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Alright! I decided to actually try to really tig weld something! I'm not a pro welder I feel I am adequate..
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Round tube is hard at least for me because I can't seem to find a really comfortable position.. I'm working on my consistency also.
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My coworker used to be a machinist so we are going to make some hub covers!

Looks nice. TIG is a really neat process. :thumb:


Looks good!

The hardest part about welding to me is not rushing.

This.
 
Well... I was told the welds I made were too hot and undercut the material.. so in a valiant effort I tried to fill them in.. failed miserably and made it worse. I ended up just mig welding the damn things.. Man the tig welding is very hard to be consistent on...
 
It is tough to learn, especially on tube and with a mig background. I've also failed miserably every time I tried to go back over and fix a weld too, not sure what the secret is there
 
I have a #10 shade so it's pretty damn dark, and I want to Tig because it gives you more control of the heat input, you warp parts a lot less than mig.
 
I have a #10 shade so it's pretty damn dark, and I want to Tig because it gives you more control of the heat input, you warp parts a lot less than mig.


Try finding a #9. I had way better results using a #9 hood. I am not an expert tig welder, probably have just a bit over you. The biggest thing for me was seeing the arc and the puddle better.
 
I'm far from an expert TIG welder but I do have quite a few hours under my belt. Primarily stainless steel welding at work but none-the-less it's super similar to what you're doing.
Number one thing is to get comfortable. I don't know why the other guys I work with don't take the time to get really comfy. It makes a difference.
Also, more filler rod. For some reason a lot of guys don't seem to get enough filler material in there to work with. Maybe it's deceptive because with a solid/stable arc and enough heat your base materials start pooling all on their own...but you need to get some filler rod in there or you'll end up pulling the base material away from somewhere else and get all undercut.
Cool build. I'll follow along.
 
Thanks guys, I'll stick with the mig for now, Dave can tig the rest of the stuff he wants.. Once were done I'll play more with it, I'm not going to waste anymore supplies on messing around.
I picked up the rest of my wheels yesterday and some more tube for the cage and etc.
 
Thanks guys, I'll stick with the mig for now, Dave can tig the rest of the stuff he wants.. Once were done I'll play more with it, I'm not going to waste anymore supplies on messing around.
I picked up the rest of my wheels yesterday and some more tube for the cage and etc.

If you do get a chance to tig again...the biggest thing that helped me is to find the setting where you can floor it with the pedal. It's like setting a Rev limiter so you don't get to crazy.

What motor are you running in this guy?
 
That's the number one mistake, set the pedal where "full throttle" just barely burns through the plate if you sit, then you know you won't undercut as bad, won't burn through, and then it allows you to learn proper feeding techniques without burning through the plate as much.
 
Well then, I dropped close to 1k today on a crap load of parts..
I'll have to take pics of it all, I also took some neat pics of go fast rigs!
:) tommorow you shall see!
 
I ended up poking holes in the body to start the cage!!!
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Sorry the light is so bad, if you can see the upper most hole in the cowl, both sides provide access to the back of the dash, I didn't see any obstructions so I went for it.

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I'm pretty happy there these end up on the floor. Nice and tight.. Just how it should be. There will be frame tie ins throughout the truck.
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I drilled the hole with a 2 1/4 hole saw at 90 degrees like normal the stuffed a long tube in there which is 2 inch and pulled up to flange the hole, this created a super tight fit. If the hole is the same size as the tube it won't stretch as far and will deform the sheet metal too far. I figure 1/8 to 1/4 clearance should be plenty depending on the angle.. It takes some experimentation to get it right..
 
Im trying to teach myself with no oversight, my buddy is there sometimes but never when I am trying this stuff.. its alot of trial and error. and Im not Greg so my stuff doesnt turn out nice!

Be careful with MIG too..... TIG is a pretty unforgiving process and is merciless about showing you when you aren't doing good work. MIG is much better about "hiding" your mistakes under a decent looking bead, but you actually be getting very little penetration into the base metal.

It's good to apply that same kind of TIG discipline with your MIG too... :waytogo:

-G
 
I agree, but I do not have the pedal filler rod feeding down, with my mig I know when it's putting to much heat or not and what to change in my process to adjust it, tig I kinda know what to do but actually doin it is much harder.. Also anything I am welding is not a structural part. And if it is I grind my welds off and have Dave reweld the part so I know it's safe to use. And the last resort is to rebuild it from scratch if I really messed it up.

If you guys have noticed all of the suspension parts I build are only tacked together, I personally have not welded anything because I'm inconsistent. The few parts that I did do are the body picks, the bushing flange for the cantilever and I think that's it.. Daves done the rest. Thanks for the tips please keep them coming.. I need all the help I can get!
 
Get a #10 gold lense. I've used those for 11years, never considered anything else. The gold reflects light back onto the work, gives you a great view.

Your tig welds are to hot, one thing you can try is sharpen the tungsten into a longer point. It will start easier and easier maintain control of the arc. Start your puddle, when you see a small dot form at the front of the puddle start running your filler rod. That dot is a good indicator you have a good temp
 

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