CK5
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The 208 isnt too bad once you get in there. You just need basic hand tools and a decent set of snap ring plyers
 
I have seen this before, make sure your drive shaft is in phase , yokes in line clips in line. If you have it out it will cause that problem.
 
I have seen this before, make sure your drive shaft is in phase , yokes in line clips in line. If you have it out it will cause that problem.
hmmm... I'll have to check into that. I don't have yokes on either side of my transfer case though.

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Like above. Slip yoke in the back and 4 bolt plate in the front.

I didn't take the drive shafts apart after having them balanced either so that shouldn't be the problem.

Oh, and I did pull the front driveshaft out so if it's a driveshaft problem it has to be the back.
 
Do you do anything to change either angle on your rear shaft.
Like move the transfer case forward or back that would have changed the angle of the ujoint.
As for phase I was talking about the ujoints in your yokes on the driveshaft being the same.
 
Do you do anything to change either angle on your rear shaft.
Like move the transfer case forward or back that would have changed the angle of the ujoint.
As for phase I was talking about the ujoints in your yokes on the driveshaft being the same.

I checked the u-joints and those are in phase, but I think you may be onto something. I did move the transfer case forward a couple of inches and raise it as well.

This is what my driveshaft looks like at the pumpkin:
Driveline1.jpg


Isn't that supposed to be straight?
 
transfer case angle:
Driveline2.jpg


axle angle:
Driveline3.jpg


The transfer case is sitting at about 4* while the pinion is at 11*.

I tried spacing the transfer case down to get it closer to the pinion angle but it really can't go down because it starts to cause interference issues for the engine.

So, my options are to either get a CV rear shaft and pitch the axle up to match the driveline angle or keep the same driveline and pitch the axle down to match the transfer case angle. right?
 
You can do leaf spring shims to bring the pinion angle into alignment with the tcase angle. I'd leave the tcase alone. Then decide what the long term plan is. Cut the perches off and weld new ones on at the correct angle with current shaft, CV shaft + SYE (still have to cut perches off), etc.
 
7* difference will cause vibration. They need to be the same or real close to the same
 
7* difference will cause vibration. They need to be the same or real close to the same
Well, at least we seem to have found the problem.

I'll see if I can find some leaf spring shims locally, or maybe just tackle the spring perches this weekend. It doesn't seem like it would be all that difficult to cut the perches off and reweld them in the right place. Anything scary I should be aware of before I try it?
 
I believe you can get shims or tapered ez inches through Kert if you need to pick your back up a bit. Its not scary at all to cut perches and turn them, especially with a little weight on the back so they dont want to spin without a BFH
 
Would be ideal to shim real quick and see if that fixes the problem. And if it does, then go ahead and reweld your perches.
 
Would be ideal to shim real quick and see if that fixes the problem. And if it does, then go ahead and reweld your perches.
I got a couple of 2* shims from bigblock72 to try out. Since that wasn't enough to get all the way to even I tried shimming the pinion UP first so that the lower u-joint was basically straight on. If anything, it made things worse. So, this morning I flipped the shims around so that I'm shimming down now.

The problem is still there, but I think it was better. Even with the shims the pinion is still 5* off from the transfer case so it's not unexpected.

I think my only real option left is to point the pinion back up and get a CV driveline. Hopefully that will fix the driveline issue, but I think I'm still going to have to rebuild the transfer case. :doah:

I've put about 100 miles on it since the swap (engine runs great btw :waytogo:) and what I'm thinking is that the driveline is the problem but it's causing the noise to come from the transfer case. Basically I think it's shaking the snot out of the case. The drive shafts don't feel loose when you try to shake them but the case is leaking from the slip yoke and from the shift lever.
 
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