Why are you redoing the motor mounts on that thing? It looks like it has both mount holes and it should just bolt right in like a factory small block or big block. You just use metric bolts into the block instead of 3/8".
CK5
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Zeus
- Thread starter Zeus33rd
- Start date
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
It looks like the crossmember isn't there.
Yeah I see that but I was assuming he still had the two little frame brackets that actually hold the motor mounts that the crossmember bolts too. Even if he is making a new crossmember the motor would still bolt in with those two brackets.
I guess that TNA crossmember replaces those as well, where the ORD crossmember does not replace those. I made my crossmember, but still used those brackets.
I guess that TNA crossmember replaces those as well, where the ORD crossmember does not replace those. I made my crossmember, but still used those brackets.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
True
8.1 oil pan won't clear stock crossmember. And I didn't like the ORD one
And I can't stand the stupid clamshell motor mounts.
Pulled 8.1 out again and stuck it back on the stand. While I have the frame exposed and easily accessible, I'm going to rework my steering box mount, and reinforce/brace/fix the frame from the spring hangers forward. Might box in some of it. So nice to have clean, smooth steel to work with.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
I call SHENANIGANS!!! These frames were never, ever that clean!
One thing I have become fond of doing is ditching that ugly huge crossmember that splits the steering box bolts I hate that thing. Pretty easy to make a clean crossmember up there.
The only reason I do it usually is to box that part of the frame in so steering box cracks are gone forever
The only reason I do it usually is to box that part of the frame in so steering box cracks are gone forever
Like this
My steering box is relocated about 4-5" down from the factory location, to bring the drag ling angle down to the best angle possible. (8" front springs make for a lot of work to make it comfortable to drive.) That fixed a bunch of things, bump steer for example. I am only re-using one of original holes on the frame, to locate the box in more or less the proper place. I had fabbed up a mount for it, hanging below the original, but I didn't do it right, which lead to more frame cracks and rushed fixes etc. So I want to fix it properly and permanently, like you mentioned. But I'm going to leave the big ugly one on there. If steering box was still in factory spot, I'd probably do what you said and/or somthing similar to those pictures. But, as it is now, it makes a handy spot for the brake valve, hard lines and a place to mount other little things.
I've got a vague concept of what I want to do to it, just need to go out there, elevate my perspective a bit...
and stare at it for a while longer. One thing for sure, it won't look anything like it does now. I'm on a mission to eliminate frame rivits. I hate those stupid things with a passion. 
I've got a vague concept of what I want to do to it, just need to go out there, elevate my perspective a bit...
and stare at it for a while longer. One thing for sure, it won't look anything like it does now. I'm on a mission to eliminate frame rivits. I hate those stupid things with a passion.
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I didn't realize you had dropped the box man. Good solution. On that frame the box was actually raised and moved forward.
Looking forward to seeing what ya do man
Looking forward to seeing what ya do man
I spent most of today re-working stuff I did years ago. I did a lot of shaking my head and wondering what the hell I was thinking back then. Went through 5 cut off discs, 2 grinding wheels and one flap disc. I forgot how much I love having black boogers. 
Anyways, this is as far as I got. I still need to work up mounts for the bottom two holes on the steering box, and re-drill the uppermost hole. Only one of the original mounting holes in the frame is used. Box mounted 4-5" below stock position, to correct drag link angle.
I'm going to box the frame from the motor mounts forward. Will probably end up welding the stock mounting plates in place, and box the frame using those as a start point.
Still need to finish up inside the frame rails.
Anyways, this is as far as I got. I still need to work up mounts for the bottom two holes on the steering box, and re-drill the uppermost hole. Only one of the original mounting holes in the frame is used. Box mounted 4-5" below stock position, to correct drag link angle.
I'm going to box the frame from the motor mounts forward. Will probably end up welding the stock mounting plates in place, and box the frame using those as a start point.
Still need to finish up inside the frame rails.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Interesting approach! I like it!
Nice! Glad to see you're getting back into it!
Got a lot done today. I'm finally at a point where I'm 98% happy with the frame area around the steering box and the front cross-member. A few small gussets here and there maybe. Now, I can FINALLY get along with fitting the 8.1 and working up mounts and engine cross-member.
Pictures-
I had a few pieces of drop from a cnc plasma table, there were a few nice radius's among all the cuts, so I used them for frame gussets and braces. Trim, cut, tack, clamp...bash with big hammer, tack, repeat.
Pile-o-scrap-
Me-
I'll be blowing black boogers for the next 2 or 3 days. :O
Pictures-
I had a few pieces of drop from a cnc plasma table, there were a few nice radius's among all the cuts, so I used them for frame gussets and braces. Trim, cut, tack, clamp...bash with big hammer, tack, repeat.
Pile-o-scrap-
Me-
I'll be blowing black boogers for the next 2 or 3 days. :O
Very nice Joe! I'm excited to finally see your fab skills, It looks like you never skipped a beat!
Lookin good, I don't think your steering box is going anywhere [emoji106]
Thank you for the good words. I certainly hope the box doesnt go anywhere, I hate dealing with **** like that.
I have some ideas about a way to capture the box in place, so that it can't rotate or move around do to bolt hole slop or whatever. Some tabs tacked or bolted around the mounting ears on the box, so that it can't slide around on the frame. Torsional stuff should be good to go now...although I've learned to never misjudge the amount of force those boxes can exert on a frame.
Should be mostly over kill with the engine crossmember in there too.
What are you going to do with that ORD brace?
Martin
Martin
