chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
Man thats a fugly truck
Looks like you laid some paint on the frame, arms and coils??
Looks like you laid some paint on the frame, arms and coils??CK5
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'94 Dodge service truck DD/Tow rig build
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
Well if I had money I'd pay a shop to finish straightening it out and shoot it black. BUT seeing as black shows everything I'll stick to white. It's not going to be ultra straight I just want to get the major stuff straightened out in the driveway and shoot it white so I can get back to working on my trail truck.
I need to get gauges, do a full fluid/filter change and I've been looking into TST's power pack for the 12v's.
Oh and I need to get the exhaust brake working. Well ok it looks like I've got quite a bit to do still.
Man thats a fugly truck
That's easy to say with your fancy computer controlled fake cummins with your straight sheetmetal and one color paint.
At the end of the day my 12v and handshaker will make it to the top of the 4 lanes just as fast as you guys but I'll have 1/4 of what you guys have into your trucks.
Yep, I steam cleaned the front of the truck off at work and that night when I got home I sprayed it with a couple coats of rustoleum gloss black.
My friend found me a fender for the passenger side. Picked it up for $50 and got it mounted this morning...
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
Hey that looks good, were you able to use the antenna?
Nah I just swapped my antenna onto the new fender. You can't really cut those cables and my antenna was the same exact one as on the new fender so it worked out.
Looking good Avery.
What do you guys think for paint? I'm kinda at that stage now...
I need to pop one more dent out of the driver's side fender and then it is what it is. I don't have the money or skills to get it any straighter but I want to get it all one color.
So I was thinking either sand, clean and primer myself then have a shop do a basic single stage white paint job.
OR should I attempt to do it myself? I could setup a makeshift booth in the driveway and get it all sealed in with good ventilation. I'm not sure if I could make it look decent or not, I don't have any experience painting stuff that matters
I have been looking at some single stage paint kits from Summit.
Any thoughts on this?
Oh and the freaking transfercase is giving me issues now. I found a tiny crack in the bottom of it yesterday so I drained it, cleaned it up and JB Welded the crack and surprisingly it held quite well. Well today I get home and notice it's dripping again so I check it out and it's leaking from where the tail of the TC bolts to the housing. I'm thinking I'll just drop it in the next couple weeks and go through it. Open it up and check for internal damage then clean it all up, re-seal it and bolt it back up. I don't mind a little drip here and there but I can't handle puddles.
I need to pop one more dent out of the driver's side fender and then it is what it is. I don't have the money or skills to get it any straighter but I want to get it all one color.
So I was thinking either sand, clean and primer myself then have a shop do a basic single stage white paint job.
OR should I attempt to do it myself? I could setup a makeshift booth in the driveway and get it all sealed in with good ventilation. I'm not sure if I could make it look decent or not, I don't have any experience painting stuff that matters
I have been looking at some single stage paint kits from Summit.
Any thoughts on this?
Oh and the freaking transfercase is giving me issues now. I found a tiny crack in the bottom of it yesterday so I drained it, cleaned it up and JB Welded the crack and surprisingly it held quite well. Well today I get home and notice it's dripping again so I check it out and it's leaking from where the tail of the TC bolts to the housing. I'm thinking I'll just drop it in the next couple weeks and go through it. Open it up and check for internal damage then clean it all up, re-seal it and bolt it back up. I don't mind a little drip here and there but I can't handle puddles.
Paint can produce some tough decisions to have to be made.
It's very difficult for an amateur to get a professional looking paint job without the tools, DETAILED know how, and a booth.
First thing to do is to decide how much money you can afford to spend on paint, then 2x it and save up.
Next is how good of a job you want as far as removing parts. A cheap paint job consists of masking off door handles, emblems, mirrors, etc. A better job obviously involves removing all that stuff.
I have had a lot of paint experience, I've had Maaco do a vehicle for me, I painted a vehicle myself, I had GOOD shop do one for me. I also took apart a truck, sanded it down, and hauled it to a Miracle for them to finish the job. Maaco jobs look good at first, but they don't remove anything, just mask around it. They also don't prep worth a darn, my K30 (the maaco vehicle) has paint flaking off in a bunch of hard to sand spots because of the horrible in a rush prep job they do.
Next was my K5, I painted it myself. I had a bunch of problems. I didn't get the truck sealed right because on the final coat of clear ( when I was nearly done) I had something bleed through and crinkle the clear. After a few days of asking around, I came to the conclusion it wasn't from the new products I was applying, but from something in the old primer, essentially the first layer on the bare metal that I had left as a base. Not to mention, dirt in my paint, runs, streaks, etc.... I did not get a finished product I could be proud of. Granted, I was doing a 2 stage black with pearl and color in the clear.
This is where I just took it to my local body shop and they did a killer job on it, as you've seen in the pics.
My advise, if you are short on cash, is to take the truck apart yourself, sand it really good, and take it to a miracle or Maaco and let them do the final prep sand, primer, and your paint. Then you put the truck back together. This is probably the cheapest way to do it, while getting the best results possible. No shop labor tearing the truck down, and YOU are able to get all the corners and tough spots sanded good so the paint will stick.
Report back with a budget in mind, that should help with getting you in the right direction.
It's very difficult for an amateur to get a professional looking paint job without the tools, DETAILED know how, and a booth.
First thing to do is to decide how much money you can afford to spend on paint, then 2x it and save up.
Next is how good of a job you want as far as removing parts. A cheap paint job consists of masking off door handles, emblems, mirrors, etc. A better job obviously involves removing all that stuff.
I have had a lot of paint experience, I've had Maaco do a vehicle for me, I painted a vehicle myself, I had GOOD shop do one for me. I also took apart a truck, sanded it down, and hauled it to a Miracle for them to finish the job. Maaco jobs look good at first, but they don't remove anything, just mask around it. They also don't prep worth a darn, my K30 (the maaco vehicle) has paint flaking off in a bunch of hard to sand spots because of the horrible in a rush prep job they do.
Next was my K5, I painted it myself. I had a bunch of problems. I didn't get the truck sealed right because on the final coat of clear ( when I was nearly done) I had something bleed through and crinkle the clear. After a few days of asking around, I came to the conclusion it wasn't from the new products I was applying, but from something in the old primer, essentially the first layer on the bare metal that I had left as a base. Not to mention, dirt in my paint, runs, streaks, etc.... I did not get a finished product I could be proud of. Granted, I was doing a 2 stage black with pearl and color in the clear.
This is where I just took it to my local body shop and they did a killer job on it, as you've seen in the pics.
My advise, if you are short on cash, is to take the truck apart yourself, sand it really good, and take it to a miracle or Maaco and let them do the final prep sand, primer, and your paint. Then you put the truck back together. This is probably the cheapest way to do it, while getting the best results possible. No shop labor tearing the truck down, and YOU are able to get all the corners and tough spots sanded good so the paint will stick.
Report back with a budget in mind, that should help with getting you in the right direction.
My problem is I have no budget. I used to have a "truck" budget of about $150 a month. Well I sold my truck with a payment and thus saved about $400 a month between the payment and insurance vs my paid for truck and it's cheaper insurance. So at this point I'll throw $550 a month into the dodge or more just to get it "done" so I can get back to saving and building the k10.
What do you want to try to do? Do you have the tools and know how to sand the truck down and do some body work?
I have other stuff to deal with so I just want it one color. I'll be honest here was my plan, use my pneumatic orbital to sand down any shine on the passenger door/fender and completely sand the hood and top of the cab down to metal (they're almost stripped already) then tape off/remove everything. Wipe it down, buy a cheap HPLV gun and spray some primer on it then spray a single stage white and call it good. Whatcha' think?
So essentially leave the driver side door and utility body untouched? It's not a bad plan. I'd spray it outside on a calm sunny day actually. Garages have dust in them, bad ventilation, and inadequate lighting. Your chances on dust are just as good outside with no breeze and at least you don't poison yourself and you cant beat the sun for lighting.
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
This sounds good and def do it outside on a calm sunny day. I would do door jams and inside doors too.
Well I'd need to strip some stickers off the utility bed but otherwise yeah.
Come May when we get consistent 85*+ days I'll get more serious about painting it. I need to pay the registration, get gauges, some taller tires and re-seal the transfercase so I'll be busy the next couple weeks while I wait for warm days.
Dropped the case today to finally get to the bottom of my major leak. Looks like there was no RTV between the halves, it all squished out when whoever last bolted it together. I need to replace one part for sure, maybe more. I have a friend that is going to come over and take a look and we'll go from there.
Here's some blurry pics
Here's some blurry pics
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
Yup its grimmy in there.
Time to update this thread. I finished rebuilding the 241 and got it back in with a new chain and I picked up one of those rear snap ring fix-it kits while I was in there.
I put together a removable rack for hauling 20' pieces of tube and stuff tonight. I wanted something specifically for this that could be removed and easily stored in the garage. I store my trailer at a friend's house from church and it's about a 25 minute drive in the opposite direction of where I pick up material so I needed to do something besides waste all that time and gas every time I want something.
I set it up so I can still haul a 4x8 sheet of wood/metal and close the tailgate. That's why the front tube is notched into the back of the bed.
I ordered up a couple gussets from DIY4X so I'll grind the paint off and put some gussets here and there but here's what I came up with...
I put together a removable rack for hauling 20' pieces of tube and stuff tonight. I wanted something specifically for this that could be removed and easily stored in the garage. I store my trailer at a friend's house from church and it's about a 25 minute drive in the opposite direction of where I pick up material so I needed to do something besides waste all that time and gas every time I want something.
I set it up so I can still haul a 4x8 sheet of wood/metal and close the tailgate. That's why the front tube is notched into the back of the bed.
I ordered up a couple gussets from DIY4X so I'll grind the paint off and put some gussets here and there but here's what I came up with...
Oh and there's a bunch of primer on the bed because I spent an evening the other night welding up the hundreds (or so it seemed ) holes that were in it.
) holes that were in it.
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
looks like a pretty useful rack. Should get you lots more tubing for your buggy... I mean truck
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
Veery nice. Are you going to gets some tube in By this Sun??
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