diggin the jeep Dave!i kept picturing a YJ?? i'm gonna rig up my snorkle this weekend and make a flag.
Snorkle? I don't do deep water, once my ass gets wet, I'm backin' up
.My dist. is in the front of the engine too. Wah, I need a BBC
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
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- Tags
- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Snorkle? I don't do deep water, once my ass gets wet, I'm backin' up
.My dist. is in the front of the engine too. Wah, I need a BBC
Sweet Jeepster. 
What year?
What year?
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Nice Jeepster...
I shaved a ton off my 14b... Haven't had a chance to test it for leaks though...
I shaved a ton off my 14b... Haven't had a chance to test it for leaks though...
Ned Kelly
1/2 ton status
Zimmer,
Look here.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRVm_TAE24A at about 2:45 time mark in the video.
Look here.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRVm_TAE24A at about 2:45 time mark in the video.
Thanks dirty....my Dad bought this 68 about 20 years ago in CO. I bought it from him, and we've both had a blast in it together. But time to move on to bigger and better things.....$$$$$
what did you do to think you'll have leaks on your 14?
BGKYK5.....the Jeepster is a 68, I rebuilt the drivetrain, 225 Buick, T86 3speed, and a D27 up front, closed knuckle, with a Lockright, and Chevy 1/2 ton discs. Out back, I put a D44 flanged axle in, with a lockright, to replace the D30 splined hub version. Pretty stock other than that.
I'll try to get a few more pics and start something in the "other rides" forum.
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Pinion/support dis-assembly
Removed the pinion yoke, with a press. this could also be done with a 2 jaw puller. Look at the crap that accumulated around the pinion seal. It did its job really good, it wasn't leaking, and I didn't find any dirt inside under the seal.
The pinion dis-assembled:
I left the rear pinion bearing on the pinion, as it looked in good shape, and spun smoothly, and saw no further need to remove it.
These are the pinion pilot bearings (or as GM service manual refers: pinion straddle bearing) The one on the right is out of the 79 3/4t housing, the one on the left is from the 85 C&C housing. This is the only bearing I found in need of replacement in the whole rear axle. I have one coming from Jesse, at H.A.D.
The stores around here weren't able to find this bearing on their wiz-gizmo computer listings, Rock Auto didn't list it either.
Removed the pinion yoke, with a press. this could also be done with a 2 jaw puller. Look at the crap that accumulated around the pinion seal. It did its job really good, it wasn't leaking, and I didn't find any dirt inside under the seal.
The pinion dis-assembled:
I left the rear pinion bearing on the pinion, as it looked in good shape, and spun smoothly, and saw no further need to remove it.
These are the pinion pilot bearings (or as GM service manual refers: pinion straddle bearing) The one on the right is out of the 79 3/4t housing, the one on the left is from the 85 C&C housing. This is the only bearing I found in need of replacement in the whole rear axle. I have one coming from Jesse, at H.A.D.
The stores around here weren't able to find this bearing on their wiz-gizmo computer listings, Rock Auto didn't list it either.
OK I got it Ned....I love that quote from the movie too.
I was thinking you was saying that "I endorse one tons" was in the movie.
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Grinder and some cut off wheels...
Oh yeah, and a bunch of beer...
Oh yeah, and a bunch of beer...
Speaking of tube benders....
After reading nbilby's thread:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthr...75#post2625044
and keeping budget minded, I too will be in need of at least a minimal type cage for my build, to get it off road safe. I would add to it in the future, but would like to get a 6-10 point cage in it to start with. I don't need a Ryoken cage right now, but would pursue adding more to it in the future.
So what would a decent budget priced bender cost, and what would be recommended. Instead of paying someone 300-500 to bend me up something, I might as well put that into a bender of my own.
This will be posted in the tools section, and linked to my build thread also.
__________________
After reading nbilby's thread:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthr...75#post2625044
and keeping budget minded, I too will be in need of at least a minimal type cage for my build, to get it off road safe. I would add to it in the future, but would like to get a 6-10 point cage in it to start with. I don't need a Ryoken cage right now, but would pursue adding more to it in the future.
So what would a decent budget priced bender cost, and what would be recommended. Instead of paying someone 300-500 to bend me up something, I might as well put that into a bender of my own.
This will be posted in the tools section, and linked to my build thread also.
__________________
I sand blasted the hubs last night at work, then give em a couple coats of etching primer, and 2 coats of Silver paint. Same with the new rotors, and brake calipers. I just used a spray can for these items. These rotors are 12.5 diameter, and 1.3 thickness. I used a 79K20 for my "parts search vehicle".
I need to get some longer wheel studs as I'm using aluminum rims, and these stock SRW studs are going to be to short for the thick aluminum wheel hub. I have a set of DRW studs to get out of my C&C axle that I will see if they are long enough.
I cleaned the bearings, and races up, and just need to wait on my seals, and brake caliper mounting brackets to come from Kert @ DIY4X.
Iron Maiden on the stands to get to the underside bolts, and such:
Its been so nice out lately that I worked on getting the interior cleaned out for removal of the body.
A utility trailer is your friend:
Man everything smells like mouse p!ss.....not screwdriver sh!t....but mouse p!ss.
I need to get some longer wheel studs as I'm using aluminum rims, and these stock SRW studs are going to be to short for the thick aluminum wheel hub. I have a set of DRW studs to get out of my C&C axle that I will see if they are long enough.
I cleaned the bearings, and races up, and just need to wait on my seals, and brake caliper mounting brackets to come from Kert @ DIY4X.
Iron Maiden on the stands to get to the underside bolts, and such:
Its been so nice out lately that I worked on getting the interior cleaned out for removal of the body.
A utility trailer is your friend:
Man everything smells like mouse p!ss.....not screwdriver sh!t....but mouse p!ss.
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Cost update:
Previous $$$ to date............. $3509
Axle acid stripped.......................65
Detroit Locker..........................394
Discs/Calipers/Pads...................125
Paint, shop stuff........................25
Total to date........................$4118
Total of rear axle build to date: $609
Previous $$$ to date............. $3509
Axle acid stripped.......................65
Detroit Locker..........................394
Discs/Calipers/Pads...................125
Paint, shop stuff........................25
Total to date........................$4118
Total of rear axle build to date: $609
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I took apart the diff, and found a broken spider, and the gear with the broken spider leg, had just been turning in its bore of the diff. It was a little rough, like a spun bearing or something, I cleaned up a few burrs with a file, washed everything in solvent and the new Detroit fits snuggly in the bores. I did find some pieces on the housing magnet, of what must have been that shim, that has lost some of its part. Luckily I don't have to use any of the parts I took out, just replace them all with the Detroit. This thing is like a B-29, takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'.
This bore facing you, is the bad one. I cleaned up the burr on the upper edge with a fine file. The Detroit fit in the 4 bores without movement in any direction. I don't really see where it could move. The rollers in the bearings on the diff looked real good, no scars or wearing to them, the cages looked good, and they roll smoothly, so I don't believe the parts of the desintegrated shim took out any thing.
And the finished deal. These are really easy to put in, much easier than a lockright. Torqued the bolts to 120#, I need to check the splines on the axleshafts to make sure they aren't burred, and give them a trial fit into the Detroit before putting it back in the housing.
This bore facing you, is the bad one. I cleaned up the burr on the upper edge with a fine file. The Detroit fit in the 4 bores without movement in any direction. I don't really see where it could move. The rollers in the bearings on the diff looked real good, no scars or wearing to them, the cages looked good, and they roll smoothly, so I don't believe the parts of the desintegrated shim took out any thing.
And the finished deal. These are really easy to put in, much easier than a lockright. Torqued the bolts to 120#, I need to check the splines on the axleshafts to make sure they aren't burred, and give them a trial fit into the Detroit before putting it back in the housing.
I'm still waiting for parts to finish putting the 14BFF together, so I spent the last 3 days getting the body off the frame.
I plan on having the frame acid stripped, to prep for welding up the kit to box the frame.
I will be taking everything off the frame, hopefully by the end of the week.
I had to make a overhead beam and side support beams to hoist the body up enough to get the chassis out from underneath it. Then it basically is sitting on 6 sawhorses, and a couple HD jack stands.
The frame has some light surface rust on it, but I can still cleary see the numbers stamped into the frame, and support structure underneath the body.
This is very unusual for a MI. truck.
I plan on having the frame acid stripped, to prep for welding up the kit to box the frame.
I will be taking everything off the frame, hopefully by the end of the week.
I had to make a overhead beam and side support beams to hoist the body up enough to get the chassis out from underneath it. Then it basically is sitting on 6 sawhorses, and a couple HD jack stands.
The frame has some light surface rust on it, but I can still cleary see the numbers stamped into the frame, and support structure underneath the body.
This is very unusual for a MI. truck.
Very. Got any history on that truck?
Unless you plan on doing multiple trucks down the road IMO it's not worth buying a bender. You can have a shop build a good cage for $1k or so, a good bender even without software can run that much and you haven't even bought the tubing and plates yet.
I'd call around before you pull the trigger on one.
Not much, the guy I got it from was desparate to get rid of it, and it belonged to his father before that. He bought it new.
I think it showed like 70K on the odom.
The guy I got it from had taken the engine out, to build a circle track motor, and let the thing just sit for like 20 years. Some one did a bunch of panel replacement on it, but its all offshore crap. You know the cheap junk that don't fit well, and if you lean on it, you just got a new dent.
So its great for a trail truck, thats what I bought it for.
