CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'94 Dodge service truck DD/Tow rig build

Each turbo has to have its own feed and drain. The drain for the second turbo has to be added to the pan, it must drain straight down.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
I could see fabbing up the tubing, getting everything mounted, re-working the exhaust, etc but what do you guys do for oiling? Can you just plump it all together in a straight shot with a single return line or is there more to it than that?

I'll start keeping my eyes open for a HX50 or ht3b. What's the stock application for an ht3b?
dont remember the stock apps of them, but if you watch fleabay and CF you should find one for a decent price. i remember for awhile they were going for like $500ish.

be careful of buying a chinese one on ebay tho.
and dont forget, with more air your gonna need a lot more fuel to even it out. should be a pretty strong tow rig after that.
 
Ht3b and ht4c I've seen on N14s, nt855s

Iirc my 3b had a 23cm housing on it not 19. I think that's about the smallest you can get. Look for small turbine housing, avoid the big ones. My 4c has a 32cm housing on it, what a monstrosity, you need a metric**** ton of fuel and rpm to light it.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
Whoa whoa whoa...... Avery, forget twin turbos.:doah: You do not need them, or even have enough fuel for them. If you did, you'd then have head problems. That is a whole mess of money sucking issues and down time you don't want.

You actually have very little to no problem at all. *1200 is fine. Cummins says you can run *1250 continuous, and *1350 for short bursts. So, if my facts are right you can pull the grape vine from bottom to top ( an hour pull) at *1250 non stop.

The second thing is you are doing 50mph, that is 5mph short of the speed limit, not bad if you ask me.

I am not familiar with your "4 lane" since I live over 100 miles north of you, but I was once up there by I think Bass lake IIRC. I don't remember any monster hills. Here in California, it's pretty tough to find REALLY long hills other than the grape vine and the sisku's up at the Oregon border. I pull Hwy 108 all winter long with snowmobiling, and that highway is similar to what you are probably talking about. There is no hills that I worry about being to long to melt much.
 
he wont need studs if he gates it appropriately. but its definitly a slippery slope as far as power, if he touches the turbo at all, than he's going to need more fuel, and if he's going to spend the money to upgrade he "might as well" do it right, with a budget set of twins over a single.
 
Whoa whoa whoa...... Avery, forget twin turbos.:doah: You do not need them, or even have enough fuel for them. If you did, you'd then have head problems. That is a whole mess of money sucking issues and down time you don't want.

You actually have very little to no problem at all. *1200 is fine. Cummins says you can run *1250 continuous, and *1350 for short bursts. So, if my facts are right you can pull the grape vine from bottom to top ( an hour pull) at *1250 non stop.

The second thing is you are doing 50mph, that is 5mph short of the speed limit, not bad if you ask me.

I am not familiar with your "4 lane" since I live over 100 miles north of you, but I was once up there by I think Bass lake IIRC. I don't remember any monster hills. Here in California, it's pretty tough to find REALLY long hills other than the grape vine and the sisku's up at the Oregon border. I pull Hwy 108 all winter long with snowmobiling, and that highway is similar to what you are probably talking about. There is no hills that I worry about being to long to melt much.

Oh I thought you were closer to me than that. I just feel like I'm right on the border and I'm "only" pulling about 7k pounds. I had originally mentioned water meth but had heard some problems with it and everyone said more air is a better solution.
I'll get my new clutch and go from there.

Oh bass lake is up 41 going north out of Fresno. The pull I'm talking about is up 168 heading to shaver.
 
While true you would do just fine with a 62mm single. Nothing beats the well rounded twins. For functionality and cool factor. The p pump will give you as much or as little fuel as you desire. There's no super costly mods there. You need to have the fuel to make the boost. Between a zero plate, delivery valves and some slightly bigger injectors. You've got all the fuel you'll need.


You use the second port on the filter head for the second oil feed.

1840fa4d-4ee0-78dc.jpg



1840fa4d-4fcf-fc5d.jpg


As you can see, there's no boss cast in the 12v blocks for the second drain. So you have to weld a bung onto the side of the pan, and punch it through after you weld it. All very easy stuff. Although the 24v blocks have a boss and cup plug already there.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
Oh I thought you were closer to me than that. I just feel like I'm right on the border and I'm "only" pulling about 7k pounds. I had originally mentioned water meth but had heard some problems with it and everyone said more air is a better solution.
I'll get my new clutch and go from there.

Oh bass lake is up 41 going north out of Fresno. The pull I'm talking about is up 168 heading to shaver.

Some of these guys get all hot and bothered over twins and big fuel, (which is fine if that is what they like) but a simple setup is hard to beat. I've been daily driving, racing, towing, you name it with 350HP. I tow as heavy as 23,000lbs behind me, and gross over 30K, 350HP is all I need, and has been for over 100000 miles for me.

If I were you, needing something reliable, good fuel mileage, and that would do just fine pulling 7K, I would stay with simple. I would get the clutch in that you need, an air intake, opened up exhaust, a decent turbo like an HX35 because it's all the air you need, and drive the truck for 100000 miles.
 
Well after just driving across the province for the last 7 hours. I've had time to contemplate the meaning of life and such things, so I think you have a root problem in your system. Although you haven't said how much boost you're seeing, or if you have the wastegate dissabled. You should have an hx35 as stock turbo, the h1wc went away with the ve pump I'm pretty sure. I'd the rest of the fuel settings are stock, I think you have a boost leak, the timing has slipped excessively, or the wastegate is sticking maybe slightly open. The stock clutch in good shape will hold 300hp I've seen upto 350hp on a stocker. Pull that plate back some right now will take care of the egt issue immediately. But check and set the timing, and pressure test the cac and intake system for leaks. Then I bet you can slide the plate forward again and be cosher.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
You should have an hx35 as stock turbo, the h1wc went away with the ve pump I'm pretty sure.

The HX35 did not start until mid 95, all 94's had the WH1C, now that may have been different between autos and manuals but I know for certain my early 95 auto had an WH1C and my friends 94 did as well. IIRC the VE trucks had an H1C , then the WH1C came out which I believe is really close to an HX35 but has a 2mm smaller comp wheel (I think :D)




I'd the rest of the fuel settings are stock, I think you have a boost leak, the timing has slipped excessively, or the wastegate is sticking maybe slightly open. .

I was wondering about the timing as well, even my 71k mile 95 had slipped approx 2 degrees when we re timed it.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

Has it been asked about boost #'s ??
 
I put a "boost elbow" in when I did the fuel plate but I've never been able to hit more than 20ish pounds.

I put my 0 fuel plate just barely slid forward from the stock location.

Where is the best place to pressurize the system? Just take it to 25psi or so and start spraying everything with soapy water?
 
you need to pull the tubes off the Intercooler and make some caps that fit in the rubber
boot to seal the outlets.

Drill and tap one of the outlets for a pipe fitting install a gauge and and a 1/4 turn valve.

pressurize the aftercooler to 50PSI and close valve check for obvious leaks with soapy water

if no leaks are obvious I'd say its fine but it wouldn't hurt to see how long it takes to leak down.

Check all your rubber boots for tears .... thats about it
 
Can I make a plug with a valve that fits the intake side of the turbo and test that way (so Its pressuring the whole system, even up to the afc housing) or will too much air leak past the valves?
 
You're not making enough boost at 20psi with your rig up. It should be far higher. Yes you should test the I.take system as a whole and isolate the cac. Detroit series 60s call the cac spec at maximum 10psi loss from 30psi over 15seconds. Now you'd want yours much tighter, ideally zero loss over 15sec from 30psi.

Pressurized the whole intake will bleed past the valves but you'll find boot leaks, intake gasket leaks. Spray soapy water.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
Whoa whoa whoa...... Avery, forget twin turbos.:doah: You do not need them, or even have enough fuel for them. If you did, you'd then have head problems. That is a whole mess of money sucking issues and down time you don't want.

You actually have very little to no problem at all. *1200 is fine. Cummins says you can run *1250 continuous, and *1350 for short bursts. So, if my facts are right you can pull the grape vine from bottom to top ( an hour pull) at *1250 non stop.

The second thing is you are doing 50mph, that is 5mph short of the speed limit, not bad if you ask me.

I am not familiar with your "4 lane" since I live over 100 miles north of you, but I was once up there by I think Bass lake IIRC. I don't remember any monster hills. Here in California, it's pretty tough to find REALLY long hills other than the grape vine and the sisku's up at the Oregon border. I pull Hwy 108 all winter long with snowmobiling, and that highway is similar to what you are probably talking about. There is no hills that I worry about being to long to melt much.
Man I have this discussion all the time with some people, because of the internet now people see lots of modifications done all the time and immediately assume they need it too, without really knowing if they need it.
It's like hypocondriacs, they are constantly learning about all kinds of deseases and when they see a symptom they COULD interpret as one of theirs, it's ON, they have the desease.:dunno:
I just spent some time talking a guy out of twin sticking his 205 which he doesn't own yet, in a truck he can't drive, and has yet to discover what wheeling is about.
Just drive it enjoy it, and watch for problems, and fix them as they arise, and as for EGT temps, just monitor it, and don't freak out just yet, your range is acceptable for extended times, spend the money and the fab time on something more usefull.:waytogo:
 
Bringing this back up for an update I've wanted to do for a long time. I couldn't bring myself to buy the tires I wanted for this truck because the previous owner put brand new toyo at's on it right before I bought it but they were 245's and stupid small.

So this weekend we were at Pismo and I was surfing the san luis obispo craigslist in case there was anything good I needed to snag on the way back to Fresno and sure enough there was a guy selling three new 295/75-16 BFG AT's. I already had a set of them but the tread was too low for me to trust running them on my DD. So I scooped them up for cheap and today bought a new one to make a set. Looks so much better IMO and it brought my highway rpm's down to a reasonable level.
I thought I might have to get a coil spacer up front but my dad and I drove it around this morning on some errands and it's good, no rub at all.


IMAG0242.jpg

IMAG0243.jpg

IMAG0244.jpg

IMAG0245.jpg

IMAG0246.jpg

IMAG0249.jpg
 
Thanks, it needs a light bar on the bumper and some more gear in the back and it'll be my own little chase truck. :)

While we're on the topic, what do you guys think about two tone? From the day we painted it my dad and I have thought about doing the bottom black. In that first picture you can see the black on the front bumper lines up with the top body line which also lines up with the top of the wheel well on the service bed. We were thinking of doing everything below that in satin black to match the satin white. Thoughts?
 
i always was a fan of doing lineX/ hurculiner on that. bcuz the lines on the bumper match perfectly with the lines on the body on the second gens. plus with bigger/more aggressive tires, it helps to keep from developing a lot of bad rock rash behind the tires. i had that problem a lot just on 35s even with the factory mud flaps.

but yes, as far as painted two tone it would look sharp. either a black or a darker grey would also pop.
 
i always was a fan of doing lineX/ hurculiner on that. bcuz the lines on the bumper match perfectly with the lines on the body on the second gens. plus with bigger/more aggressive tires, it helps to keep from developing a lot of bad rock rash behind the tires. i had that problem a lot just on 35s even with the factory mud flaps.

but yes, as far as painted two tone it would look sharp. either a black or a darker grey would also pop.


I second the bedliner, just go with one of the smoother ones, so it will clean well. The rougher ones tend to collect dirt.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom