Stomis
Professional Amateur
From what Ive read tonight none of the TDI models were mechanical injection. You can convert them with a custom pump though.
CK5
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Pzuzu The Isuzu Build (RIP)
- Thread starter Stomis
- Start date
From what Ive read tonight none of the TDI models were mechanical injection. You can convert them with a custom pump though.
Without too much work you could have 150 HP w/ a TDI engine - I have a 90 HP ALH engine, and it does fine for my car. For your truck, I'd definitely want to do some power upgrades. 150 HP would move your truck around pretty nicely.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Thats what Im thinking. Id really like to do the diesel. Its also looking more and more like the body is coming off to fit the engine.
I need to get a rear axle, and get my rear suspension done the get the body mounted. I will keep researching the TDI motor though.
Just a thought but what about those Isuzu 4 cyl diesels they use in their flat front box trucks? Guy put one in his K5 on here and there's a site somewhere around here that has all kinds of info about swapping them. Lots of parts support here for them.
that engine is a bit too big for his truck.
It's a 3.9 litre four banger, and I believe is too long for his engine bay.
Power would be great obviously.
It's a 3.9 litre four banger, and I believe is too long for his engine bay.
Power would be great obviously.
Hmmmm...swear I've seen a 350 in a Trooper before...
a 3.9 litre 4 banger is longer than a 5.7 V8.
True.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Yeah I dont want something super heavy either. Which obviously discounted the 6.2 also, besides the point that it would snap a toy trans in half. 
Im going to put a call into the company that does the volkswagen to toy trans adapter kit. They are apparently super helpful and have some other great pieces like a CS alternator kit for the diesel! Figure I might as well run GM accessories on it. I know it will make the power steering super easy.
I kinda weighed out my costs and the pluses and minuses some more and it looks like Im going to be going this route. I found a 70,000 mile TDI motor from a 96 model in way the **** upstate new york for $1100 that Im going to call about after my wedding.
I also found a place that has full mechanical conversion injection pumps for $300 instead of $800-$1200.
The other thing that this motor also gives me is less headaches with my steering box down the road. Ive been concerned with how high I have to mount my motor and possibly offsetting it. The shortness of the 4 banger should eliminate all those concerns.
Im going to put a call into the company that does the volkswagen to toy trans adapter kit. They are apparently super helpful and have some other great pieces like a CS alternator kit for the diesel! Figure I might as well run GM accessories on it. I know it will make the power steering super easy.
I kinda weighed out my costs and the pluses and minuses some more and it looks like Im going to be going this route. I found a 70,000 mile TDI motor from a 96 model in way the **** upstate new york for $1100 that Im going to call about after my wedding.
I also found a place that has full mechanical conversion injection pumps for $300 instead of $800-$1200.
The other thing that this motor also gives me is less headaches with my steering box down the road. Ive been concerned with how high I have to mount my motor and possibly offsetting it. The shortness of the 4 banger should eliminate all those concerns.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
After lots more research the TDI motor isnt worth the effort.
It costs $1200-$1500 PLUS 3 significant core charges to build a pump to run a TDI motor all mechanical properly.
The answer is for me to go with the earlier non intercooled 1.9 from a canadian car. Although Im gonna get stuck with paying $350 shipping there is a VW supplier that has numerous "AAZ"s, which is the full mechanical 1.9 Turbo Diesel engine, available. They are also quality pieces ranging from $2000-$2600 complete and all of them are below 100,000 miles, some as low as 50,000.
I figure that the bigger initial purchase price will save me a lot of headaches when it comes to buying/building pumps, rebuilding turbos, rebuilding engines blah blah blah.
The downside is this motor is only rated at 75hp and 114ftlbs. With the stock injection pump cranked up, a different fuel pin, boost turned up and an intercooler plumbed in I should be able to make 125hp/180ftlbs.
Thats without messing with injectors or any serious pump internals.
I could get more out of it with a built pump, not sure on price for that, and a bigger turbo.
It costs $1200-$1500 PLUS 3 significant core charges to build a pump to run a TDI motor all mechanical properly.
The answer is for me to go with the earlier non intercooled 1.9 from a canadian car. Although Im gonna get stuck with paying $350 shipping there is a VW supplier that has numerous "AAZ"s, which is the full mechanical 1.9 Turbo Diesel engine, available. They are also quality pieces ranging from $2000-$2600 complete and all of them are below 100,000 miles, some as low as 50,000.
I figure that the bigger initial purchase price will save me a lot of headaches when it comes to buying/building pumps, rebuilding turbos, rebuilding engines blah blah blah.
The downside is this motor is only rated at 75hp and 114ftlbs. With the stock injection pump cranked up, a different fuel pin, boost turned up and an intercooler plumbed in I should be able to make 125hp/180ftlbs.
Thats without messing with injectors or any serious pump internals.
I could get more out of it with a built pump, not sure on price for that, and a bigger turbo.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Well damn after reading some build ups of the full mechanical AAZ motor it looks like they top out at about 120 or 130 HP all in except a variable vane turbo...
Guess im back to the OM617 route
At least they are cheaper
Guess im back to the OM617 route
At least they are cheaper
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Got the panhard all done today and yesterday. Axle side brackets are home made. God does it take long to make stuff look nice w/o a cnc plasma...
Modified premade bracket. I cut the backbone off of it and trimmed a hole off the bottom.
Home made axle side. Design is a combination of height for clearing the pumpkin and length (out over the radius arm like that) to get the panhard the perfect length.
Pumpkin clearance at ride height. With the drivers side at stuff and passengers side at droop it doesnt even come close to the case. At least and inch.
And the overall setup.
It is a little bit tall but Im not worried. Little custom oil pan work, mount the motor a little high, it will be all good. The trooper has a ridiculous amount of extra space under the hood anyway and Im totally prepared to hacksooey the trans hump to flat belly this bitch
Ive got lots more work to do on the panhard mounts them self. The frame side one needs to be triangulated up the outside of the frame once i double check coil clearance. The axle one still needs to be boxed and spined both up the sides and down the face.
Since the mount is on the cast spring pad
I made a nice 5/16ths square piece of plate for an ass load of weld surface on the cast. I dont predict any issues. The bracket will/is made fully of 5/16ths plate. It will have tons of surface area on the axle housing and I plan on pre and post heating plus picking up a shipping blanket to cool the weld down super slow.
Coils were suppose to be here from napa today. Box arrived at work and I had an 18in long tie rod end. Got the "Damn it they mislabeled something at the warehouse" from them like its happened before and theyre over nighting the coils fo free so Ill have them for the weekend.
Modified premade bracket. I cut the backbone off of it and trimmed a hole off the bottom.
Home made axle side. Design is a combination of height for clearing the pumpkin and length (out over the radius arm like that) to get the panhard the perfect length.
Pumpkin clearance at ride height. With the drivers side at stuff and passengers side at droop it doesnt even come close to the case. At least and inch.
And the overall setup.
It is a little bit tall but Im not worried. Little custom oil pan work, mount the motor a little high, it will be all good. The trooper has a ridiculous amount of extra space under the hood anyway and Im totally prepared to hacksooey the trans hump to flat belly this bitch
Ive got lots more work to do on the panhard mounts them self. The frame side one needs to be triangulated up the outside of the frame once i double check coil clearance. The axle one still needs to be boxed and spined both up the sides and down the face.
Since the mount is on the cast spring pad
I made a nice 5/16ths square piece of plate for an ass load of weld surface on the cast. I dont predict any issues. The bracket will/is made fully of 5/16ths plate. It will have tons of surface area on the axle housing and I plan on pre and post heating plus picking up a shipping blanket to cool the weld down super slow.Coils were suppose to be here from napa today. Box arrived at work and I had an 18in long tie rod end. Got the "Damn it they mislabeled something at the warehouse" from them like its happened before and theyre over nighting the coils fo free so Ill have them for the weekend.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Got the coils in from napa today and found out the 4in measurement on bronco coils is by the inside diameter. What a stupid way to measure something when trying to fit it...
Although its tight everything fits luckily, somehow...
I dont think Ill make much progress this weekend. Wedding **** is starting to come up, 3 freaking weeks I cant believe it, and I need materials I cant get until monday.
I did mockup templates for my lower coil buckets once I found everything will fit though.
Spring hanging off upper bucket where its going to be.
Coil bucket template.
Tie in to the panhard bar mount for added strength. Really glad a found a way to get a brace on that thing from something not cast iron.
Some pics of things getting tight.
Panhard clearance.
Brace over the radius arm clearance.
The coil pad is going to be 3/8ths for beef. Rest of it will be 1/4 in.
Although its tight everything fits luckily, somehow...
I dont think Ill make much progress this weekend. Wedding **** is starting to come up, 3 freaking weeks I cant believe it, and I need materials I cant get until monday.
I did mockup templates for my lower coil buckets once I found everything will fit though.
Spring hanging off upper bucket where its going to be.
Coil bucket template.
Tie in to the panhard bar mount for added strength. Really glad a found a way to get a brace on that thing from something not cast iron.
Some pics of things getting tight.
Panhard clearance.
Brace over the radius arm clearance.
The coil pad is going to be 3/8ths for beef. Rest of it will be 1/4 in.
Huh...always thought the diameter was what they measured...weird. That measurement wouldn't take into account the thickness of the coil or anything.
Dumb.
Dumb.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Fantastic progress!
While them using the inside measurement is stupid, it doesn't surprise me in the least.
Good to see that you're adding bracing to your panhard mount. That will see a lot more force applied to it then you realize. I would actually plate the pumpkin side of the panhard mount. It will help a lot with keeping the mount from twisting any.
Good to see that you're adding bracing to your panhard mount. That will see a lot more force applied to it then you realize. I would actually plate the pumpkin side of the panhard mount. It will help a lot with keeping the mount from twisting any.
on your panhard mount brace, instead of the flat verticle piece do the triangles that are made from the flat piece
Stomis
Professional Amateur
O god you couldnt pay me to leave that panhard mount like that! Especially with how tall and offset it is to clear the radius arm.
My original plan was this.
Red is plating, Green is a spine coming down along the plating to the back of the pumpkin. Blue was going to be vertical spines front and back just for more weld surface, not sure if Ill be doing them.
And now as said the plating from the coil bucket. And as KGblazerfive pointed out it would be better to angle that small plate, which I will do.
EDIT: Just a little update. Im going to make me lower coil buckets flat and use some sort of isolator instead of cutting into the coil bucket to make it sit flat.
http://energysuspension.com/universal-products/shock-boots-coil-spring-isolators.html
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Didn't think you would leave it like that. I'd do the parts in red and green. The part in blue shouldn't be needed since you're tieing it into the coil bucket mount. If needed though the extra bracing can be added later on.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Been busy at work trying to wrap stuff up before I go to get married. Did decide one thing though. I know what wheels Im going to run.
Going to run 8 hole steelies with DIYBeadlocks.com stock rock rings like this.
Black wheels, tan ring to match the truck when I paint it. Gonna see if they can make the rings a little narrower though.
Going to run 8 hole steelies with DIYBeadlocks.com stock rock rings like this.
Black wheels, tan ring to match the truck when I paint it. Gonna see if they can make the rings a little narrower though.
