CK5
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'91 K5 Four Wheel Camper

This is the build for my 1991 V1500 Blazer, AKA the K5.3. It started out life being sold to the U.S. Government with a 350 TBI/700r4/241 combo. 4 years with a 5.3/700r4 Combo and now moving to an 8.1L Vortec and NV4500 5-speed.
I got a line into a buddy to have some EGR valve and EVAP purge solenoid block off plates made. All of a sudden I have 3 friends doing L29 swaps (Rob, Captain Ron, and Ian) so I might as well have a few extras made for anybody else wants in on them. My buddy is probably going to make them out of aluminum like how my Marine L29 intake was. He probably won’t get started on the plates until closer to xmas.
You are too kind Larry. I am hoping it is warm enough tomorrow to go Tomb Raiding in one of my sheds and see exactly how many 4500's I have. Hopefully I have an extra for Rob.
 
I got a line into a buddy to have some EGR valve and EVAP purge solenoid block off plates made. All of a sudden I have 3 friends doing L29 swaps (Rob, Captain Ron, and Ian) so I might as well have a few extras made for anybody else wants in on them. My buddy is probably going to make them out of aluminum like how my Marine L29 intake was. He probably won’t get started on the plates until closer to xmas.

Might add a fourth to the mix. Talked to Andy last night and depending on how the oil burner runs he's probably going the L29 route too. He's probably much further off and wishy-washy anyway so who knows. Having an extra couple wouldn't hurt just in case.

The rat cleaned up fairly well too! Good news on the spark plug condition too. Rattle can rebuild here we come! We'll have the reseal kit next week with valve stem seals.
 
I have regretted not taking the time to re-ring and re-bearing my tired old 350...

Things like a timing chain and oil pump and bearings and rings w/ a dingleball hone are super easy and pretty cheap insurance considering that you're already gonna pull it apart for a reseal...


I spent all the effort and time pulling my 350 to reseal it, but didn't do oil pump and bearings, and now I have 7-9 psi oil pressure on a hot idle...
 
I have regretted not taking the time to re-ring and re-bearing my tired old 350...

Things like a timing chain and oil pump and bearings and rings w/ a dingleball hone are super easy and pretty cheap insurance considering that you're already gonna pull it apart for a reseal...


I spent all the effort and time pulling my 350 to reseal it, but didn't do oil pump and bearings, and now I have 7-9 psi oil pressure on a hot idle...
We are going to pull the cover and check the chain since it's coming off to reseal. The pan is coming off so it's going to be checked and we can make choices from there.

I have checked pricing on the timing chain and I need to confirm if the L29 can use an aftermarket double roller. The stock one is single roller and pricey.
 
Sorry Rob I do not have an extra trans. I have an extra stock 4500 bellhousing ,some shifters and a few slave/masters for the GMT 400 series.
If you want I will go buy the 4500 on C-list in Morrison and you can pay me back when you come pick it up whenever. It is a little pricey
@ $500.00 but that is still cheaper then what I have seen them sell for recently.
 
AA bell is the fallback manuver. Looking at using the later 4500 bell that used the unitized throwout bearing, meaning no fork. The lines come in on the driver's side and should not have any interference. Still need to research the hydraulic parts, but that's the general plan.
 
AA bell is the fallback manuver. Looking at using the later 4500 bell that used the unitized throwout bearing, meaning no fork. The lines come in on the driver's side and should not have any interference. Still need to research the hydraulic parts, but that's the general plan.

Should work fine, but I think the input retainer is different between the two styles. Be sure your case matches your bell.
 
Should work fine, but I think the input retainer is different between the two styles. Be sure your case matches your bell.
Good to know.

I was able to take a measurement from the bellhousing face to the end of the t-case adapter on mine and from the bellhousing face to t-case mounting surface on Larry's suburban. If I'm right they both come in at 27 3/4". So even if I'm off by a 1/2" it's within the amount of slip I have on both shafts.
 
On other fronts, project rear bumper is underway. Piced up a large hunk of 3"x6" 1/4" wall box tube. My buddy Bill has started whittling on my 10 bolt front spindle I picked up months ago. He's already got the spindle cut down and the stub axle cut to fit and welded together. image000000_01.jpg image000000.jpg
 
I'm going to watch what you do on the rear bumper. I already have the box tube. I haven't decided about a spare tire mount.
I will say this a 10 bolt spindle is significantly larger than the trailer spindles sold through the fab shops online.

The plan is to set the swing out on the driver's side since the camper door opens that way. On the other side we will add a platform to store two Jerry cans. The platform won't swing. We will add a handle to allow support while climbing in. One other feature is to have a removable cap on one side to be able to store my fishing poles inside.
 
Spindle and hub are ready to be attached to the bumper. Bill got the hub whittled down today.
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We'll fit it to the main section of the bumper to make sure we have it set in the right place next.
 
When I did mine, I welded the stub down, then used spacers for the spindle. Seemed to work ok, didn't get enough movement to not make the hubs not work.
 
When I did mine, I welded the stub down, then used spacers for the spindle. Seemed to work ok, didn't get enough movement to not make the hubs not work.
I'm told the hub works fine, but will probably change it out for a superwinch as they are a 1/4 to lock/unlock vs the warn at 3/4 turn.

Mean while Bill is on winter break and got some more done. The 2.5" hole saw was a mother to run with him on the other end.
Need to work on some support to the spindle so it's not all on the top side of the box.


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Good work. I bet that was fun to drill!
You haven't met him, but for a guy that's never had the use of his legs he still gets stuff done. But he did say the drill was trying to throw him around a little.
 
You haven't met him, but for a guy that's never had the use of his legs he still gets stuff done. But he did say the drill was trying to throw him around a little.
He used a hand drill! I assumed he used a drill press. { Mental note never arm wrestle Bill }
 
He used a hand drill! I assumed he used a drill press. { Mental note never arm wrestle Bill }

He does have a drill press, but either way would be a wrestling match with him if that saw grabbed wrong. But yeah, he's got forearms like Popeye. He'd probably kick my ass arm wrestling. Outside of seeing his old J10 Jeep hung up on a tree to keep him sliding off a snowy mountain trail, I've yet to see him quit anything. He's a hell of guy that's for sure.
 
Should have sleeved the hub with a pipe before welding. Then the pipe could slip through the whole width of the tube.

Since that's not an option, a couple pieces of plate welded in there will be fine.

Obviously, Bill knows what he's doing and I'm sure he has his own plan cooked up to solve the problem.
 
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