Page 37..... Yikes
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
I love the way wades
(Ktmoutfront)exhaust exits his rig. Plan on doing that on the next rig.
(Ktmoutfront)exhaust exits his rig. Plan on doing that on the next rig.
Awesome progress as always.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
I'm scared to take my wheel wells off like that. I think half the floor would come with it. Haha. Mine aren't super bad but where it connects on the rear side to tail pan area and six inches in front of tail pan area are Swiss cheese. It would be awesome to just pop the whole floor out and pop a new one in.
Love that look. Indefinitely doing it on my next project.
Neither of these show detail, but you get the idea.
Thanks Wade.
Any issues with exhaust fumes in that location? I realize that with a full convertible it may not be as applicable, but it is still a concern of mine if I am forced into doing any sort of "side exit" exhaust setup.....
-G
Any issues with exhaust fumes in that location? I realize that with a full convertible it may not be as applicable, but it is still a concern of mine if I am forced into doing any sort of "side exit" exhaust setup.....
-G
Just with the back window open. No issues through the side windows or if the top is off.
ATTENTION KERT!!!!
I know you're subscribed to this thread, so I'll ask you if you can do a little "pet project" for me and contribute your expertise to the "MAW" build!!
I've been thinking of a way to make this myself, but I think the best results will come from someone with "real" machine tools....
As this project moves forward, I want to build a set of custom rollcage plates that are cut with a profile that follows the convoluted floor pattern in the rear of the truck.
The top of the cage plate will still be flat but the underside (where it touches the floor) will look more like this:
_____/-----------\_______/----------
ASCII art sucks but you get the idea.
The concept is to create a solid plate with 100% contact with the sheetmetal. I want to remove the voids to keep water and crud out from underneath the plated areas.
I can probably build something like this with a thin piece of 1/8" plate welded with a few heavily chamfered 1/4" plate strips. But it still wont have the perfect radiuses in the transitions from low-to-high spots.
I'm not sure if the convoluted metal varies from 1st Gen to the later models. I'm sure I could make up a dimensioned template for you to work from.
Any interest?
-G
I know you're subscribed to this thread, so I'll ask you if you can do a little "pet project" for me and contribute your expertise to the "MAW" build!!
I've been thinking of a way to make this myself, but I think the best results will come from someone with "real" machine tools....
As this project moves forward, I want to build a set of custom rollcage plates that are cut with a profile that follows the convoluted floor pattern in the rear of the truck.
The top of the cage plate will still be flat but the underside (where it touches the floor) will look more like this:
_____/-----------\_______/----------
ASCII art sucks but you get the idea.
The concept is to create a solid plate with 100% contact with the sheetmetal. I want to remove the voids to keep water and crud out from underneath the plated areas.
I can probably build something like this with a thin piece of 1/8" plate welded with a few heavily chamfered 1/4" plate strips. But it still wont have the perfect radiuses in the transitions from low-to-high spots.
I'm not sure if the convoluted metal varies from 1st Gen to the later models. I'm sure I could make up a dimensioned template for you to work from.
Any interest?
-G
ATTENTION KERT!!!!
I know you're subscribed to this thread, so I'll ask you if you can do a little "pet project" for me and contribute your expertise to the "MAW" build!!
I've been thinking of a way to make this myself, but I think the best results will come from someone with "real" machine tools....
As this project moves forward, I want to build a set of custom rollcage plates that are cut with a profile that follows the convoluted floor pattern in the rear of the truck.
The top of the cage plate will still be flat but the underside (where it touches the floor) will look more like this:
_____/-----------\_______/----------
ASCII art sucks but you get the idea.
The concept is to create a solid plate with 100% contact with the sheetmetal. I want to remove the voids to keep water and crud out from underneath the plated areas.
I can probably build something like this with a thin piece of 1/8" plate welded with a few heavily chamfered 1/4" plate strips. But it still wont have the perfect radiuses in the transitions from low-to-high spots.
I'm not sure if the convoluted metal varies from 1st Gen to the later models. I'm sure I could make up a dimensioned template for you to work from.
Any interest?
-G
I like this...I'll be waiting to see his response to this
Unless you make a mirrored plate for the other side to sandwich the metal it will probably still get crud in there. Wouldn't it be easier to cut out the portion you need to bolt to and weld a thicker flat plate in there to bolt the cage too?
The "mirror" was actually the idea...
It's getting VERY interesting looking at the truck with the wheeltubs removed and visualizing the truck with no bedsides.
I am starting to "see" the ways that the rollcage is going to extend below the bed floor (and cab floor) and connect to the rocksliders, as well as the framerails below. In effect, the structure underneath is completing what has effectively become a "full tube chassis with framerails".... and the floorpans are really nothing more than a thin divider between the upper and lower portions of that assembly. Think of it like a bolt-together clamshell of an upper and lower cage structure, where the body of the truck is just a thin layer of metal sandwiched between them......
In fact, as this idea moves forward in the coming weeks/months it will start to be obvious that the tub doesn't actually NEED to be in place. Now that I've committed to hard-mounting the body to the frame and cagework, the body itself can be plucked out from the cage/frame structure and sent off for bodywork/paint while the complete skeleton of the truck is still sitting on it's suspension as a roller in my garage.
A bit hard to explain.... but I'm sure you'll stick around for the photos once I get that far.
-G
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I did the sandwich thing on mine and welded in chamfer pieces to fill in the gap. The problem is with any kind of bedliner, on mine there's still a little room for dirt and water to get under there. But if it's close enough and you leave room for paint on both sides it probably works just fine.
Quick Update on the Wheel Project:
For those of you who are excited about the prospects of building your own 17" 8-Lug steelies... you might want to slow down a bit and take a look at the data I've compiled here:
Based on this first round of numbers, the least amount of backspacing that can be achieved with this particular wheel center/ hoop combo is 7.00"!!!
That doesn't bother me with a portal setup, but for guys who are used to running pretty minimal backspacings (like 3.75" or whatever).... it's not going to be a simple bolt-on affair. Probably either a huge aluminum spacer behind the wheels or some kind of DRW hub swap to make it fit.
-G
For those of you who are excited about the prospects of building your own 17" 8-Lug steelies... you might want to slow down a bit and take a look at the data I've compiled here:
Based on this first round of numbers, the least amount of backspacing that can be achieved with this particular wheel center/ hoop combo is 7.00"!!!
That doesn't bother me with a portal setup, but for guys who are used to running pretty minimal backspacings (like 3.75" or whatever).... it's not going to be a simple bolt-on affair. Probably either a huge aluminum spacer behind the wheels or some kind of DRW hub swap to make it fit.
-G
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Can you not flip the hoops?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I'm not sure what the poke look is.
Sure, if you stuck with the minimum amount of backspacing but if you flipped them you'd be looking for the maximum amount of the same measurement. I don't know what the total width of the rim is, but if it's less than 14" then 7" of backspacing 1 way would work out to less than 7" the the other direction.I guess if you wanted the "poke" look....
-G
right?
