I did a new gear and pump and hoses on my blazer a few years ago and was driving it this morning thinking how tight and nice it steers compared to my super duty that probably needs a gear.
CK5
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'91 K5 Four Wheel Camper
This is the build for my 1991 V1500 Blazer, AKA the K5.3. It started out life being sold to the U.S. Government with a 350 TBI/700r4/241 combo. 4 years with a 5.3/700r4 Combo and now moving to an 8.1L Vortec and NV4500 5-speed.
The great feeling was just hopping in and driving home with it doing so much better.
I've got the ARB twin compressor to install this weekend. We are talking about an overnight validation run to the mountains prior to the desert trip. Not sure if the validation run will happen based on schedules, but it will be in southern Utah at the end of the month.
Nice I still haven't found the time to install my ARB compressor 
Now I need to repair the rear ac blower motor. Better update my thread.
Get out and enjoy, go for a nice over night close and easy, if you have to go with only you and the pup.
Now I need to repair the rear ac blower motor. Better update my thread.
Get out and enjoy, go for a nice over night close and easy, if you have to go with only you and the pup.
As long as I can find my mount for the old compressor I can modify to mount this one I should be good this weekend. Finding it is the challenge.
I did some digging in my boxes to find my old compressor and mount.
Old and busted:
This compressor was ok when it worked but it was not in the same league as an ARB twin. Most people I go wheeling with have one and it was painfully obvious how slow this one was.
New hotness:
I picked it up through work. The idea bouncing around in my brain was reusing the bracket I had the old one on. It sits on the driver side inner fender. It’s really just a universal battery tray I found on a truck in a junkyard.
The twin fits into the tray almost like it was made for it. I will be trimming the high edge on the side opposite to clear the intake filters.
I need to make a run for some fasteners and fittings to plumb it into my existing air tank.
Old and busted:
This compressor was ok when it worked but it was not in the same league as an ARB twin. Most people I go wheeling with have one and it was painfully obvious how slow this one was.
New hotness:
I picked it up through work. The idea bouncing around in my brain was reusing the bracket I had the old one on. It sits on the driver side inner fender. It’s really just a universal battery tray I found on a truck in a junkyard.
The twin fits into the tray almost like it was made for it. I will be trimming the high edge on the side opposite to clear the intake filters.
I need to make a run for some fasteners and fittings to plumb it into my existing air tank.
Twin nice that tray is perfect.
I am going to redo most of not all the add on wiring and relay center I and po put on driver's inner fender, when I do mine. No storage tank, yet,. Will see if it is needed
I am going to redo most of not all the add on wiring and relay center I and po put on driver's inner fender, when I do mine. No storage tank, yet,. Will see if it is needed
Got some stuff done on the compressor mount. On the side closest to the fender I bent the lip down to allow the intake filters to clear. I used riv-nuts to allow the bracket to bolt to the inner fender. I did have to trim down the length of the riv-nuts to clear the bottom of the compressor.
I went through the dirty work to clean it up and paint it yesterday. It came out good. I mocked it into position to verify I got the riv-nuts in the right spot.
Tucks into the unused corner nicely.
Out came the twin to be mounted to the bracket. Fit right in as planned and I put the intake filters on while I was at it.
Back out front with the complete assembly for installation.
Oh, before anybody asks, yes the hood hinge clears the compressor when the hood is closed. It’s close but don’t touch.
All that’s left is the wiring and the plumbing. Both should be easy. I’ve already got a hose coming from the tank. I just need to put a 90 degree elbow on the compressor and a quick disconnect. Wiring is simple. I already have a circuit coming from a compressor switch inside that is in the engine compartment. Just needs re-routed to the compressor. I won’t be using the main ARB switch harness that came in the kit. At least not yet until I get an air locker. Switch pros sells a basic harness that plugs into the compressor and only has three wires. One for the compressor turn on signal and the other two would normally go to the locker solenoids.
The main power circuits will get shortened to eliminate some bulk I won’t need.
I went through the dirty work to clean it up and paint it yesterday. It came out good. I mocked it into position to verify I got the riv-nuts in the right spot.
Tucks into the unused corner nicely.
Out came the twin to be mounted to the bracket. Fit right in as planned and I put the intake filters on while I was at it.
Back out front with the complete assembly for installation.
Oh, before anybody asks, yes the hood hinge clears the compressor when the hood is closed. It’s close but don’t touch.
All that’s left is the wiring and the plumbing. Both should be easy. I’ve already got a hose coming from the tank. I just need to put a 90 degree elbow on the compressor and a quick disconnect. Wiring is simple. I already have a circuit coming from a compressor switch inside that is in the engine compartment. Just needs re-routed to the compressor. I won’t be using the main ARB switch harness that came in the kit. At least not yet until I get an air locker. Switch pros sells a basic harness that plugs into the compressor and only has three wires. One for the compressor turn on signal and the other two would normally go to the locker solenoids.
The main power circuits will get shortened to eliminate some bulk I won’t need.
Got the main power feed completed. Had to remount the junction blocks to the fender in the process.
I needed to change things around this time though. The positive junction block was being fed with a 12/14 gauge wire with a 20 amp inline fuse. The two main power circuits to the twin have 40 amp maxi fuses on them with 8 gauge wires. So the little lead in wire and fuse were not going to cut it.
I picked up some 6 gauge cable
and a 60 amp resettable circuit breaker. Which required a new tool in the form of a hydraulic crimper.
I love how the tool does the job. So clean.
I got it all wired in on the high current side. I added another 40 amp resettable circuit breaker to pull a new 6 gauge circuit to the camper to replace the 10 gauge I put in there before. Still need to pull the cable through. But they are both mounted to the inner fender with riv-nuts.
I located my switch circuit and tested it. But I’m not getting power from the switch so I need to back track and figure out what’s up.
I needed to change things around this time though. The positive junction block was being fed with a 12/14 gauge wire with a 20 amp inline fuse. The two main power circuits to the twin have 40 amp maxi fuses on them with 8 gauge wires. So the little lead in wire and fuse were not going to cut it.
I picked up some 6 gauge cable
and a 60 amp resettable circuit breaker. Which required a new tool in the form of a hydraulic crimper.
I love how the tool does the job. So clean.
I got it all wired in on the high current side. I added another 40 amp resettable circuit breaker to pull a new 6 gauge circuit to the camper to replace the 10 gauge I put in there before. Still need to pull the cable through. But they are both mounted to the inner fender with riv-nuts.
I located my switch circuit and tested it. But I’m not getting power from the switch so I need to back track and figure out what’s up.
I love my hydraulic crimper.
I borrowed Larry’s in the past. Even broke it and had to replace it.
The die sizing does not make sense though. The 6ga die bottomed out before it squeezed the end at all. As I found on Larry’s if you keep cranking the hydraulic side has enough power to snap the end of the tool in half.
Ended up using the 8ga does and it crimped perfectly.
Awesome rig!!
I don’t understand the die sizing either. I just put them in and then insert bare wire and crank it down and see how tight it gets on the wire and go from there.
Reminded me I've been wanting to get one of those crimpers.
The ARB Compressor installation is complete. It was a bit of a fight as I pruned some extra crap off the tank to eliminate extra connections and leak points. But the system works.
The power wire for the switch was just in the wrong slot on the fuse panel. I extended the circuit under the hood and made the connection to the arb harness.
I’m happy it’s done. I can move on to running the new power circuit to the camper.
The power wire for the switch was just in the wrong slot on the fuse panel. I extended the circuit under the hood and made the connection to the arb harness.
I’m happy it’s done. I can move on to running the new power circuit to the camper.
Pics. Almost forgot. 
Wasn’t planning on any new items added prior to the desert trip this year but my tach went on the fritz last week when I took it to work. I put up with the inaccuracy because of the effort it took to make the gauge overlay look like the rest of the gauges.
But when the needle points straight down and barely moves to the 1 mark it’s time to get a new one. That tach was in my old 75 that I bought back in 2003. It had a good run.
So I scrambled and got a decent AutoMeter unit in to replace it. Much better.
I did replace the incandescent 194 for a white LED bulb to match the rest of the gauges.
The truck is cleaned out. Ready to pack. I’m behind by a day with stupid things coming up. Should have packed tonight to be able to leave tomorrow after work but that’s out the window now.
My camp cooking gear box is refreshed with new organization. Molle panels are pretty trick. I’ve added to vertical packs on the sides for taller stuff. Works so well.
Pack tomorrow. Head to Pueblo Saturday morning.
But when the needle points straight down and barely moves to the 1 mark it’s time to get a new one. That tach was in my old 75 that I bought back in 2003. It had a good run.
So I scrambled and got a decent AutoMeter unit in to replace it. Much better.
I did replace the incandescent 194 for a white LED bulb to match the rest of the gauges.
The truck is cleaned out. Ready to pack. I’m behind by a day with stupid things coming up. Should have packed tonight to be able to leave tomorrow after work but that’s out the window now.
My camp cooking gear box is refreshed with new organization. Molle panels are pretty trick. I’ve added to vertical packs on the sides for taller stuff. Works so well.
Pack tomorrow. Head to Pueblo Saturday morning.
Where you guys going this year? Not sure if I missed it or you didn't say.
Didn’t say. But the general idea is to meet in Hanksville Sunday afternoon. Head south for the Henry mountains. Set up camp, have some beers and stare at the map for the next days route.
Years past I’ve lined out every day and the plan gets changed by day two. So the only plan is day one and the rest is on the fly from there. Only constraint is we plan on being back by the following weekend. But we do have a little wiggle room for a day.
We’ll see where the wind takes us.
The Manti Lasal by me is super green and nice right now so the Henry's should be too I bet. Bryce, or close to it, is on fire so avoid that way down south. We came from Cedar City up through the middle of the state on hwy 89 a few weeks ago and it's super nice in those mtns too. So many places I want to go check out and roads to travel. Have fun!
