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Stomis' 94 Street Truck - Snail Trail

Overview Gallery Discussion
shady said:
definitely needs a little lower front. maybe drop spindles... they're getting cheaper all the time
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I thought about it but the only way I can get non airbag tubular control arms for this truck is to get the drop built into them. So I might as well cover that base at the same time.


Deuling said:
Looks fine to me.
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Its odd looking to me. If its too low Im going to delete the front valence or trim it down. I dont like how much gap there is in the fender in the front compared to the back. I would prefer for them to be even. 2 more inches of drop in the front should make it even.
 
2 more inches of drop in the front should make it even.[/quote]

Just put a big block in it and be done with it!:D
 
is there a certain reason you want the tubular A arms? just wondering... they better handling or something
 
I want the tubulars mostly because my arms are nasty. The new ones come with corrected geometry for the drop if I remember correctly. So you get 3in lower but the travel vs bump stops is like stock. Plus they've got poly bushings, powder coated, and new ball joints. Its really not worth my time to redo stockers IMO. Its not like they're $2000.


Get out of here with that Scott! I've been on the fence since I got the thing about doing a big old big block down the road but I've pretty much settled on a at home rebuilt 5.3 with ported heads, z06 or boost can, edelbrock 90mm intake and a single t70. Should be good for about 650rwhp on 93 at like 14psi.

The nice thing about doing a single turbo and t70, which is somewhat small, is that down the road if I do a crazy 383 build in a 5.3 block or go to a 6.0 I can pick up another t70 and run twins.
 
What's a t70? Make and size? I've never heard of that turbo.


......... The 454 in my z28 is for sale........ LoL.
 
After some more research I'm going to use a precision 7675. The 70 number is just the size nomenclature for the inducer wheel on an aftermarket turbo. I'm pretty wet behind the ears with turbos but I believe that's correct... Lol
 
Ya you definately size by compressor inducer. But the number could have been a model. That's why I asked. Like my k31 has a 71mm. The hx55 is a 66mm. And the gt47 is an 80mm
 
Right. I could probably run an hx to save some money. The 7675 is a 76mm inducer and 75mm exducer and is suppose to spool very well. Its $1600 though.
 
Exducer is the outside diameter of the wheel. It could not be 75 mm. That's more likely the turbine wheel inducer.

You can definately spend big bucks on turbos. I personally don't. But it's very possible. All 3 of the turbos I mentioned before are in my garage right now. And I probably spent right in the neighbourhood of $1600 total for all of them.
 
This is a billet wheel I've picked up for my GT4708. The inducer is the smaller measurement at the top. The exducer is the larger measurement at the bottom. With the housing on you can only ever see the inducer.


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393696586.637187.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393696586.637187.jpg
 
You can kinda see how it's physically impossible for the exducer to be smaller than the inducer. What's a real pain is that every single turbo manufacturer labels their turbos differently. There is no standard. Like Garrett uses A/R (air ratios) to describe their turbo housings. Holset does not. Holset uses cubic centemeters cubed. CM3 to describe their housings, by volume not ratio of compressor to turbine.


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393696679.152810.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393696679.152810.jpg
 
Ahhh OK I got you. Its basically what the turbine tapers out to. Thanks. Know any good read ups for a turbo noob? Its all fine and good to read or just go off what everyone else is using but I would like to actually learn the theory...
 
Ah if you go to Garrett's actual web site. Navigate around there for a bit. I recall there was a few pretty decent articles there.
 
Not much on this front. Been really busy looking for houses in VA. Going down again on saturday to look at a 55k foreclosure on 4 acres with a decent sized shop that looks promising.


I have been searching for a decent 5.3 to rebuild. I also figured I would throw $20 at the 355 in it and hook up a pcv valve.


I did swap out the tach from this ridiculous thing the P/O had.

51HfkriJS2L.jpg



To this.

AUT2309_500.jpg



Much better :D


Ive also been further researching and budgeting my 5.3 en-devour with the hopeful house buying plans...

So far Ive got:

5.3, fresh home ball hone job, rering with top ring gap opened, fresh bearings and gaskets. $400 - $700

Chevy performance LS9 cam $150

Edelbrock Pro Flo XT EFI intake and 90mm throttle body $700

Gasket match heads to intake and a little at home port job. Fresh valve job and seals. $200

Holley ECU and harness $1200

GT45 Ebay turbo $300

And of course intercooler and piping.




Ive also been mulling over just tossing the 5.3 in there with no turbo just to get it gen 3 swapped sooner.
 
Probably a good idea. $3500+ for hp you don't need seems like a bad idea if your looking at houses.
 
Well I got the house in contract now. That puts the ax on the turbo plans for good for quite a while. New plans are to make it a nice, fast but not ridiculous DD. Im gonna need it when I move because I'll be driving at least 30mins each way wherever I land a job. I also didnt want to do the stock motor with a turbo on top thing. I want to rebuild the motor and know Ive got a fresh mill. Plus I would pigeon toe myself into a trans upgrade too...


So Im going to do a 5.3 with a stock harness stripped and ECU reflashed and tuned. I decided against the holley stuff, at least for now, simply because its $1600 when I repriced it. The 5.3 Im picking up is $600 for a 128k running, tested motor with accessories, harness, and ECU. Im going to punch it, run 4.8 flat tops and milled heads for 11:1, and do a texas speed CNC head and torquer v3 cam package. 4.8 flywheel with the nv3500 and a different clutch that works properly...

The combo is suppose to be very driveable and good for 450 on the wheels.
 
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