Most drivers that I use and have seen are aluminum. There are a few that have a recessed area to avoid contact of the inner part.
Usually damage occurs when using a hammer or too soft of a driver plate.

Heat usually isn't an issue for 2 piece seals until say, the brakes are smoking heat scenarios. This is if the seal is in satisfactory condition.

I know for a fact that mixer trucks and dump trucks get more abuse than a K5. The leverage of the 40s may cause more deflection if the bearings aren't tight enough, but 14FF axles have taken other abuse from overloading quite well. I had 2 tons of rock in the bed of my '95 more than twice. Scaled out of the pit when I did it.

The disc brake conversion means that the axle has been apart from factory, but difficult to tell what seal was installed if you can't see it, or don't know what the difference looks like. Maybe someone went cheap, and didn't pull the bearings out when doing the disc brake conversion?
 
6872xtc said:
The 2 piece seals have an inner race, or wear surface, that is crimped into the main body.
Some of the 2 piece seals merely require that you use a flat plate to drive them in. Most drivers that I use and have seen are aluminum. There are a few that have a recessed area to avoid contact of the inner part.
Usually damage occurs when using a hammer or too soft of a driver plate.

Heat usually isn't an issue for 2 piece seals until say, the brakes are smoking heat scenarios. This is if the seal is in satisfactory condition.

I know for a fact that mixer trucks and dump trucks get more abuse than a K5. The leverage of the 40s may cause more deflection if the bearings aren't tight enough, but 14FF axles have taken other abuse from overloading quite well. I had 2 tons of rock in the bed of my '95 more than twice. Scaled out of the pit when I did it.

The disc brake conversion means that the axle has been apart from factory, but difficult to tell what seal was installed if you can't see it, or don't know what the difference looks like. Maybe someone went cheap, and didn't pull the bearings out when doing the disc brake conversion?
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It's possible. I got the axle geared, shaved armored and with the dish brakes. I haven't done much but install them
 
nvrenuf said:
Check the axle vent to see if it’s plugged.
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I had a few mins today and I checked this, I blew down the tube connected to my catch can and it had a little fluid in it but it wasn't plugged. I was able to burp it out. I was also able to blow through the axle side easy. I think it's good on the plugging.
 
One of my favorite parts of wheeling is the damage assessment aftwards and fixing/improving things. Looking like I smashed my brand new fuel tank, warped a rotor and blew out some seals. Overall not too bad for all the fun that was had. Time to UPGRADE.

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I recommend the 2 piece seals like ORD sells, much better especially if the axle surface isn't perfect.
 
I'm having a bit of a power drain issue and it's not making sense... I can leave the truck alone for a week or more and the battery holds a charge just fine. Then randomly overnight it will drain clear down to zero. I thought I had a bad battery so I got a new one and everything seemed OK until last week. It just died again out of nowhere. I fully charged the battery and unhooked my ground cable and added a test light in line and started pulling fuses until the light turned off. Turned out to be the horn/dm fuse (#1) I did some further digging and above that fuse there are two wires in ports that say "bat +" or something that get power through that fuse. One wire provides power to the door lights the other is 12v constant to the stereo. I pulled each of those and the test light would only shut off when I disconnect the stereo 12v constant wire. I pulled the stereo out and swapped it with 2 different stereos (God bless alpine for using the same plug forever) and they all did the same thing... the second any were plugged in the light would turn back on. I ran a new 12v constant and ground and tried again and as soon as I plug in the stereo the light turns on. Is that normal? Do they really draw that much turned off? What else would you guys check

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I wired my Alpine double DIN stereo, using all the original radio wiring. Then added a small Amp to the deck itself. 50 Amps, all powered from the radio wiring. When it is off, it does pull 12 volts, but, the amperage pull is very low, less than 1 Amp for the clock and station memory.
At most it sits for a day or two always starts, no problems.
Maybe your stereo has something gone wrong.
 
If it was mine, my 20 year old snap on meter(made by FLUKE) back then. It has a memory feature that let's it monitor a circuit, you can see what a circuit is doing over a long period of time. It can display it on a graph. Also,has a highest draw and lowest draw memory also.
I'd do something like that just so I could prove it.
 
Yes.
Every new
the_blaze said:
I'm having a bit of a power drain issue and it's not making sense... I can leave the truck alone for a week or more and the battery holds a charge just fine. Then randomly overnight it will drain clear down to zero. I thought I had a bad battery so I got a new one and everything seemed OK until last week. It just died again out of nowhere. I fully charged the battery and unhooked my ground cable and added a test light in line and started pulling fuses until the light turned off. Turned out to be the horn/dm fuse (#1) I did some further digging and above that fuse there are two wires in ports that say "bat +" or something that get power through that fuse. One wire provides power to the door lights the other is 12v constant to the stereo. I pulled each of those and the test light would only shut off when I disconnect the stereo 12v constant wire. I pulled the stereo out and swapped it with 2 different stereos (God bless alpine for using the same plug forever) and they all did the same thing... the second any were plugged in the light would turn back on. I ran a new 12v constant and ground and tried again and as soon as I plug in the stereo the light turns on. Is that normal? Do they really draw that much turned off? What else would you guys check

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Vehicle I have has that problem if I don't drive it in a month.
Try and rotate and drive all of them at least once a month
 
Yeah it's frustrating. It sat for weeks no problem I drove it and the next morning it was dead dead. When whatever is drawing is pulling power it must be a pretty solid pull.
 
You've tested with several different radios, maybe there's short in the harness. Just like @BoondocK5 said they will draw power, but it's only for memory and it's very low amounts. To drain the battery over night makes me think someone left lights on or there's a short somewhere that only occurs when the harness moves just right after driving.
 
I usually monitor amp draw vs voltage. It gives a better look at actual power consumption. Typically 30-50 milliamperes is in spec for draw on most GM cars/trucks. That will maintain the memory for the radio and keep alive memory in the ecm/pcm.

Keep this in mind that low of draw isn’t enough to light a bulb but even a 5 buck Habor Freight meter will see it.

I’d use a cheap meter in this case because it’s easy to pop the fuse within the meter if somebody forgets it’s hooked up and opens the door causing the load of the interior lights to come on. Better meters use oddball fuses that are a chore to find. Most are only rated for 5-10 amps.

If you isolated to a point where the draw goes away if you unplug it I would physically trace it out and see what else is tapped onto that circuit. The previous owner butchery is highly possible and won’t be seen on a stock schematic. Just have to follow it.
 
Chevman88 said:
You've tested with several different radios, maybe there's short in the harness. Just like @BoondocK5 said they will draw power, but it's only for memory and it's very low amounts. To drain the battery over night makes me think someone left lights on or there's a short somewhere that only occurs when the harness moves just right after driving.
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Agreed
 
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