CK5
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'91 K5 Four Wheel Camper

This is the build for my 1991 V1500 Blazer, AKA the K5.3. It started out life being sold to the U.S. Government with a 350 TBI/700r4/241 combo. 4 years with a 5.3/700r4 Combo and now moving to an 8.1L Vortec and NV4500 5-speed.
Can’t wait for the official trip report!!!

It might take a little bit. I'd like everybody else to upload their pics so I have some from a different perspective of mine. I'm going to start writing it offline and then I can fill in the photos when I start posting. Plus the video. It's a lot of trail running that I can speed up to give an idea of the landscape we went through.
 
Coming off of the trip I've had a few small things besides the axle shaft breakage that need attended to. One item of concern was my onboard air compressor. When we aired up for the first time at Cima Jct the compressor popped the inline fuse after filling up the first tire. What I realized is the 30 amp fuse I was running was well under what the compressor was capable for pulling. I was off by a solid 15 amps. By the time I got done airing up I burned through 3 fuses. The next time I aired down I only dropped 10 psi as I didn't need the extra traction, but softer ride on the dirt/washboard. Plus it wouldn't take as much to air up the next time.

The fix for it got put in place today. I cut out the fuse holder for a regular atc fuse and swapped in one that will accept a maxi-fuse. I popped in a 50amp fuse and ran it so I could blow out the camper from the epic level of dust it sucked in. It never quit this time around.

I still have to drop the column and re-route the cable for the shift indicator back through the pivot on the cluster and hook it back onto the column. It popped off at an odd time on the trail with a big "booooiiing" sound. I need to figure out why the odometer quit somewhere on the AZ strip section of the trip. The speedo is still accurate, but the odometer stopped. I think it's either dust or got shaken badly on the miles upon miles of washboard roads we traveled on.

The lower bench had started to pull away from the side panel near the rear of the camper. I have an idea to redesign the bench with a smaller fridge than what Ian brought this time. But that won't happen right now so I just reattached the bench to the side with a couple of L-brackets. It will do for the rest of the summer.

I've got the axle shaft assembly in hand and picked up a Spicer u-joint for it at work yesterday. I need to put them together and get it in before the weekend.
 
Got a little help from Larry popping in the new Spicer joint in the axle assembly while I'm at work. Picked it up on the way home, changed and got right to work. Got everything pulled apart without any fuss and got a closer look at the shaft.

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The ears on the long side have significant gouges in it. Enough to not even worry about putting a new joint in it to make a trail spare. The stub is ok though. Here's the other side of the long shaft.
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Everything is moving along fine. I grabbed the revived shaft assembly and just gave a quick comparison. That when I discovered I got the wrong part. Quick count of the splines on each shows 28 on the new, 30 on the old. A few expletives were shouted. I flipping know better. But trusting others to understand the difference has screwed me again. I specifically told the yard 73-77 DANA 44 axle. NOT a flipping 10 bolt. Now I got to deal with this crap tomorrow and hopefully put my hands on the right part. It pisses me off I didn't count the splines when I got it, but I trusted they got me the right part.

Arrgh.
 
Ooo sucky
Tell me about it. Larry's got my old D44 hidden behind his shop so that's the fallback option. In the morning after talking to the yard that got it for me I'll see if he really wants to get our business or not. The other yard in Penrose has what I need according to Car-part.com. We'll see if he's willing to go fetch and bring it over to me. I've been crazy busy at work and don't have time to go flying around Fremont county on the hunt for this tomorrow. Plus I've already got a new Spicer joint in the other one I really don't feel like popping out as I'll probably end up loosing a needle bearing in the process of popping out of the long shaft.

If that don't pan out I'll just go swipe the one from Larry.
 
You should be ok pulling those. The spicers, especially the newer ones, don’t really do that like a ragged out factory joint
 
I talked with the owner of the yard this morning. I clearly explained the difference. He apologized and found one at the other yard (that isn't his), picked it up and brought it over here to me at the shop.

I'm mooching time from one of my guys here at work to slam the joint in this one. That way I can just put it in when I get home.
 
I've got the axle shaft back in the truck, wheel back on and drove it over to the car wash. Rinsed off all the Effing bird guano off the truck. Priority one when I get back is putting a few BB's into the damn pigeons in my maple tree.

Just need to load the cooler and my duffel bag (no I won't forget it this time) into the truck in the morning. Otherwise, it's ready to roll.
 
Pics coming but made it over red cone pass and back over deer trail and the middle fork of the swan River trail. Long day in the saddle. The truck never gave a issue. Climbed and decended well, but I see hydro-boost in my future. Standing on the brake pedal with both feet while the seat belt is holding you from sliding under the steering wheel due to the extreme angle of the slope is no fun.
 
I had a jeep Cherokee do that to me one time. I told myself that I would never not have enough brakes after that. So what fixed your fuel system issues? Just the exhaust routing?
 
I had a jeep Cherokee do that to me one time. I told myself that I would never not have enough brakes after that. So what fixed your fuel system issues? Just the exhaust routing?

Yeah I don't think the go pro will do the slope justice. It was steep!

Fuel problem was primarily the kinked hose from the pump to the pipe on the sending unit. I did get the right pipe moved inboard 1 1/2 inches too. No more problem there.
 
Yeah I don't think the go pro will do the slope justice. It was steep!

Fuel problem was primarily the kinked hose from the pump to the pipe on the sending unit. I did get the right pipe moved inboard 1 1/2 inches too. No more problem there.
Cool glad you got it fixed. I missed where you figured that out.
 
Not much going on with the Truck lately. Since we did Red Cone it's been to Denver and back for the supercruise in Golden and it's been parked. Waiting it's turn for some more fun. Coming up this weekend we are going to go play in some familiar territory outside of St. Elmo. It will be more of a family deal with my Jeep buddies, but we should have fun none the less. The wife is coming along too for her maiden voyage in the Camper. But first I need to address one nagging issue that popped up on the desert trip and the trip to Red Cone. That's with my onboard air system.

The Smittbilt compressor I have is up to the task now that I've got the correct size fuse for it, however the hose connection at the compressor was my next fail point. All that was there for an output on the compressor was a fairly short nipple for a hose to slide over. When I first put it together I used a higher pressure rating fuel injection style hose clamp on it. It held for most of the desert trip but as the compressor outlet heated up, the hose got softer and the clamp would be loose allowing the hose to pop off the nipple. I put a different clamp on it going into the Red Cone trip, but after the 2nd tire getting aired up, the hose got soft again and it popped off. I reattached it and cranked down the clamp with my electric 1/4" drive Matco impact, but it still ended up failing. I needed a new solution. One that would thread together and not be held with a hose clamp.

I'm certainly not the first to use this compressor this way and probably won't be the last so I surfed the web for a little while to find out a better way to fix it. Many Jeep forum (smittybilt is geared for jeepers for sure) posts indicated the use of a proprietary fitting for these units and no adaptation can be made. Well after digging a little more, this time in a Yota forum of all places it was discovered that it's not a unique proprietary fitting, but just a goofy metric fitting. Goofy because unlike standard 1/4" NPT fittings that are tapered, these are straight. Specifically, it's an M12x1.25 fitting. Amazon had the right metric male M12x1.25 to 1/4" female NPT fitting.

I picked up another hose whip for the connection between the compressor and tank the other day and threw it together tonight with an added twist. The end of the hose whip is also female, so I either needed a male/male union or get an extra quick coupler and threaded nipple and add the ability to disconnect the hose without tools. So I stopped and picked up the quick coupler and nipple (both males) and put it together with some Teflon tape. Besides allowing me to connect the two female fittings together, adding the disconnect allows me to bypass the tank completely if something fails. I can run my inflation hose directly off if the compressor if the need occurs. I like the added redundancy because of both trips before when the hose failed at the compressor I was down to needing to use a buddy's compressor to finish the job.

Pardon the dust, I haven't cleaned anything since the last trip and probably won't before this next one coming. But you can see the added hose connection point. I figured the quick coupler will add a little more surface area to dissipate heat as well.
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I ran the system and topped off the tires in the process. System works. Plus I think I ended up fixing my connection at the tank that was the slow leak. The tank would hold air for a couple of hours, but would not hold it longer than that. My check valve didn't have any Teflon on it and the fitting wasn't tight.
 
Braided steel hose with teflon liner is the only thing I have found that can withstand the heat generated by even a small compressor. Most hydraulic hose shops carry it, Pirtec, Mobile Power Products, Parker Store...... etc
Or of course a section of copper pipe to act as a heat sink.
 
Braided steel hose with teflon liner is the only thing I have found that can withstand the heat generated by even a small compressor. Most hydraulic hose shops carry it, Pirtec, Mobile Power Products, Parker Store...... etc
I bet Pueblo bearing would have it down here. I'll keep that in mind. I did run it long enough tonight to get it hot for sure. The coupler was hot enough I wouldn't try to disconnect it with my bare hand that's for sure. For no more often than I use this I think this hose should last with the factory crimp on the one end. It's rated for 1400psi but not sure at what temp.

Next up is to fix the bench, again. Blow the whole inside out of dust and see about figuring out a way to slow the dust intrusion.
 
Funny that people said there wasn't another fitting like it. I can pretty much guarantee in this day and age there's no such thing on products marketed to the general public. It would just not make sense for a company, especially one like Smittybilt that targets a more budget conscience market, would spend the money to have a special fitting designed and manufactured just for their compressor.
 
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