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Stomis' 94 Street Truck - Snail Trail

Getting the wife and or kids involved is the ticket. My kids and fiancee love the truck. So, she looks the other way when it comes to spending and wrenching. Once they realize the fun its easy.

BTW Totally got shot down on the building a motor idea :doah: Wife said shed help if I needed but wasnt interested in learning squat... Then said she would prefer if I didnt spend all the money. So I guess Im just gonna heads/cam the motor I have and put the Throttle body holley injection on instead of the MPFI I was looking at for $1200 more...
 
got mine new off ebay . private listing left over from guys project still in box $90.00 less than every dealer listing . :D
 
Looks like I'll be doing a new 5 speed soon. Was driving down the road inn5th the other day and all of the sudden I could move the shifter all over the place and still be in gear. Took it out of gear and could only get it in 2nd and 4th. Nursed it home and had my fingers crossed the shifter came loose but after pulling the boot no such luck. Its either got a busted shifter or fork maybe. Either way I need a new one.
 
Scored a 75,000 mile nv3500 from a 2000 s10 today for $600. Has the tighter gear spread along with a shallower first. 3.5:1 should be way better than 4:1. Not really sure how far Im going to go before I get it in but I'll definitely be doing a new clutch since I ****ed my pressure plate up trying to get the trans on last time I changed it. Im just pulling the motor this time. I would like to do a 1350 aluminum driveshaft and shortthrow too but we'll see.

Going to do the firewall flat black while the motor is out also.
 
Ugh I just bought a nv3500 then other day... Let demon have it I gotta blow this thing up first. Thanks for remembering though!
 
Got lots of parts on order and the trans swap under way. Im going to add a little information to this thread to aid anyone on google looking to swap from a C/K style NV3500 to an s10 style nv3500 in the future since Im pretty much shooting in the dark with bits and pieces of info that sometimes are contradictory on the web...

Firstly as far as the project goes the old trans is out. I broke the shifter cup off the main shift rail. That was my failure. Im not sure if its secured with a dowel/roll pin (thats what it looks like from the top) or what the deal is but theres no catastrophic failure. The cup the shifter engages is simply rotating on the shift rail causing the shifter to float around all over the place. I could probably fix it with a couple good tac welds without taking anything apart but I'll let my buddy I borrowed it from decide its fate.

So when I decided to swap to an s10 trans I knew there were some differences between the two. Obviously as Ive stated the main reason for it was to A) go to a newer trans, which I could have done regardless and B) to go to a more "fast car" friendly gear set. So now Ive got that 3.49 first gear rather than 4.01 and 2.16 second rather than 2.32. Ive seen some dicey info that the s10 had a .85ish overdrive rather than the .73. Wikipedia and numerous web pages say they both share the same overdrive. Honestly I really dont care, ill drive it slower on the highway. So other than the gear difference theres also differences in output shaft spline, full size trans is 32 and the s10 is 27. No big deal and no downgrade in my eyes because if you can break the output shaft you'll pop something further up the line in the trans first anyway. Then theres shifter location. The s10 trans has the shifter 7in further back. I was dreading this being bad but once I laid it out on the floor of the truck Im really happy with it. The stick is going to come straight up in front of the bench right where you would think it should be or would be if you were driving a bench seat GTO, chevelle, or impala. I got to thinking the shifter was probably so far forward in the truck with the idea of being able to seat someone in the center of the bench and still shift, so **** that logic :haha:

Heres a picture of that layout on the floor.



And heres a comparative picture of the two transmission next to each other. The trans I had in my truck was an HM290. I borrowed it from a buddy when I got the truck because I broke the bellhousing of the early nv3500 that was in it.

2000 S10 NV3500 w/ internal slave cylinder vs C/K NV3500/HM290



The s10 trans also has a longer tail housing. Its about 3in longer than the C1500 trans so I'll need to have my driveshaft shortened. Im actually going to have an aluminum shaft made to the correct length and switch to 1350 U joints.



So thats that for the trans swap stuff. Im pulling the motor out and mating the trans to the motor on the hoist. I dont feel comfortable with the non removable bellhousing putting the trans up on my back and not ****ing up my new $350 Hayes street strip clutch. Plus its going to give me a chance to shoot the firewall flat black to clean things up. Ive got loads of stuff on order, a hurst short throw for the new trans, all AN fittings and hose to convert the clutch lines from that stupid cotter pin O ring lines to AN -4, Hayes Street Strip clutch, new hydraulic throwout and some other odds and ends.

Im also considering converting the accessories to a mid mount alternator and power steering pump because the gigantic 4.3 accessory brackets are just ridiculously big. Once this stuff is done in the next couple weekends Im going to put the Cclip eliminator kit on my rear and the new cover and then set my sites on getting the holley fuel injection and redoing the top end with 190 AFR vortecs and hydro roller and 11:1 compression.


O and PS: Heres the reason why you dont use flexplate bolts with a flywheel. Im afraid of what else Im going to find from the PO now...




My flywheels was basically held on by nothing. 4/6 bolts broke free with little to no effort. I had to retap all the holes in the crank...
 
Got a snow day today over 6". People are retarded but regardless I got an extra day to work on the truck. Almost everything is pulled to take the motor out.

Firstly I plowed in front of my garage with the 98 Buick Jew Canoe beater car. :D





Started by setting up my hydro throwout bearing and clutch master with the russel AN adapters and speedway remote bleeder. WTF was GM thinking with those rollpin O ring connectors...



Then I moved onto filling in the older shifter hole and cutting the new one. Old shifter hole? What old shifter hole. Plug welded the patch. Seam sealed both sides.

Inside



Underneath, as you can see I cleaned up and undercoated where the trans will be in the way later on.



Shot from the drivers seat to give you an idea of where the shifter is moving to.



Heres the boot I'll be using.

huu-1147494.jpg



Made a last minute run to the local driveshaft place to the tune of $217. New 27 spline 1350 slip yoke, new style 1350 10bolt yoke and two non-greasable 1350s.

Painted up




Looks like Im going to have that shop make my aluminum driveshaft to the tune of $450. They make really nice shafts. Only issue Ive ever had with the is length based on them making a shaft measured off the tail housing. Now that I have yokes I can measure myself. Tomorrow I go to pickup my cut flywheel and street strip clutch. Hopefully the motor will be out and back in before I call it quits.
 
Well huge props to the wife this weekend. Between fridays snowday and a long day yesterday and few hours today the motor came out, firewall got painted, new trans went on the motor with the cut flywheel, new clutch and it all went back in!


How its sitting at the end of the day, its all bolted up. Hoist is just sitting there.




I love it when a plan comes together. The shifter location is perfect. I didnt even need to tweak the stick.



1st Gear



2nd gear, about 2-3 inches off the seat.




Surprisingly the trans crossmember bolts right up in existing frame holes. Im guessing they were there for an auto. I didnt have to drill a single thing...

Couple more hurdles to overcome though. Obviously hook everything for the motor up. I measured for an aluminum driveshaft to be made so thats going to get ordered tomorrow. My crossover pipe to bring the driver side exhaust over to the passenger side before the gas tank is doubtfully going to work. Also the later trans has a different speedo sensor connector on it and the old one wont work in the new trans so Im going to have to go to the junkyard to clip one off an S10 this weekend.

Moving along though. Next thing is fuel injection, although I would love to do the FI and the entire top end at once...
 
That's going to be a fun ride! That Hurst short throw will make it feel like race car
 
Ordered my driveshaft. Went with a steel one. Guy basically talked me out of it on the phone. Longevity and price. Mostly price though lol.


Ordered a summit DIY dual exhaust kit to run the exhaust all the way out back and my shifter boot.
 
Nothing wrong with the steel driveshaft I have a 5 inch heavy wall. one piece in my super duty. Super tough.
 
Im ready to tear my hair out with this thing... First the new clutch wouldnt disengage. Upgraded to a 7/8s master from a F350 to get me more throw. Do a nice factory looking install, make new pain in the ass clutch line. Make an adjustable clutch rod. Put it in, adjust the rod clutch disengages perfectly. Throw the hood on and go for a ride. Any more than a slight amount of gas and the clutch just slips to holy hell.

Stick the boroscope in the bell and look at the throwout actuating the clutch. Looks fine but doesnt seem like the pressure plate is returning the slave far enough...

Dont know if Ive got a defective pressure plate, if a standard mechanical SBC clutch just isnt compatible with the internal slave nv3500, idk. So disgusted. Now Im gonna drop the trans again...
 

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