Bigblue7-2
1/2 ton status
Like a big scavenger hunt. Glad you can be the guinea pig!
Cool that they made good on the trans deal.
Cool that they made good on the trans deal.
CK5
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I think this diagram is a little closer to mine:
My wiring harness doesn't have a wire going to pin A either, so I think this one might be closer to right.
I was able to put the switch on the transmission and verify that when I shift into reverse pin C and pin F are shorted. On my wiring harness C is PNK and F is GRY. That makes sense for running power through the switch for the reverse lights.
While in park I was able to see that pin C and pin B are shorted. I can use the wire on pin B (LT GRN on my harness) in my starter circuit to make sure I'm in park before starting. Unfortunately I can't get the switch to short any two pins while in neutral. I don't know if it's a problem with the switch or something with the wiring I don't understand, but at present it looks like I won't be able to start the truck in neutral. Not a deal breaker but it would be a bummer if this came back to bite me someday.
Oh, also got the new trans from the junkyard. Opened it up and MUCH cleaner inside. So far, so good.
Pin E (pink) and pine G (dk. green) should be your neutral safety wires. Make sure to use a relay.
Cool, thanks! Yup, pin E and pin G are shorted in park and in neutral. That makes more sense.
Now just to figure out how to insert those wires into my existing wiring to the starter relay.
Now just to figure out how to insert those wires into my existing wiring to the starter relay.
The way I have the starter relay wired is the positive side of the enable circuit goes through the ignition switch and the negative side goes through my engine harness connection to get GND. I cut this wire on the engine side and wired it to pin G, then wired pin E to GND. That will disconnect the GND connection for the relay unless the transmission is in Park or Neutral.
I wired pin B and pin C to my existing backup light switch wires.
That should do it for wiring. Just gotta button the harness back up and reinstall it.
I'm having a bit of trouble getting the flexplate and torque converter hooked up. According to what I've been reading, if the torque converter is seated correctly then when I mate the bellhousing to the engine there should be a bit of play between the converter and the flex plate. I'm pretty sure it's seated correctly but when I look up through the inspection hole in the bottom it looks like they are touching in the center.
I can still turn the torque converter so I installed 1 bolt and then turned the engine to get to the second. The problem was that after installing the second bolt I couldn't turn the engine anymore and had to remove the bolt in order to free it up. I think that somehow the engine and transmission were binding each other, but when disconnected they both move freely.
After thinking about it, I realized I didn't have the bellhousing fully bolted up so the engine and trans weren't mated perfectly at the same angle so maybe that is my problem. I've been too busy recovering today
to go out and test my theory but I'm hopeful.
If anyone has any other advice I'm all ears.
It's been more than 15 years since I've worked with an automatic and I'm trying to remember if I'm missing something.
I can still turn the torque converter so I installed 1 bolt and then turned the engine to get to the second. The problem was that after installing the second bolt I couldn't turn the engine anymore and had to remove the bolt in order to free it up. I think that somehow the engine and transmission were binding each other, but when disconnected they both move freely.
After thinking about it, I realized I didn't have the bellhousing fully bolted up so the engine and trans weren't mated perfectly at the same angle so maybe that is my problem. I've been too busy recovering today
to go out and test my theory but I'm hopeful.If anyone has any other advice I'm all ears.
It's been more than 15 years since I've worked with an automatic and I'm trying to remember if I'm missing something.
Yes they have to be bolted together right first
I'm having a bit of trouble getting the flexplate and torque converter hooked up. According to what I've been reading, if the torque converter is seated correctly then when I mate the bellhousing to the engine there should be a bit of play between the converter and the flex plate. I'm pretty sure it's seated correctly but when I look up through the inspection hole in the bottom it looks like they are touching in the center.
I can still turn the torque converter so I installed 1 bolt and then turned the engine to get to the second. The problem was that after installing the second bolt I couldn't turn the engine anymore and had to remove the bolt in order to free it up. I think that somehow the engine and transmission were binding each other, but when disconnected they both move freely.
After thinking about it, I realized I didn't have the bellhousing fully bolted up so the engine and trans weren't mated perfectly at the same angle so maybe that is my problem. I've been too busy recovering today
If anyone has any other advice I'm all ears.
Which flexplate are you using?
The one that was on the engine when I bought it.
Had to go back and look but that should be the dished one which is the right one for a 4l60. Carry on.
And, I was smart enough to make sure "this side to engine" was facing the right way. 
pilot bearing.
dammit.
dammit.
I haven't put it back in, but I'm pretty sure I found the problem.
this:
was keeping this:
from going into this hole:
This may have been obvious to many of you, but I had forgotten that the pilot bearing needed to be removed.
Also, used this video to remind me how to get the damn things out.
this:
was keeping this:
from going into this hole:
This may have been obvious to many of you, but I had forgotten that the pilot bearing needed to be removed.
Also, used this video to remind me how to get the damn things out.
If it's not one thing it's another. Got the transmission all installed but got a couple of issues to deal with.
The emergency brake cable is running right in the way. I'm going to have to see if I can reroute it.
hard to tell in the pic, but the 4l60e drain pan is a little wider than the bottom of the nv4500 so it is causing a little interference with my exhaust. Going to have to see what I can do to move it a bit.
The emergency brake cable is running right in the way. I'm going to have to see if I can reroute it.
hard to tell in the pic, but the 4l60e drain pan is a little wider than the bottom of the nv4500 so it is causing a little interference with my exhaust. Going to have to see what I can do to move it a bit.
Ran into a new issue. I started the truck up for the first time today. It started right up, but if I shift out of park or neutral it immediately dies.
not sure what I did wrong... any ideas?
not sure what I did wrong... any ideas?
Did it lurch at all on the shift? Torque converter locking up?
Feed it cookies??
Oh wait, your truck doesn't eat cookies.
Oh wait, your truck doesn't eat cookies.
no lurch. It seemed like the electrical was shut off. I'm guessing that I wired something in the neutral safety switch wrong
Team208Motorsports
Its Magic Bitch
Like instant die or low idle and die?
Instant die
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