Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

[ryoken]

here it is out.... definitely "in the way", maybe a bit awkward looking too....

the lip and light mean it would have to be "padded" down off the ceiling to clear it.... that isn't horrible as i have to pad it on top or bottom, or a combo of both to add another inch to the loop height.... the next larger size is too tall...

the space is about 10 1/4" high.. the loop height is 9 1/4"... it would work, but you'll see in this second pic, it adds track sag... if i can make the space the actual loop height, the track will stay flush on the ceiling, and tray as it operates....



this is about how it will look.. tho it will be back a tad on entry/exit as it will move tighter against the back wall as the loop height is corrected.... you can also see the sag here, even just taped....

i'm gonna pad the tray up an inch when i add the inner wall, etc... i'd rather the wires exit an inch up in the tray, than an inch down off the ceiling.... need to actually cut the wall to show ya an "open" shot....

 

[ryoken]

oh, the other advantages of padding the tray up are that i only have to remove about 1/2 way down the back wall.. and on the aesthetic side, it will be that as the track is laying down in the tray, it will be flush with the sidewall and inner guide.... I'll taper the inner parts in a bit at the top on the belt sander.....




* Ryoken - ordering angled lug connectors in 45 and 90* for the first time eva *

 

[ryoken]

here's kinda how the wiring will run..... the track will actually never touch the backwall once it is padded and tracking properly.. it should be about an inch to 1/2 off it... also with the bend of the track, i feel i will be able to get an exit run out the left side upper wall...

solenoid pack will actually have the winch feeds go out the right rear corner to the rear..

the left wall will be for the light sub panel & posts...

started pulling some scraps for a bending jig... but i really think i'm gonna visit a lumber option, cut with the jigsaw, etc...... much quicker....



oh, and the plan is to do a good bit of custom clamping thruout.. with some standard SS band/rubber ones here and there... exploring McBible currently for interesting material options.... this is one of those times i wish i had a mill....






.

 

[ryoken]

oh, and i stand corrected in that first "out" pic... you could have that tray end, finish much closer to the backwall, thus not stick out as far.... i just don't like the idea of that much of the track being exposed, and subject to getting bashed by my clumsy arse....... plus, while i think it's all trick and whatnot, i think the somewhat hidden factor of it makes it cooler..

yeah, here's the dual bat setup........ click, slide, clunk, slide, click..... "hey, wait, what the fug was that link chit going on back there???!!!" kinda mentality....


of course my way is gonna require a ton of intricate alum labor, but.... we all know how i am....


sounds like i'm gonna have a busy january....

 

[ryoken]

proper loop height vs slack.......

 

[ryoken]

hmmmm,

https://www.mcmaster.com/1441t76

 

[ryoken]

just figured out a way to home "mill" some wire holddown's from alum with a drill press, bandsaw, flat file and shrink tube..... i already have some 3/4" thick stock kicking around to experiment.. tho i may want to spend $20 on some harder alum....... i think i want/need, 6 of them... 1 in the tray, and 5 on the ceiling....


just popped for a hundy worth of lugs, shrinktube and strain relief from Delcity...

 

[JDNobodi]

here it is out.... definitely "in the way", maybe a bit awkward looking too....

the lip and light mean it would have to be "padded" down off the ceiling to clear it.... that isn't horrible as i have to pad it on top or bottom, or a combo of both to add another inch to the loop height.... the next larger size is too tall...

the space is about 10 1/4" high.. the loop height is 9 1/4"... it would work, but you'll see in this second pic, it adds track sag... if i can make the space the actual loop height, the track will stay flush on the ceiling, and tray as it operates....



this is about how it will look.. tho it will be back a tad on entry/exit as it will move tighter against the back wall as the loop height is corrected.... you can also see the sag here, even just taped....

i'm gonna pad the tray up an inch when i add the inner wall, etc... i'd rather the wires exit an inch up in the tray, than an inch down off the ceiling.... need to actually cut the wall to show ya an "open" shot....

The bottom set up set is off to me. I think the bottom track should be as far forward in the tray as possible. The loop should be in the middle an the top even with the bottom.
As the drawer comes out, the loop starts taking up the drawer till it gets to the back of the drawer, and the top goes away into the loop.

 

[imiceman44]

The bottom set up set is off to me. I think the bottom track should be as far forward in the tray as possible. The loop should be in the middle an the top even with the bottom.
As the drawer comes out, the loop starts taking up the drawer till it gets to the back of the drawer, and the top goes away into the loop.

I wanted to say this but assumed Paul already tried it, but maybe not.

 

[ryoken]

keep in mind, the object here is to give myself as much room entering/exiting the track as possibly, especially in the tray.. no matter which position you put the track in that lower pic, it has to cut the back wall.. the back wall basically comes all the way out to the door..

the one advantage to moving the bottom of the track forward a foot or so is that more of it would be laying in the tray, as opposed to hanging out the back of the tray when open....

a big key to this is how tight i can realistically get the 1/0 to bend after the exit/entry clamping...

 

[ryoken]

so...


after @JDNobodi 's suggestion last night, i started retinkin my brain process...


I have the ceiling exiting as far forward as i felt comfortable with for wire bends...... i should be able to apply the same to the tray.. the whole left 3.5" are shot anyway, why I'm trying to sneak the extra space upfront?

the main reason for me liking the idea of moving it all forward is to make the track a bit more "stable" in its tracking, ceiling to floor pressure...... not as much will be "floating" behind the tray as it comes out...

and also what it does to the wall configs... i gain on the back wall, lose a bit on the left, but it's prolly a + wash.....



i need to find a comfortable, smooth 90* bend distance that will determine how far off the door/front tray, I can be... the tray, i don't mind flat exiting, than going to a hardmount 4 bundle to run back towards the back of the tray/switches...... but the ceiling, i want to maintain a 4 wide, flat mounting along the ceiling... thus the custom alum mounts... don't want that stickin down....



blue for where the loop would move to..... it will still hang out the back of the tray some/cut when fully opened......

 

[ryoken]

this is a more accurate rendition, since the bottom track will be raised....

 

[ryoken]

how the fug do i find these rabBit holes?????




tho.. i do have to admit, this whole idea was sumfin I came up with when I was first designing the bed..... ..... ...... I tried to ignore it.... but, ya know, it's like a sledge smackin ya in the back of your hotrod soul, that needs some itchin.....


* things that test your build perseverance * 101.....


I can say with 111% certainty, no one has done this in a vehicle..... eva..

that may be more telling, than I want to adMit...

 

[JDNobodi]

Well, sometimes you have try before you figure something is not going to work. One advantage you have is having the parts. You can experiment with different configurations. A bird in hand is better than two in the Bush. Use that duct tape, mount that track and start moving it in and out.

 

[ryoken]

Well, sometimes you have try before you figure something is not going to work. One advantage you have is having the parts. You can experiment with different configurations. A bird in hand is better than two in the Bush. Use that duct tape, mount that track and start moving it in and out.

yup... commited a couple hundy on a whim here in hopes I'm not backpedaling and hard-mounting it all....

I'll figure out exactly how much spacing i need at the bottom to correct the loop height... throw some ply scraps, etc in there, than remove the backwall as needed... tape/clamp the track in place, cycle, yada...

the other thing to keep in mind is that, I need to flat clamp the wires AFTER it exits the track... so the track will have 2 fasteners in that last link.. than immediately after I want to have the 2 bolt alum flat hold downs.. don't think i can do it in the link mount... whether they stay flat, or bundle after that isn't important... but I want to maintain the flat wires thru the track... so, that takes up another inch or so at each end....

 

[shady]

What I was thinking when I mentioned it with the roll out, was putting the top section as far to the back as you can. Then when it was rolled all the way out the track would barely come out of the opening.

Maybe it don't work that way .. just the way seeing it in my head

 

[ryoken]

What I was thinking when I mentioned it with the roll out, was putting the top section as far to the back as you can. Then when it was rolled all the way out the track would barely come out of the opening.

Maybe it don't work that way .. just the way seeing it in my head

i see what you are saying... i will do a mockup pic of that this weekend...

i'm still apt to have the loop in the box.. i think you will be surprised at how far out the loop will be and exit at the back of the tray when out.. from exit, to back of the loop is like 6" alone.... i would still also be loosing that whole left 3.5", as the track would lay in the tray when closed...


as i alluded to, at this point, everything revolves around what kind of wire bending/securing i come up with... i tinkin the cable setup/bending, securing, lugs, etc in this box will be the biggest challenge...



*Ryoken - just got done screamin at his bosses.... *

 

[shady]

They have 4 wide versions of these.

 

[ryoken]

They have 4 wide versions of these.

View attachment 321242

View attachment 321243

cool, thanks... yeah, i hadn't even looked yet, i've seen those Earls ones before... trick...

I think i want to try and make them.. won't be CNC badarse, but I think I can homebrew mill them better than anything i can buy, for this app...

i'm gonna use some small wire samples, and triple wall shrink to get a final diameter, 1/0 is like 5/8.. plus the padding/chafe... drill the holes, than cut off the bottom in the bandsaw and hand fill the bottoms...

 

[shady]

I was gonna suggest making them but didn't want to type out the method I'd use lol. Basically, a 1.5" square, or 1"x2" rectangle piece of Teflon or plastic about 6" long with holes drilled through, then sliced long ways .