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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

good to see your back at it cant wait for the snow to go away so i can get back to finishing mine up, although once its painted it will be going up for sale since i gained another at the end of november that i started a ground up restore on about 9 years ago
 
Well I have had to do everything else 3 times...why not this?

That gap opened nicely without the rear mount...looks a lot more even and under any other circumstance it might be good enough...but the rear end looks funny without the mount.

This weekend I will bust the welds loose on the quarter lip...I did such a good job grinding them flat I can't tell where they are now...that's not good...
 
The back of the door doesn't look square...the back edge almost looks curved top to bottom...
AND the body line on the quarter dropped too...
 
usually you can see em if you get a bit of it pryed up...

you should loosen all the bolts too... at that point you just have the fillet weld at the c post..

is the tailpain sitting on the frame?
 
usually you can see em if you get a bit of it pryed up...

you should loosen all the bolts too... at that point you just have the fillet weld at the c post..

You saying to cut the filet or leave it?

There's also all those welds at the B pillar inside...about 12 or 14 of them
 
If I could get that bottom to jut forward and get it welded on...it might be ok when I jack it up and put the body mount back under it?
 
I'd get everything you can loose, loose... even the tailpan to qrter bolts, not unbolted but loose....



how did all the bolting up go originally?

and where is the rear cab mount on that rig again?
 
I'd get everything you can loose, loose... even the tailpan to qrter bolts, not unbolted but loose....



how did all the bolting up go originally?

and where is the rear cab mount on that rig again?

There are mounts right in front of the wheel tubs...another set near the axle and then the rear most mounts

Best I remember there was a lot of using a swaging tool to get bolts to line up but I think that was because the aftermarket quarter just wasn't right in a lot of ways...I don't think the bolt holes were even spaced correctly to the tub
 
just got in from work 8:00pm CST...cold and raining...not doing anything tonight...wanted to go ahead a bust those welds loose...will have to wait...work got in the way.

I did get a weld cutting bit and a cordless drill with a nutdriver set...maybe it will help save my torn shoulder
 
Didn't really expect to hear from you tonight. I'm catching the edge of what you are getting, and I would not be out there working.

Of course, its either hang out here or watch what is on TV tonight................

Seriously, why a long speech about the state of the union. He could just walk up, say "screwed" and leave............
 
So I got the front outer welds in the jamb busted loos all the way to the top.

I loosened all the bolts.

I have not cut the filet welds yet, but I am not sure if I am going to need to yet.

I tightened down the bolt where the rear mount has been removed.

The bottom came forward about as far as it will go...I will need to press in on the quarter to get it where I need it in/out so it matches the door.

My question is what happens if I weld it into place and then undo the rear bolt and maybe even try to put the mount back in? Will it tear the metal loose or warp the panel?

Here are some pics...I will need to smooth that edge after it is in place.
 
Notice how tight the gap is between the quarter and the rocker...I can't get it any closer than that.
I do believe that the the front edge of that panel was not straight...I think it angled backwards the closer it got to the bottom...bad stamping
 
I am done today and will wait for further instruction before doing anything else. :whistle:
 
so the tailpan has been pulled down to the frame on that side?

that gap looks pretty decent... I'd burn it in in a few spots than unbolt the back and see what it does.. it may, or may not freak/buckle the qrter as the back comes back up.. it'll probably go 1/2 way back up on it's own once unbolted.. you may have to jack the tailpan a bit to get the last amount, and that is when you'll have to watch for buckling......

the last step will be doing all the qrter bolts once the welding and body mounts are sorted out..
 
so the tailpan has been pulled down to the frame on that side?

that gap looks pretty decent... I'd burn it in in a few spots than unbolt the back and see what it does.. it may, or may not freak/buckle the qrter as the back comes back up.. it'll probably go 1/2 way back up on it's own once unbolted.. you may have to jack the tailpan a bit to get the last amount, and that is when you'll have to watch for buckling......

the last step will be doing all the qrter bolts once the welding and body mounts are sorted out..


Yes the tailpan is hitting the top of the frame

Any need to do more...like cutting filet welds (i hope you say no) ... that gap looks about right and once I straighten it...smooth it with some hammering / filler I think I can live with it.
 
eh, same advice, burn the front, release, voodoo dance, etc...
 

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