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'72 K5 - BYT - 1 ton swap

Overview Gallery Discussion
First gear in a 700/4l60 is way low so that 1-2 shift is usually very quick.

The higher rpms of the 4.88s I like more. Chances of the 4l60 shifting back and forth go down and it's not substantially more rpm while cruising.

But go drive around a bunch and see what ya think
 
4door99 said:
I'm running 5.13's with 37" tires on my rig. With the overdrive, it still cruises great at 75mph. And on the trails 5.13's are awesome. The only down side is when I mash the throttle from take off. It revs too quick almost hitting the rev limiter, making the transition from first to second an odd shift. I'm sure there is some programming I could do, but with 4.88's and 37's know I wouldn't have that issue. Or in your case 4.56's and 35's.
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Yeah, I'm thinking 4.56 is about right too.

RootBreaker said:
seems not too bad? how long in overdrive would you be? i took my truck (non OD) up the highway and my truck was bout what that calculator said...
3k @ 70mph.... hah... for 50 of my 65 mile commute...

that calculator is fricken awesome
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I don't think I want to be cruising at 3k for long periods of time, it would be deafening!

According to the calculator 69mph in 3rd gear with my current gearing will equal 75mph in OD with 4.88s. I'll try cruising around like that a bit before I pull the trigger on gears to see how I like it.
 
I have 4:56 in my '70. When it had 33's, I liked how it felt. Now with 35's, I noticed the difference. That truck has a 700R4 behind the big block.
My '90 has the 4:10s and 32's, soon to be back to 33's. I like it more now than when it had 3:73. The difference doesn't jump out at you, but after running it around some, I like it!

So I would recommend going deeper gears!
 
A slight distraction from the regear.

Last year I rebuilt both doors to get rid of all the rattling. That went fantastic and they are way better, but I didn't really know how to disassemble everything the first time and I managed to bend the passenger side vent window piece making the window extremely hard to roll up/down. I looked into just replacing it, but it turns out a new one would be ~$200! Way too much right now, so I decided to pull it apart and see if I could do a better job of bending it back to reasonably straight.

Before:
Vent_window_before1.jpg


Vent_window_before2.jpg


After:
Vent_window_after1.jpg


Vent_window_after2.jpg


After putting it all back together window operation is much improved. It's still a little tough to roll, but at least it can be done with 1 hand now and doesn't feel like you are going to break the handle off. I think most of the resistance at this point is that when it was bent the window chewed up the felt piece trying to push through the bent vent side runner. At some point I'll have to replace that felt piece again, and keep my eyes open for a replacement vent piece, but it works for now.
 
If you don't get one before BB17, send me a reminder and I should have one.
 
6872xtc said:
If you don't get one before BB17, send me a reminder and I should have one.
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Awesome, thanks.

Oh, also got a chance to drive the truck for a bit today. I kept it in 3rd gear and ran it up to 70mph... 2500rpms will be just fine to cruise with so I guess @blazinzuk was right again. I'll be going 4.88s.
 
ashman said:
Awesome, thanks.

Oh, also got a chance to drive the truck for a bit today. I kept it in 3rd gear and ran it up to 70mph... 2500rpms will be just fine to cruise with so I guess @blazinzuk was right again. I'll be going 4.88s.
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Good choice, you'll be way happy with 4.88s.

I have a wing window kicking around, swing by and grab it when you're in the neighborhood.
 
Brand questions.

I know the consensus is that Yukon gears are the best. That aside, I'm seeing some good deals on Platinum Torque and USA Standard gears. If I go with cheaper gears, what possible problems am I looking at? Would it be worth maybe going cheaper in the front only?

On the lockers, I'm pretty much set on a detroit for the rear, but on the front I'm looking at either an Aussie or a Spartan locker. Prices are pretty much the same, so any preference?
 
Cheaper gears run the risk of running louder and hotter, even if they are set up correctly. Not sure if it's a material issue or bad tolerances. Some axles have know problems with certain aftermarket gears.

If possible, stick with a good quality, name brand on at least the rear axle. Having those fail would be a bad time (I consider extra noise a failure here). The front axle is less of a concern, you can disconnect that fairly easily and still drive. Odds are you won't be running with the front engaged at high speeds very often either.

That being said. In my 70, I used a set of OEM gears in the 10B and Sf14. Both sets were used when I got them, but they are in good shape and was able to get them setup correctly. In my bogging/race truck, I went with used Usa gears for the 60 and pretty much the cheapest Ebay had to offer for the 14B. I haven't set those up yet so can't comment of the quality yet. That thing get trailered everywhere and only runs for 300' at a time. I don't forsee any issues with going to a lower quality in this application as it won't strand me anywhere or howl at me going down the highway.
 
When it comes to buying items for the truck or K5, there are times you could save a few bucks. For me powertrain is not one of those. When you talking about cheaper gears, I've only seen the price difference about $100 or so, unless you are looking at OEM gears. Cheaper gear as @toomany says do have a higher chance or running hotter, or even worse, louder. The last thing I want is to be cruising on a long road trip and hearing that axle whining the whole time. This would drive me nuts. Because I the only way to fix it, would be spending that money again. Food for thought.
 
Thanks for the input guys. After talking with some other people, and considering how few miles I actually put on this thing, I'm leaning towards cheaper gears. The price difference I'm finding between Yukon and some of the others is about double. I may pony up for the higher price on the rear, but not on the front.

... still researching.
 
USA standard are fine I have used them alot.

I'm not a fan of Richmond gears especially for Toyota.

OEM are the best but typically double the price of most stuff.

In this truck, which is a loud lifted barn door aerodynamics, a slightly louder gear won't be a big deal at all.

In addition lately I have seen several Yukon gear sets that were loud. Where as the same axle set up with USA standard were quieter. So unless your buying OEM a decent quality is fine. I have had good success with nitro gears though
 
welp, just dropped $1500 at Ron's Machining Service.
http://www.ronsmachiningservice.net/

I got USA Standard gears, front and back, master install kits for both axles, Detroit and Aussie lockers.

Prices were the best I could find, they were very helpful on the phone, and just because I asked they gave me a further discount. :waytogo:
 
And another order into ORD for shock tabs, spring perches, U-bolts + plates. Also replacing my worn out spring bushings in the front with grease-able bushings.

Hopefully in about a month this thing will be like a whole new truck.
 
I put USA standard gears in everything.

Brett busted a tooth in the front 60 last summer. But I blame that on being our first gear setup, and he rushed it where I did not think it was good.

Ive put way more miles on mine and more abuse and have yet to have an issue so far. No gear whine in any of the applications either.
 
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