I'm running them with springs. I guess I might be going against the rules; it's been so long ago I don't remember if that was a no-no or not.
CK5
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I gave moving the truck the old college try this morning. A buddy came over and helped out. It didn't work out for us. We couldn't really get the truck to move.
This was our configuration:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-Ton-Low-Profile-Rapid-Pump-Floor-Jack-56617.html
Since only one wheel set on the jack has casters, we basically tried turning the floor jack under load so that it was angled in the direction we wanted to go. That worked out fine, but then when we pushed on the nose of the truck it wouldn't budge. It tipped from side to side on the jack instead of actually rolling the jack anywhere.
I think the garage floor slant might have hurt us a bit because we were literally attempting to push it "uphill". It's only a few degrees of slant but still figure it was working against us. Having two jacks would have been nice because the truck wouldn't be able to tip as much. My buddy's jack is out of commission right now but once he gets that fixed up we will likely try again.
If anyone has tips or anything let me know. Worst case scenario I figure that I can do the entire passenger side, then reassemble everything and physically drive the truck into a new position. Then I can do the driver's side.
This was our configuration:
- Driver's side rear wheel was chocked off so that wheel couldn't roll backward.
- Parking brake was off, obviously.
- Can't recall whether the truck was in gear or was in neutral... I guess I should have checked that.
- Single floor jack positioned at the center of the front axle.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-Ton-Low-Profile-Rapid-Pump-Floor-Jack-56617.html
Since only one wheel set on the jack has casters, we basically tried turning the floor jack under load so that it was angled in the direction we wanted to go. That worked out fine, but then when we pushed on the nose of the truck it wouldn't budge. It tipped from side to side on the jack instead of actually rolling the jack anywhere.
I think the garage floor slant might have hurt us a bit because we were literally attempting to push it "uphill". It's only a few degrees of slant but still figure it was working against us. Having two jacks would have been nice because the truck wouldn't be able to tip as much. My buddy's jack is out of commission right now but once he gets that fixed up we will likely try again.
If anyone has tips or anything let me know. Worst case scenario I figure that I can do the entire passenger side, then reassemble everything and physically drive the truck into a new position. Then I can do the driver's side.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
One guy pushing and you got to pull on the jack handle to move it.
It will be heavy and it will be work. But it will move. being in Neutral helps.
It will be heavy and it will be work. But it will move. being in Neutral helps.
Swearing.
Lots of swearing.
Lots of swearing.
A come along or even a ratchet strap attached to another vehicle parked beside it and pull from the floor jack or as low as possible . As far as getting it back over maybe the gravity you mentioned would help. If you still want to try again today I can load up my floor jack and a come along.
I used to move vehicles by myself even up a steep driveway with only a 3ton floor jack.
Position the jack handle on the opposite side of where you want to move, lift off the ground, and then swivel the handle to the other side, drop down rinse and repeat. It moves only a few inches each time but it will go uphill and it can be done quickly. Only lift a few inches off the ground to take less time
Thanks Ron! I will probably give it another go this evening around 8 after eating dinner. I don't expect you to be available at that time but if you happen to be let me know. I'd love to have a second set of hands.
PM or text your address, I will go load up what I can.
Did you try my method?
@imiceman44 I didn't end up needing to try another method - @Capt Ron came over and we got a couple jacks beneath the front axle. I pushed, he pulled, and it rolled pretty easy. It was definitely in gear this morning which explains the truck not moving at all... oops!
A major thanks to Ron for coming over. We had it moved in just about 2-3 minutes. He hung out for a little while after and taught me a bunch of things about the truck. Thanks again, man!!
With the truck in its new position, the driver's side axle shaft came out easy!
After Ron headed out, I went after the remaining three kingpin caps. Passenger-side lower, driver-side upper and lower. None of them would budge!
Oddly enough, the upper cap looks thicker on the driver's side than it did on the passenger side. Here is a photo of it:
There were cap screws holding the upper kingpin cap down on the passenger side, but on the driver's side it is studs. One of them unfortunately came out as you can see in the previous photo.
The bottom cap on the driver's side is stuck just like the passenger side. But I took a cold chisel to it and managed to get it to turn a little at least.
After about 30ish minutes I decided to just spray everything with penetrating fluid and try again tomorrow!
A major thanks to Ron for coming over. We had it moved in just about 2-3 minutes. He hung out for a little while after and taught me a bunch of things about the truck. Thanks again, man!!
With the truck in its new position, the driver's side axle shaft came out easy!
After Ron headed out, I went after the remaining three kingpin caps. Passenger-side lower, driver-side upper and lower. None of them would budge!
Oddly enough, the upper cap looks thicker on the driver's side than it did on the passenger side. Here is a photo of it:
There were cap screws holding the upper kingpin cap down on the passenger side, but on the driver's side it is studs. One of them unfortunately came out as you can see in the previous photo.
The bottom cap on the driver's side is stuck just like the passenger side. But I took a cold chisel to it and managed to get it to turn a little at least.
After about 30ish minutes I decided to just spray everything with penetrating fluid and try again tomorrow!
Those have probably never been apart, so try a little heat this morning and hope that penetrating oil worked@imiceman44 I didn't end up needing to try another method - @Capt Ron came over and we got a couple jacks beneath the front axle. I pushed, he pulled, and it rolled pretty easy. It was definitely in gear this morning which explains the truck not moving at all... oops!
A major thanks to Ron for coming over. We had it moved in just about 2-3 minutes. He hung out for a little while after and taught me a bunch of things about the truck. Thanks again, man!!
With the truck in its new position, the driver's side axle shaft came out easy!
After Ron headed out, I went after the remaining three kingpin caps. Passenger-side lower, driver-side upper and lower. None of them would budge!
Oddly enough, the upper cap looks thicker on the driver's side than it did on the passenger side. Here is a photo of it:
There were cap screws holding the upper kingpin cap down on the passenger side, but on the driver's side it is studs. One of them unfortunately came out as you can see in the previous photo.
The bottom cap on the driver's side is stuck just like the passenger side. But I took a cold chisel to it and managed to get it to turn a little at least.
After about 30ish minutes I decided to just spray everything with penetrating fluid and try again tomorrow!
Nice of @Capt Ron to come help!
your doing just fine . stud and nut as one is comon no big deal .
lube / and work will get you there . if rebuilding the king pins then you can cheat and hammer / punch the lower out threw the open knuckle area now . the tin cap in there gets replaced anyway . so damage to it is no problem . just dont get to crazy and mushroom over the top pin of the lower king pin cap .
side note when i put them all back together i wire brush / sand out all surfaces and copper anti-seize them up good for next time .
lube / and work will get you there . if rebuilding the king pins then you can cheat and hammer / punch the lower out threw the open knuckle area now . the tin cap in there gets replaced anyway . so damage to it is no problem . just dont get to crazy and mushroom over the top pin of the lower king pin cap .
side note when i put them all back together i wire brush / sand out all surfaces and copper anti-seize them up good for next time .
No great updates on the truck, still haven't been out since I last checked-in...
Random side question though for all of the CO guys (@Justin V // @Capt Ron // @mrk5 // @Bent77 // whomever else!). I got to thinking I need to do the title transfer on this thing. Then I got to thinking that I need to figure out the rules of registration. I didn't plan on registering it until after it was "done", which would be months from now. I have heard about non-op fees and whatnot but I can't find info online. Anybody know the scoop?
Random side question though for all of the CO guys (@Justin V // @Capt Ron // @mrk5 // @Bent77 // whomever else!). I got to thinking I need to do the title transfer on this thing. Then I got to thinking that I need to figure out the rules of registration. I didn't plan on registering it until after it was "done", which would be months from now. I have heard about non-op fees and whatnot but I can't find info online. Anybody know the scoop?
I don’t, but if you need to do a vin inspection @70jimmy may be able to lend info there
You should be able to do the title transfer without getting the truck registered. Once the truck is together and driveable you can get it registered. I don't think you'll need a vin inspection as long as it's a Colorado title to start with. All else fails just call the clerks office before going in.
Yup. If it already has a Colorado title it is pretty easy to do the title transfer. And you only have 30 days from the purchase date to get that completed. This is assuming that the seller dated the title as it is against the law to leave a title "open" with only the seller's signature. Then when you are ready to put it on the road, just pay the fees to get the plates. Hopefully you don't have to get a smog check first.
You can title it without an emissions report and usually even get a temporary tag. If you have a bill of sale that says "tow away" DO NOT let the clerk see it. Most Colo titles have a box for purchase price so a bill of sale is not necessary. This truck has headers with A.I.R fittings but no rails and with the exception of a charcoal canister it appears to be missing pretty much all of the emissions crap. When I was under it I forgot about looking for a catalytic converter. It also has an aftermarket intake and carb that I am pretty sure are not gonna fly.
Probably should just sell it to some guy that lives a few miles away and has way too many projects already.
I don't know how it works because my wife did it, but we had the title transferred on 73 but didn't have to register it until we were ready to drive it. Main reason was we didn't want to pay insurance on a vehicle we weren't driving. That's all I know; real helpful I know.
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Yep if it is Colorado title no vin inspection required, unless you are piecing together parts from different trucks and the vins don't match. Like a body swap.
