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'72 K5 - BYT - 1 ton swap

Overview Gallery Discussion
ashman said:
Transmission is here.


What would you do as far as fix ups? Replace the filter? More?

I forgot to ask for the dipstick so I'll have to try to get that tomorrow. Also, I know my wiring harness included a neutral safety switch but I'm not sure I still have it. Can/should I run without it? I'm also going to ask for the cooler lines. I probably can't use the whole line but at least I can get the right fittings for the transmission side. I *think* that my radiator is set up for transmission lines... gotta check on that.
This weekend I'm going to hit the junkyard and see if I can round up a brake pedal from an automatic. Also going to order that lokar shifter I think.
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You don't *have* to run a neutral safety switch, but I would. Not so much for your sake, but for any other moron that tries to start the rig without it being in neutral...think alignment shops, etc. While you can use the cooler inside the radiator, I'd recommend running a separate cooler in front of the radiator. It'll help keep your transmission happier, longer
 
AJs72K5 said:
You don't *have* to run a neutral safety switch, but I would. Not so much for your sake, but for any other moron that tries to start the rig without it being in neutral...think alignment shops, etc.
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That's a good point I never thought of.
 
I got the Lokar shifter mounted to the 4L60E and I gotta say, it looks pretty good.
4l60e_2.jpg


4l60e_3.jpg


I have a question on backup lights though. How are you guys with a swap like this wiring them? There is a connection on the side of the shifter, but it's actually a neutral/park indicator, not a reverse indicator. I'm not sure how to detect reverse to trigger my lights. Does the PCM have a lead for that? :thinking:

A couple of interesting things are working in my favor so far. First off, the transmission mount from the NV4500 will bolt right up to the 4L60E and it appears to be the same distance from the engine so I may not even have to move the crossmember. I was able to mount the shifter in about the same location as the manual shifter, so the tunnel hole should work out too. The transmissions appear to be the same length to the end of the transfer case adapter too so it looks like I won't even need to get a new front drive shaft. :waytogo: I'll still have to replace the rear though because I am rebuilding the transfer case with a SYE kit.

Over the next few days I'll get the transfer case rebuilt and start working on the tranny cooler lines. Also need to get a hold of 208motorsports to get my PCM redone to run the 4L60E.

Famous last words, but so far everything seems to be going very smoothly. :saweet:
 
Thanks guys, I'm excited to see how it looks installed in the truck.

Did a little reading and it appears that one of the wires coming off of the neutral safety switch is supposed to run the backup lights. I need to chase down exactly which one and then see where it goes. I took a quick look through the PCM pin out list and I didn't see anything that looked like a backup light wire so I'm guessing that the line doesn't go through the PCM. In that case, there is a decent chance that I removed it from my wiring harness. :doah: I'm pretty sure I can add it back in without too much hassle if it comes to that but it's still a bummer. If I have to go to all that trouble, I'll probably go the extra step and add a relay to the circuit so that I can add more lights later. I would love to have a lot more light when backing up.
 
ashman said:
Thanks guys, I'm excited to see how it looks installed in the truck.

Did a little reading and it appears that one of the wires coming off of the neutral safety switch is supposed to run the backup lights. I need to chase down exactly which one and then see where it goes. I took a quick look through the PCM pin out list and I didn't see anything that looked like a backup light wire so I'm guessing that the line doesn't go through the PCM. In that case, there is a decent chance that I removed it from my wiring harness. :doah: I'm pretty sure I can add it back in without too much hassle if it comes to that but it's still a bummer. If I have to go to all that trouble, I'll probably go the extra step and add a relay to the circuit so that I can add more lights later. I would love to have a lot more light when backing up.
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The back-up lights simply go through the switch, the wires are probably still there and will be quite easy to connect.

104204022.gif
 
cool, that's what I figured. Now to just get home and see if I trimmed that wire out of the plug or not. :thinking:
 
I haven't had too much time this weekend but I did get a little time to work on the transfer case. I forgot to take pics :doah: but I got the new shaft for the SYE kit swapped in and got everything all cleaned up.
I replaced the shift shaft seal since that was leaking. It turns out it is just a simple O-ring that is held in behind a plastic ring. I looked all over for a replacement seal before I actually pulled it out and realized it wasn't a unique piece. I'm pretty certain you could pull it out (using a pick to pry it out) and replace it without taking apart the case or even draining it if you needed to.

There are two plastic rings that go on the range selector shaft that look a little worn so I'm going to try to find new ones tomorrow and replace them. Other than that the case is ready to button back up.

I was able to confirm that I do still have the backup light wire on my neutral safety switch plug. I'm going to have to pull the engine harness off so that I can chase down where it goes. That sounds like more of a hassle than it actually is. I can probably pull the harness in less than 1/2 hour.

I'll try to make with the pics next time.
 
Doing some work on the tranny swap today and ran into an issue I'm concerned about:
4l60e_metal_chunks1.jpg


Found those chunks in the drain pan. How bad is this? Do I need to see if I can get another one or is that going to be ok?
 
Although finding metal in the transmission is a bit of a setback, I'm still proceeding with the rest of what I need to do. Part of which is rebuilding the transfer case with a 27 spline input shaft and SYE kit.

Everything inside the case looked pretty good except for these plastic bushings:
Transfer_case1.jpg


New ones in place on the shift fork:
Transfer_case2.jpg

I had to order those up from some place in Florida. Surprisingly hard to find locally.

Transfer_case3.jpg

Here is the new and old output shafts next to each other. The new one has all of the gears swapped onto it. You can see how much shorter it is now that I won't be using the tail housing.

Transfer_case4.jpg

new seal housing attached to the reused speedo housing.

Transfer_case5.jpg

And the finished product. I opted for the end that will take a CV joint. Hopefully I won't have anymore vibration issues.

I also got the engine wiring harness pulled and verified that I did indeed keep the neutral safety switch wires. Now it's just a matter of figuring out where to wire them. All of the transmission control wires seem to be in place still except for the pwr wire which I have run, just not wired into my fuse box.

Oh, and thanks to Team208motorsports, the new PCM showed up today so I should be able to drive this baby as soon as I wrap everything up.
 
mrk5 said:
That tcase looks nice! I like the flange idea.
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Thanks, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I can't wait to get a driveline made and try it out.

A bit of good news today. Alltruck parts was very helpful and they are going to swap me a different transmission. Luckily they have one so I will be taking this one back to them this afternoon to swap them out. :thumb:
 
Neutral safety switch wiring question:
There are 2 plugs on the switch, 4 and 7 pin plugs. The 4 pin plug I think is just for gauge indication of what gear its in. The 7 pin plug is where I'm having trouble. Here is a pic of the wires:
Neutral_switch_plug.jpg

I have 2 PNK, BLK/WHT, LT GRN, DRK GRN, GRY. However, all of the diagrams I can find online show different colors:

manuallocationpositionswitch.jpg


Anybody got a diagram that shows the colors I have? Trying to figure out how to wire this thing.
 
My diagram doesn't show the same colors either so I'd just go with the pin placement like stated above.
 
I think this diagram is a little closer to mine:
LSHarnessTrans11ParkNeutralPositionandBackupSwitch1.gif

My wiring harness doesn't have a wire going to pin A either, so I think this one might be closer to right.

I was able to put the switch on the transmission and verify that when I shift into reverse pin C and pin F are shorted. On my wiring harness C is PNK and F is GRY. That makes sense for running power through the switch for the reverse lights.

While in park I was able to see that pin C and pin B are shorted. I can use the wire on pin B (LT GRN on my harness) in my starter circuit to make sure I'm in park before starting. Unfortunately I can't get the switch to short any two pins while in neutral. I don't know if it's a problem with the switch or something with the wiring I don't understand, but at present it looks like I won't be able to start the truck in neutral. Not a deal breaker but it would be a bummer if this came back to bite me someday.

Oh, also got the new trans from the junkyard. Opened it up and MUCH cleaner inside. So far, so good. :waytogo:
 
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