Stomis
Professional Amateur
Well the truck just earned a name. Spit the pump seal out of the transmission pulling into the trans shop to help my buddy work on his mustang. Gentlemen and gentlemen I give you, Snail Trail
CK5
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Stomis' 94 Street Truck - Snail Trail
- Thread starter Stomis
- Start date
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Pulled the trans for the like 7th or 8th time in this truck. I got scolded by my friends at the trans shop for only having 1 dowel pin in the motor... Looks like the converters going to have to have a new snout put on it too...
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Got it back together. I think I might need to brush up on my mechanic skills... been welding and fabricating for too long starting to slip lol.
Laundry list of things that were wrong or I ****ed when I put the auto in.
1) missing dowel pin
2) converter not fully seated - took me and my friend that r&r's trans' for a living 10 mins of playing with it to get it to go in.
3) Left the pilot bushing in which may or may not have put pressure on my converter pilot
4) When I got a new hub put on my converter the extremely knowledgable guy informed me it appeared the hub was put on my converter out of round. He said he cant say for sure it was or wasnt made that way but I really doubt it got bent..
So egg on my face... Im glad this only cost me $300 to fix instead of probably $1000 if I didnt know people. Trans needed a new pump and the converter had to be cut open,flushed, and a new hub welded on. O and the converter guy basically told me in so many words that I got boned on my intake for converter trade. Ive got a roughly $600 converter in my truck thats good to around 600hp and a plain jane single disc lockup that he strongly recommends I dont use other than cruising. Looks like Ill be spending coin on a tripple disc next spring...
But the truck feels faster, shifts WAY better now, and the converter drives much nicer.
Laundry list of things that were wrong or I ****ed when I put the auto in.
1) missing dowel pin
2) converter not fully seated - took me and my friend that r&r's trans' for a living 10 mins of playing with it to get it to go in.
3) Left the pilot bushing in which may or may not have put pressure on my converter pilot
4) When I got a new hub put on my converter the extremely knowledgable guy informed me it appeared the hub was put on my converter out of round. He said he cant say for sure it was or wasnt made that way but I really doubt it got bent..
So egg on my face... Im glad this only cost me $300 to fix instead of probably $1000 if I didnt know people. Trans needed a new pump and the converter had to be cut open,flushed, and a new hub welded on. O and the converter guy basically told me in so many words that I got boned on my intake for converter trade. Ive got a roughly $600 converter in my truck thats good to around 600hp and a plain jane single disc lockup that he strongly recommends I dont use other than cruising. Looks like Ill be spending coin on a tripple disc next spring...
But the truck feels faster, shifts WAY better now, and the converter drives much nicer.
Hey your honest and human! We all make mistakes.....
Running 4l60E?
I ask cause I do have a new never ran Yank stall sitting in my garage for a 4l60E/LS combo.
Running 4l60E?
I ask cause I do have a new never ran Yank stall sitting in my garage for a 4l60E/LS combo.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Put some miles on the thing yesterday before I hall it down to Virginia. Everything seems good now. God damn its loud...
Truck is looking good, looks like its ready! You ever make it to the dragstrip? Season is pretty much over now it seams.
Did you try the Tbrake without the 2step to see what it stalled at?
Congrats on your own shop, hope you like it and it works for you.
You can have the Holley ECU turn on the 2nd fuel pump.
Sounds like you learned a lot with the auto install. Could of been worse, I know someone who just ran manuals and the first auto they installed they tried to bolt the trans up with the converter already bolted to the flexplate like a clutch.
Did you try the Tbrake without the 2step to see what it stalled at?
Congrats on your own shop, hope you like it and it works for you.
You can have the Holley ECU turn on the 2nd fuel pump.
Sounds like you learned a lot with the auto install. Could of been worse, I know someone who just ran manuals and the first auto they installed they tried to bolt the trans up with the converter already bolted to the flexplate like a clutch.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Truck is looking good, looks like its ready! You ever make it to the dragstrip? Season is pretty much over now it seams.
Did you try the Tbrake without the 2step to see what it stalled at?
Congrats on your own shop, hope you like it and it works for you.
You can have the Holley ECU turn on the 2nd fuel pump.
Sounds like you learned a lot with the auto install. Could of been worse, I know someone who just ran manuals and the first auto they installed they tried to bolt the trans up with the converter already bolted to the flexplate like a clutch.
No never made it to the track. I'm kinda minding a budget with the move and the work situation being up in the air. I'm sorta pessimistic about the current situation working out TBH. I don't think the turbos going to make it on this winter. In fact I'm considering using the tube I have for the S10 since it's only .095 wall and not .120 like it's suppose to be. Probably run it NA next year and once I'm a little more financially stable do the turbo build. I don't want to take it apart and not have something to put my name on at the track next year.
It stalls right around 3600, maybe a tad more.
I know I can use the Holley for the 2nd pump but honestly it's so easy to turn it on standalone I'd rather save my input/outputs for boost control and more important stuff I want the ecu to run.
Live an learn on the auto swap lol
https://www.holley.com/products/exh...ust_manifolds/exhaust_manifolds/parts/8510HKR
It’s too bad your sbc this makes the turbo thing easy and pretty cheap still. At $449... almost a waste of time to fab your own stuff, I don’t know of a quality manifold for that price on a small block..
It’s too bad your sbc this makes the turbo thing easy and pretty cheap still. At $449... almost a waste of time to fab your own stuff, I don’t know of a quality manifold for that price on a small block..
You guys are giving me bad ideas...
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Sbc? This truck has a 5.3 in it. Plumbing isnt the expensive part. It's the $1500ish dollar air to water intercooler I'm planning on using.
I know I missed something I went back to check and all the pics are bork of course.. we’ll start savin!
After all the time you spent cutting weight I would be shocked if you bolted iron manifolds up. I've never seen one that performs as well as a header and even though its a turbo manifold and would still make power, I hate the way all the primaries enter at different points before its large enough, restrictive. Those look like they are for lower power stock engine turbo setups.
Is this going to be drag truck only? You adding another radiator to keep the water cool or just planning on adding ice at the track? Unless its drag truck only I'd do air to air for the simplicity, easier use, and weight savings vs air to water to air. My brother put on air to water because he got it used and it works, but its a PITA to need ice every single pass. He plans to take it off for air to air since its a street truck.
The truck is looking really good, nice work, I want to see some timeslips!
And I agree with others, fiberglass work makes me itch just looking at it.
Is this going to be drag truck only? You adding another radiator to keep the water cool or just planning on adding ice at the track? Unless its drag truck only I'd do air to air for the simplicity, easier use, and weight savings vs air to water to air. My brother put on air to water because he got it used and it works, but its a PITA to need ice every single pass. He plans to take it off for air to air since its a street truck.
The truck is looking really good, nice work, I want to see some timeslips!
And I agree with others, fiberglass work makes me itch just looking at it.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
After all the time you spent cutting weight I would be shocked if you bolted iron manifolds up. I've never seen one that performs as well as a header and even though its a turbo manifold and would still make power, I hate the way all the primaries enter at different points before its large enough, restrictive. Those look like they are for lower power stock engine turbo setups.
Is this going to be drag truck only? You adding another radiator to keep the water cool or just planning on adding ice at the track? Unless its drag truck only I'd do air to air for the simplicity, easier use, and weight savings vs air to water to air. My brother put on air to water because he got it used and it works, but its a PITA to need ice every single pass. He plans to take it off for air to air since its a street truck.
The truck is looking really good, nice work, I want to see some timeslips!
And I agree with others, fiberglass work makes me itch just looking at it.
I have the Hiram and loads of room underhood so I've always lusted after a shearer intercooler. Plus I love the idea of dumping the turbo right into the throttle body. I really don't want to rework my rad/trans cooler for a front mount either.
I've also read that a non radiated air to water still cools better than air to air, but not that far into it. I plan on doing a tank and probably a small radiator for it under the bed.
As far as manifolds go I was going to put vbands on some stickers and point them forward, it just works. And it works really well like all the way to 1500+ hp. That being said with how low I mounted the motor I think I'm gonna wind up doing up and forwards.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Well stuff is on it way for this thing. After hitting a track rental up in jersey with my buddys mustang I have a huge desire to get this thing on the track next year, and fast. I doubt an intercooler will make it on but after seeing him go from a 11.98 off the trailer to a 9.80 on 14psi and 7psi launch at the end of the day Im kinda itching.
I ordered cheapy ebay tight to the block shorty headers. Im either going to mount the motor so theyll fit forward or rework the collector. I need to remount the motor anyway to make it solid so I figure I can clear up my UCA mount to header issues from mounting it so low while Im there. Other than the turbo and eventual intercooler everything will be budget. I ordered a BOV and 2 wastegates from VS racing, a t4 flange with mounting holes, the cheapy headers and 4 v bands. I already have the 2-1/4 exhaust kit laying around to do the hot side. My goal is forward facing with the inlet on the turbo stuck right through the current ram air box. It will be hot air for now, probably with water/meth to combat IATs and give me a saftey net with octane. If I can manage to get some money out of my trickflows I may get lucky and wind up intercooled.
A lot of work ahead of me though. The motor needs to come out, pistons pulled and top rings opened up. I need to check the bottom end over and add a return for the turbo drain to the pan. Switch heads to the bigger chamber super ported early ls6 heads I have.
And Im still planning on having the s10 truggy done before late spring O.o
I ordered cheapy ebay tight to the block shorty headers. Im either going to mount the motor so theyll fit forward or rework the collector. I need to remount the motor anyway to make it solid so I figure I can clear up my UCA mount to header issues from mounting it so low while Im there. Other than the turbo and eventual intercooler everything will be budget. I ordered a BOV and 2 wastegates from VS racing, a t4 flange with mounting holes, the cheapy headers and 4 v bands. I already have the 2-1/4 exhaust kit laying around to do the hot side. My goal is forward facing with the inlet on the turbo stuck right through the current ram air box. It will be hot air for now, probably with water/meth to combat IATs and give me a saftey net with octane. If I can manage to get some money out of my trickflows I may get lucky and wind up intercooled.
A lot of work ahead of me though. The motor needs to come out, pistons pulled and top rings opened up. I need to check the bottom end over and add a return for the turbo drain to the pan. Switch heads to the bigger chamber super ported early ls6 heads I have.
And Im still planning on having the s10 truggy done before late spring O.o
Sounds like you got the bug without even taking it to the track yet...
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Sounds like you got the bug without even taking it to the track yet...
Yeah pretty much. Ive also decided Im going to make my hiram intercooler myself. I can do it for about $900 cheaper than a shearer. It wont be fancy CNC'd flanges, Im going to build it on a holley machinable hiram lid and cap the top with a sheetmetal intake. Should be a fun different project for me.
Meth/water works good as long as you don’t sit idling for an hour before the run.. me thinks carrying a bottle of c02 to blow cold air on the intake between runs will be fine. Also running the air to water cooler with an electric pump and large reservoir somewhere I’d think it would be fine as long as you don’t hot lap it.
Whats the specs on the s475? Hopefully soon I can start ordering turbo stuff for my s10 build, been looking at the billet vsracing 80mm 83x75.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Well with the prospect of building the A2W for the hiram myself it will hopefully happen all at once. Ive also read that running the A2W pump on a boost reference switch makes a huge difference in intake temps. You turn it on when it hits 1 PSI so your not just churning the water making it hot all the time.
Im not super turbo literate. Its a stock 75mm cold side but its got a t4 housing on the exhaust which is suppose to be a huge improvement in fitment and spool time. My buddy took it off to switch to twin vsracing turbos and theyre working great. They stuff is so much smaller than the OEM spec turbo options.
