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Project Resurrection: The s10 truggy.

Overview Gallery Discussion
Im sticking this picture in here more for me than you guys, but you can look at it if you want :D


This is basically what Im going to do on the back. Except it will go over the cab as an exo and be structural with tie ins through the flatbed to the frame. Excuse me while I put the horse in front of the cart.

179936_10150778460187706_1748577381_n.jpg
 
So and this is just me. Why not do a nv3500 especially if you can find one cheaper. I know the toy cases have crap for low range but doubled up its pretty dang good plus you could put 4.7s in the back case if it wasn't low enough.

Plus the 3500 is smaller might make things easier to work on and or around
 
blazinzuk said:
So and this is just me. Why not do a nv3500 especially if you can find one cheaper. I know the toy cases have crap for low range but doubled up its pretty dang good plus you could put 4.7s in the back case if it wasn't low enough.

Plus the 3500 is smaller might make things easier to work on and or around
Click to expand...

I wanted to run a 3500 from a fullsize TBH for the 4:1 first but no one makes a nv3500 to toyota adapter. Ive got to call AA and find out how it is that that adapter wont work. I honestly dont get it because the stock tcases are interchangeable...
 
Cool build!

FWIW, there's a guy around here that was running Marlin Crawler transfer case parts in his full size Chevy rock crawler. This was ages ago before the Toyota scene really blew up. Not too sure how it was cobbled together but he beat the living dog piss out if it and I don't think it ever broke. At least not the transfer cases.
 
blazinzuk said:
So and this is just me. Why not do a nv3500 especially if you can find one cheaper. I know the toy cases have crap for low range but doubled up its pretty dang good plus you could put 4.7s in the back case if it wasn't low enough.

Plus the 3500 is smaller might make things easier to work on and or around
Click to expand...

Well I called AA today. The adapter doesnt bolt onto the tcase pattern, it replaces the tail housing of the trans which is why it wont translate over to a 3500. He said they dont offer anything for a 3500 so I guess Im either going to go for a 4500 or dig around and see if anyone homebrewed that setup. I could go from the 4.3 and run a toyota trans but the w56 behind a 4.3 is said to be iffy. I could find an R series transmission as theyre much stronger but then I would need a bellhousing adapter and a transfer case adapter...




izzy1776 said:
Cool build!

FWIW, there's a guy around here that was running Marlin Crawler transfer case parts in his full size Chevy rock crawler. This was ages ago before the Toyota scene really blew up. Not too sure how it was cobbled together but he beat the living dog piss out if it and I don't think it ever broke. At least not the transfer cases.
Click to expand...


I would like to see that...
 
So would I, it was from when Marlin first started out. I'm pretty sure that the only think left of the Chevy is a pile of broken parts while everything else has been re-purposed.
 
izzy1776 said:
So would I, it was from when Marlin first started out. I'm pretty sure that the only think left of the Chevy is a pile of broken parts while everything else has been re-purposed.
Click to expand...

Thats too bad.


I know I could get a toy case behind a 3500 if I could purchase just the 32 to 21 spline coupler from AA and go from there building my own but its not worth it to be honest. Im just going to run the 4500 and never have to worry about hurting my trans.

Crawl ratio with dual 2.28 cases would be 132:1 with the shallower granny gear and 275:1 with a 2.28/4.7 setup. I dont think I would really ever need to go to a 4.7 case lol.

I also measured out the cab vs the frame today and despite it originally being designed for a trooper the ext cab will sit almost perfect on the flat belly of the frame and rise up right at the rear of it. Im going to try to tear down the s10 this weekend if we dont get bad weather and I would like to consider getting the cab mounted and then taken back off this coming week.

Im also either going to call Pauls buddy for a quote on a fuel cell or call a kid I went to school with to get a price on having a fuel cell made with an angle in the bottom to fit against the cab for max capacity. I suspect it may not be worth the cost though and may consider learning the spool gun and making it myself.
 
my guy's friggin good.. they do nice work.. about a mile down 9 on butler.. and his pricing always seems reasonable...
 
ryoken said:
my guy's friggin good.. they do nice work.. about a mile down 9 on butler.. and his pricing always seems reasonable...
Click to expand...

I might make the thing and get it all tacked together with the spoolgun from work. Depending on how comfortable I feel with it I might give it a shot, or just bring it to him to finish weld if hes cool with that.
 
not sure of their procedure, that MAY be ok.. tho, I don't think you'd be saving yourself anything by tacking it up.. he'd probably rather just have the pieces, labeled #1, 2, yada, and a quick drawing of how it goes together and just let them assembly it how they like to.....
 
ryoken said:
not sure of their procedure, that MAY be ok.. tho, I don't think you'd be saving yourself anything by tacking it up.. he'd probably rather just have the pieces, labeled #1, 2, yada, and a quick drawing of how it goes together and just let them assembly it how they like to.....
Click to expand...

Well its probably going to be complicated and drawn in CAD first lol. A wedge bottom with a sump for an intank pickup and float. Eh maybe not that complicated. Did he give you a quote for your?
 
nah, no clue.. when I start driving the rig come april/may, I'll shoot down there and have him take a peak...

I'm guessing mine to be about a grand.. it'll have a simple lower sump, one angle on top, some baffling, etc..
 
Heres another picture for my own personal reference. Im going to emulate this grill with the expanded steel and change the square lights to round.

3-jpg.660475
 
So I got a nice box from kert today. Goodies for all the projects lol. Got spring plates for the back of the truck and zero rates. I pushed my axle back an inch since Ive got no wheel well to shoot for anymore just to improve departure angle.

Not much to show picture wise though. It was fairly warm so I painted some **** up including the fuel cell straps for the shortbed.


Ive had these terrible thoughts in my head about re-doing my rear axle though. I kinda really want to make it a full floater. Ive always wanted to do it but when I built the thing I didnt have any tools to do a custom rear. Now Ive got the true bar. I was thinking of having brackets cut to bolt a dana 44 spindle to and running drive flanges with a double splined shaft, one side 19spl the other for the 8.8.
 
Well after getting it all installed and looking at it the zero rates are not going to be ran. Part of what I liked about these spring pads is how much contact they had to the spring and with the zero rate you lose that. But I did get U bolts and spring plates on, not that thats very exciting.





I apparently got a new shop helper lol. My landlords indoor cat escaped.




So I drew the fuel cell up in solidworks. Ive got a lot to learn lol. I drew the sump too and after fighting to try to assemble the two pieces for an hour I gave up because I basically decided this wedge shape wouldnt work offroad. Too much weight on the one point me thinks. The nice thing about solidworks is it will calculate the volume for you. This worked out to about 38 gallons.



Pretty sure I'm going to do a flat sump up front where the wedge was and make the tank extend under the bed towards the axle more. I was shooting for 40-50 gallons but 35-40gal should do it. Anything I ever actually need beyond that can be supplemented with jerry cans. Sitting here Im also wondering if an 8in tall cell could sneak in between the bottom of the frame rails and the axle at stuff if I built a subframe for it to live in. Could keep my COG down way better....



I also took some rough, but close measurements for the cab position again and figured my window height above the frame roughly. Looks like the bed will be 60in long and about 66in wide. Proportionally the truck should be exactly how I wanted it, an extended cab with a "stubby" bed off the back but not ridiculously short.
 
What are you going to do drive to Utah with out stopping :eek1:

I think the stock S-10 tanks may have been 20 if not 18, 40 is like Burb size.
 
So I started the new job yesterday, Saturday is an odd day to start working somewhere lol, and lost the only day that was suppose to be nice. Then I guess the storm held off so I really lucked out so me, the wife, and my buddy got to work today.

Tore the front end down.




I pick things up...



...and put them down :haha:










Its amazing how good an isuzu trooper frame fits a first gen s10 lol. Some things arent ideal. I may have to ditch the air conditioning and move to a smaller boost or hydroboost due to my shock towers. Im going to see if maybe I can pie cut them and pull them out further away from the frame. This should at least fix the issue on the booster.

Also the front cab mounts are about 16 miles away from the frame. Not sure what Im going to do there. Im considering building a body mount into rock sliders because other than that a bracket would be like 10-12inches out off the frame due to how early the taper started on the trooper frame.

Im pretty damn pumped though. The trucks proportions look great and the height is like exactly what I wanted.
 
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