Nope nothing like that, and the lowest setting on my welder is still a little warm.
I'm using .030 flux core so thats part of the problem too.
I'm using .030 flux core so thats part of the problem too.
CK5
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"Hardcore" 89 (Black and Blue). IT RUNS, DRIVES, AND STOPS. BUILD ON HOLD
- Thread starter MTBLAZER89
- Start date
Explain your spooning technique. OK, that didn't sound right.
Help a nOOb welder who has some sheetmetal welding in his future.
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Explain your spooning technique. OK, that didn't sound right.
Help a nOOb welder who has some sheetmetal welding in his future.
You can buy them at weld shops, I've even seen them at HF...
You can make one by smashing a copper tube in a vise, then hammer it until it's thin and smooth...
In corners you can use copper angle if you can find it... Just clamp is in place and go...
When welding on sheet or filling holes you put the spoon behind where you are welding... It will help draw heat away quicker and the weld doesn't stick to the copper... This will help stop from having the weld drip or blow threw...
Here's a pic of one...
Here's one that a guy made using copper pipe...
Body guys have been using them for years...
I've seen them at HF too, I just never knew how to use one. Just hold behind the weld for thin sheet metal?
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Yep, it takes some practice... But if you're doing a lot of sheet metal work, it'll be worth it...
Ok got these doors mostly finished up. Just need to clean up around the welds a little bit and paint.
Not the greatest welds, but I am far from ok at welding sheet metal. I did lots of small tacks all the way around, but they are not stacked. I think they should hold, and if not lesson learned for the next set.
Still trying to figure out what to do for a handle. The rod sticking out of the hole is the rod that originally went to the inner latch. Pull straight out and it unlatches, but I don't just want that rod rattling around.
I am also considering a 2x2 crossbar in there since i cut them so low.
Crossbar ideas? :?:
Not the greatest welds, but I am far from ok at welding sheet metal. I did lots of small tacks all the way around, but they are not stacked. I think they should hold, and if not lesson learned for the next set.
Still trying to figure out what to do for a handle. The rod sticking out of the hole is the rod that originally went to the inner latch. Pull straight out and it unlatches, but I don't just want that rod rattling around.
I am also considering a 2x2 crossbar in there since i cut them so low.
Crossbar ideas? :?:
How about a net like for a window? Gets the job done and no fab work needed plus you just unsnap it and you're out of there.
you need something to put your arm on for sure, i like the first single bar.
also for the rod rattling aroun, can you squeeze in shock bushings or pcv valve rubbers?
also for the rod rattling aroun, can you squeeze in shock bushings or pcv valve rubbers?
I may just wheel it with these once, and see if I want a bar in there at all.
OH! On a side note 9 years ago today I got my K5
OH! On a side note 9 years ago today I got my K5
Party!! Your house!!!
Hmm either of those might work. Its a 1" hole. I could do that with a T-handle, or just a knob even.
Maybe I can get a couple of ejection seat handles from work
Sounds good BYOB
blazenbaja_67
1/2 ton status
Those look pretty good I think I have seen a pair like that some where
Yours are a lot nicer than mine! I just cut my templates to match my body damage 
I actually saw yours when I was searching for half door pictures.
I actually saw yours when I was searching for half door pictures.
Hmm either of those might work. Its a 1" hole. I could do that with a T-handle, or just a knob even.
Maybe I can get a couple of ejection seat handles from work
Sounds good BYOB
Get a whole ejection seat and make it a full vert. If it starts to roll, punch out.
Get a whole ejection seat and make it a full vert. If it starts to roll, punch out.
That may be a little harder to "aquire" Plus they are not very comfortable, but they do have parchutes
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
I'd put the bar in there Brian... It's nice to lean on when your looking out at the tires... It will also help if you need to slide on a tree...
I agree it is nice to lean on. My only concernis what is going to happen when I do lean it on a tree? Because it will just be attached to the cap plates? 
Almost done!
All prepped for the $5 paint job. I think the painters tape cost the most, but I dont wanna get paint on my trim strips. I kept them on there to prevent door dings 8-)
I found some shock bushings at Vatozone and dremeled a groove in them to make them a grommet. It will keep the door latch rod from rattling at least. I think I messed up the latch on the driver door messing with that rod. I may just climb in and out and have a latch for the passenger if/when I have one
:
Primed all the bare metal
This is the cross bar I am going to go with for now. Due to the custom shape of my doors its hard to get anything to fit square in the doors. I didn't do any meauring when i cut so everything is at different angles. Had to fill a couple gaps when I welded these in. I wanted to add a bar like in my drawing, but do to the fact these bars are almost flush the body line the upper bar would have to have multiple plane bends to match up, and that seems not worth the trouble right now.
All painted.
All prepped for the $5 paint job. I think the painters tape cost the most, but I dont wanna get paint on my trim strips. I kept them on there to prevent door dings 8-)
I found some shock bushings at Vatozone and dremeled a groove in them to make them a grommet. It will keep the door latch rod from rattling at least. I think I messed up the latch on the driver door messing with that rod. I may just climb in and out and have a latch for the passenger if/when I have one
:
Primed all the bare metal
This is the cross bar I am going to go with for now. Due to the custom shape of my doors its hard to get anything to fit square in the doors. I didn't do any meauring when i cut so everything is at different angles. Had to fill a couple gaps when I welded these in. I wanted to add a bar like in my drawing, but do to the fact these bars are almost flush the body line the upper bar would have to have multiple plane bends to match up, and that seems not worth the trouble right now.
All painted.
Finished painting them and got the doors hung. They are much easier to work with now that they only weigh 25 lbs
I got the latch working on both doors now. I just welded a T handle on each rod for now. If I end up building another set I may incorporate a handle. We'll see how long this set lasts
Mt little helper on fathers day. My next project is to re-glue my rear view mirror back on the windshield since it just "fell off" while he was cleaning it
I am happy with how they turned out. The bar is at a good level to lean on when I lean out, but not so high I cant climb in over it easily.
Only problem is now the rest of the paint looks even worse!
I got the latch working on both doors now. I just welded a T handle on each rod for now. If I end up building another set I may incorporate a handle. We'll see how long this set lasts
Mt little helper on fathers day. My next project is to re-glue my rear view mirror back on the windshield since it just "fell off" while he was cleaning it
I am happy with how they turned out. The bar is at a good level to lean on when I lean out, but not so high I cant climb in over it easily.
Only problem is now the rest of the paint looks even worse!
looks like its time for a 50 dollar paint job 
