Oh?
CK5
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Double check the fuel line configuration. IIRC the feed and return should be on opposite sides (passenger vs driver sides).
I just looked at the directions and they've completely redone them.
Well, it runs.
Not finished though. I have one minor fuel leak, and the distributor was off a tooth, pulled and dropped it back in the right spot, runs way better already. Still have to run the wiring through the firewall.
Not finished though. I have one minor fuel leak, and the distributor was off a tooth, pulled and dropped it back in the right spot, runs way better already. Still have to run the wiring through the firewall.
So...
Speculation at best...
But I found a section of rubber fuel line less than a foot long with a crack in it between the tanks and mechanical fuel pump. It was definitely cracked through, although it wouldn't leak or evaporated fast enough that I never noticed...
Makes sense though because it would take forever to start, as if there was air in the system, and if I could keep it alive, I would have to constantly pefal it...
I think that the pump found it easier to draw in air than fuel, and thus the poor driveability.
It doesn't explain the super high fuel consumption though.
What's you IAC steps at? TPS?
I dont know. I was running out of time last night, got it running by attaching the ignition wire to battery and then had to deal with the distributor being a tooth off.
I basically let it get hot enough to check for coolant leaks and to make sure the fans came on like they should, then went to bed.
I'm hoping that I will have more time before next weekend to dig farther into it, finish running the wiring into the cab, fix my fuel dribble (which is actually on the return side...), get a 5/16" air cleaner stud, see if the tall filter will still work with hood clearance, etc., etc.
I basically let it get hot enough to check for coolant leaks and to make sure the fans came on like they should, then went to bed.
I'm hoping that I will have more time before next weekend to dig farther into it, finish running the wiring into the cab, fix my fuel dribble (which is actually on the return side...), get a 5/16" air cleaner stud, see if the tall filter will still work with hood clearance, etc., etc.
Next time you get it to temp look at the IAC steps. That's the first adjustment that needs to be done to set a baseline tune. I'm assuming you've already set the parameters which include engine size, target AFR, idle speed etc.
handloader90
Building!
**** yes!
handloader90
Building!
If you wanna keep those hubs on I have 24 bolt Humvee beadlocks that you can have for free. Just need some 16.5" tars.
handloader90
Building!
You can.
How much of the 14bFF will be left? I'm doing some looking and it might fit better for my 66 C20.
First off, nice work on the Fitech.
Second, save that 14bff. Jeep guys love to run those c&c 14bolts. They literally bold up under a factory set up TJ/XJ and keep the same track width.
Second, save that 14bff. Jeep guys love to run those c&c 14bolts. They literally bold up under a factory set up TJ/XJ and keep the same track width.
Oh great, now you just drove the price up!
Let me put it this way. I have the same axle. I was told by some jeep guys that they like to use them. Not sure what the market is, as I never had anyone bite on it.
Lol, I'm done here for now.
Before I get......"the stick"....
Before I get......"the stick"....
