coolio. I thought I'd have to make my own tool for that.
CK5
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Ive heard of people using old dizzys also.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
My vote goes to, all of it! I bet the valve covers, intake, and oil pan/ rear main are all leaking lightly.
the reason I painted my motor black. 
lol, yeah, I painted it yellow on purpose thinking that it'd be easy to find a leak if one appeared. I guess I didn't take into account the whole thing leaking like a screen door in a submarine.the reason I painted my motor black.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
You should have cleaned it before pulling it out. Then you could run it and find it a bit easier. The radiator fan along with inertia tends to blow all the oil all over the place so what looks like a leak at the back really comes from the front.
My personal bet?... Valve covers.
My personal bet?... Valve covers.
I've been spinning the oil pump and I'm not seeing anything coming out anywhere so I figure if I can't find the oil leak I'll just buy a complete gasket kit and replace every gasket that could leak. It's not like I wasn't getting seapage anyway.
I was cruising around the JY today and since I was looking for a different power steering pump bracket I was looking at various serpentine setups.
I saw this one and was wondering if this would be something worth grabbing.
My thought was that I could keep my alternator approx. where it is now and since I don't have AC I could lose that part of it but maybe that would give me a spot to run OBA someday?
As I got looking around though there were several setups so they aren't exactly rare and the JY sells the brackets by size so it's pretty cheap.
Any thoughts? is there a desired system that I should keep a look out for?
I saw this one and was wondering if this would be something worth grabbing.
My thought was that I could keep my alternator approx. where it is now and since I don't have AC I could lose that part of it but maybe that would give me a spot to run OBA someday?
As I got looking around though there were several setups so they aren't exactly rare and the JY sells the brackets by size so it's pretty cheap.
Any thoughts? is there a desired system that I should keep a look out for?
I'd grab it if I were you unless you do plan to go LS soon... Serpentine belts are so much less of a headache than v belts IMO.
I have choices it appears. Is there a different setup that is popular for some reason?
there is one that is the same basic setup but the alternator and ac compressor switch spots.
there is one that is the same basic setup but the alternator and ac compressor switch spots.
I imagine tbi and vortec trucks were differentI have choices it appears. Is there a different setup that is popular for some reason?
there is one that is the same basic setup but the alternator and ac compressor switch spots.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
They are different. THey did swap sides for the alt/ac. Most folks go with the TBI one.
doing a little house cleaning in the engine bay while I have the engine out and it's cleaned up. My backup lights don't come on ever since I had the NV4500 installed so I want to get that hooked back up.
I know one of the green wires is for the back up lights, but I'm not sure what the other is for. I think the black one with the fitting on it is the grn for the backup switch.
here is the top of the NV4500:
Is that black connector for the backup lights?
I know one of the green wires is for the back up lights, but I'm not sure what the other is for.
I think the black one with the fitting on it is the grn for the backup switch.here is the top of the NV4500:
Is that black connector for the backup lights?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Yes.
coolio. Any chance it shares a connector with any other transmissions? I'd like to try and grab the other end of it from a junk yard to hopefully splice it into my wiring harness.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I can't get to mine to check but I didn't have to look very hard to find one. It may just be a standard GM 2 pin weatherpack connector.
Since I have the engine out and everything is nice and accessible I decided to do another conversion I've been wanting to do for awhile. Install a hydraulic clutch. I could never seem to get the mechanical linkage adjusted just right and if I did, it seemed to go out of adjustment with body flex (I have a 3" body lift that makes that worse I think.). Also the z-bar is right in the way if I decide to go with headers at some point.
The biggest hang up I had to start was where to mount the clutch master cylinder. I checked out Z's thread and asked questions and checked out this thread too:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198304&highlight=hydraulic+clutch
from the pics I got a pretty good idea where I should put it so I used the rubber gasket to line up a good spot:
pencil through the center of the hole worked perfectly.
I had to move that silver box (blinker relay?) out of the way in order to cut the hole. 1-3/8" center hole and 5/16" side holes and it was in:
If I had it to do over again I would have marked the hole leaving that silver box where it was. The master is just a touch too close to it for it to rotate back into place and it looks like there is plenty of room to move it a bit to the right so that it would clear. The left most bolt would be behind the box, but that wouldn't be much of an issue. Lesson for the next guy I guess.
Z helped me realize just how easy it is to pull the pedal assembly (thanks bro!) which made everything a ton easier. I think I am going to change my clutch spring while I'm at it. Comparing mine to Z's I think what he has would be better.
Mine:
Z's:
Doing a little reading, supposedly mine is the "heavy duty" type. I'd leave it, but because of the angle it's on there it somehow only pulls the pedal about 1/2 way up unless you pull it up a touch more, then it snaps the rest of the way up.
I'm betting a spring like Z's wouldn't have that issue, plus I can get one as heavy or light as I want.
The biggest hang up I had to start was where to mount the clutch master cylinder. I checked out Z's thread and asked questions and checked out this thread too:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198304&highlight=hydraulic+clutch
from the pics I got a pretty good idea where I should put it so I used the rubber gasket to line up a good spot:
pencil through the center of the hole worked perfectly.
I had to move that silver box (blinker relay?) out of the way in order to cut the hole. 1-3/8" center hole and 5/16" side holes and it was in:
If I had it to do over again I would have marked the hole leaving that silver box where it was. The master is just a touch too close to it for it to rotate back into place and it looks like there is plenty of room to move it a bit to the right so that it would clear. The left most bolt would be behind the box, but that wouldn't be much of an issue. Lesson for the next guy I guess.
Z helped me realize just how easy it is to pull the pedal assembly (thanks bro!) which made everything a ton easier. I think I am going to change my clutch spring while I'm at it. Comparing mine to Z's I think what he has would be better.
Mine:
Z's:
Doing a little reading, supposedly mine is the "heavy duty" type. I'd leave it, but because of the angle it's on there it somehow only pulls the pedal about 1/2 way up unless you pull it up a touch more, then it snaps the rest of the way up.
I'm betting a spring like Z's wouldn't have that issue, plus I can get one as heavy or light as I want.
Nice work dude! My pedal is pretty even. Only issue that I have is in the stock location, my seat is closer than I'd like (I'm 6'3") and my leg has to work at a slightly weird angle. When I do a cage the seats are moving up and back a bit.
funny, for some reason I always had you pegged as a short dude.
I'm 6'2" myself so that may be a concern, but my aftermarket seat does have adjustment and I mounted it a little high so hopefully it'll all work out.
also, had to share this photo I took today:
little guy grabbed the bar and started making vroom, vroom noises... I think he's got some pretty big ideas for a future motorcycle.
Got the new clutch spring installed:
Best I could find was this one from CAL ranch supply, but it was the right length and seems to be strong enough so we'll see how it works out.
Got the push rod all connected to the pedal with a yoke end from NAPA. As near as I can measure it, the master cylinder wants about 1-1/4" of travel and the spot I connected it to on the clutch pedal has about 2-1/4" of travel from stop to floor. I pulled the pedal in about 1/2" to take out some of the extra travel but I'm worried about pulling too low for comfort also. I'll try driving it as is for awhile to see how I like it.
The real issue I had today though was under the hood.
I had to rebend the hydroboost lines to make room for the clutch master cylinder with one having to go over it. I don't know how you'd pull this off with a big ass vacuum booster in the way. I'd love to see it if anyone has tried that.
Best I could find was this one from CAL ranch supply, but it was the right length and seems to be strong enough so we'll see how it works out.
Got the push rod all connected to the pedal with a yoke end from NAPA. As near as I can measure it, the master cylinder wants about 1-1/4" of travel and the spot I connected it to on the clutch pedal has about 2-1/4" of travel from stop to floor. I pulled the pedal in about 1/2" to take out some of the extra travel but I'm worried about pulling too low for comfort also. I'll try driving it as is for awhile to see how I like it.
The real issue I had today though was under the hood.
I had to rebend the hydroboost lines to make room for the clutch master cylinder with one having to go over it. I don't know how you'd pull this off with a big ass vacuum booster in the way.
I'd love to see it if anyone has tried that.
