CK5
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Decided that I could save a ton of room and put the bolt in double shear. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1435966786.919464.jpg
I also put a piece of tube behind to locate the joint. I'll plate the sides to make it more rigid.
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Also broke the crap outa my vice pretending it was a brake and bending 3/16 with a 2ft crecent wench.. O well ImageUploadedByTapatalk1435966892.493926.jpg
Also said screw this to the frame and cut the crap out of it just to make clearance. I cannot droop the axle any farther with the short trackbar so the only option was to gain my lost bump travel back. I ended up exactly at the stock location but that's ok because I redid the trackbar mount where I think it's best. I gained 5 inches in length and this should mitigate the side to side motion at droop a bit better. I know the draglink isn't the same length but I had no choice and it is all about compromise. I had to pick one and having the axle swing over 4 inches was not one of them. They should be in the same or close arcs anyway. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1435967098.494355.jpg

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Just measured the change at droop is now 2.5 inches. Completely fine with me. The steering drag link will be 1 inch longer. Also measures the angle at droop and its 20 degrees so the heims should have enough angle for this without being maxed out.
 
Killer Whale (Coilovers,Radius arms, Hardcore Tech!) 79 K5

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Decided to mock the shock up on the driver side, I am glad I did because it's really close in there. I hope I'll have the room.
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Yea, tell me about it, thanks! Hope it works as well as I hope it to. That's 16 inches of travel.. We'll see.
 
Ohh man I am frustrated.. This is like 4 lbs of crap in a 3 lb bag.. Tried to mock up steering today. Got the drag link made up and sleeved the middle with some larger tube to adjust it if I needed. Seems that at droop it is close, but when you bump it out the angle gets really wonky. I know why.. But this still frustrates me..
 
You mean t link? Maybee.. It really depends on how it fits. I really was trying to not bend any of those tubes.. Two reasons, strength and adjustability, I like the ability to spin the drag and trackbar links for alignment etc.. It's a pita to pull the bolt to adjust it.
 
Killer Whale (Coilovers,Radius arms, Hardcore Tech!) 79 K5

Yes z/ t link. Not using an arm and using the hole in the tie rod.
 
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Not sure if you all can see this but check out the room between the diff cover and trackbar.
Originally I wanted to move my axle forward.. Not knowing this was going to cause issues space wise. I move the axle back 1.5 inches and pretty much solved my issues lol. I am going. To lower the trackbar on the farm a little and match the steering angle and call it a day I think.. Might try to fit the steering on the spindle like originally planned.
 
Yea. I'm going it make one or brace the stock one space permitting I might be able to.
 
Killer Whale (Coilovers,Radius arms, Hardcore Tech!) 79 K5

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So, I should put this out here.. You guys are right. There is and has been a lot of advice given regarding this stuff.. And I should listen better. Will next time!
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The main issue was the fact I moved the axle forward 1.5 inches, that caused a whole slew of problems. But now that I moved it back, has remedied quite a few, clearance being one of those.
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I mocked up the steering, I used some 3/4x5/8 tube welded to the tie rod bolt on the tie rod and slipped the heim over the top, this gives me the exact same range of high misalignment without actually having the spacers, I got the angles as close as I could, I don't see any bumpsteer vertically and there might be some at the extremes while turning otherwise it is possible it might not be detectable.
Because they are on two different planes is the reason for this. The drag link is 46.5 inches and the trackbar is 47 inches, the heims 3/4x3/4 are maxed out at 18.5 inches of vertical travel, this is 37 inches from fender to center of hub, the oem bottomed out number is 17.5-18.5 depending on some factors. So pretty much if I hadn't made the drag link longer I'd be limiting the whole setup.
This was nice to find because there various other items preventing anymore wheel travel up or down, upwards the engine crossmember is in the way of the steering now, that's going to be eliminated and replaced with some high clearance version.
The frame and body mounts are in the way and need more trimming.
So I surely believe that this is the absolute max. Finally!
Hopefully in a week or so I can get moving on final fabrication, I have to make a real trackbar bracket that will be strong enough for this, also same for the radius arm pivots.
List for now is a as follows.
Install hydroboost
Order and install winters shifter
Fab engine x member
Fab radius arm x member
Fab engine cage
Finish radius arms
Finish trackbar and steering links
Fab engine cage
Charge, spring and mount shocks
Put air in tires.
Change fluids (all)
Drink beer
Kick Jesse in nuts
Clean up some wiring from fender well removal
Install harnesses
Get cage started

I am probally missing something's..

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