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Howdiy's halfassed 4 link

I built my own crossmember to mount my links at the frame.
Its 2x3 .25 tubing with braces to my 3 link front X member and up to
the cab mount crossmember. It keeps the links nearly level at ride height and the mounts are adjustable (from Ballistic Fabrication)

I have adjusted the links several times and found it best on my rig to have my A/S at about 60 percent.

X member 82.JPG

X member 80.JPG
 
That hangs pretty low, have you crawled with it yet? Have any problems hanging up on stuff?
 
I used these brackets so I can fine tune my rear link suspension.
You'll more than likely need to triangulate your lowers to get oyur roll axis in check.
IMG_0003.jpg

I was playing with the numbers and it definately needs to be double triangulated. I could get nnumbers from -2 to 2 easy

Those two ballistic are 30 each and then I need to get some tabs for the rest

Do you have any pics of your lower crossmember, looks like I'll be doing pretty much what you have :D

How long are your links?
 
I was playing with the numbers and it definately needs to be double triangulated. I could get nnumbers from -2 to 2 easy

Those two ballistic are 30 each and then I need to get some tabs for the rest

Do you have any pics of your lower crossmember, looks like I'll be doing pretty much what you have :D

How long are your links?

Those upper chassis brackets are from poly performance.

I'll have to get a current pic of the crossmember since I tied it into my tranny/case crossmember.

My lowers are 51" eye-to-eye. Pretty long but about the best way to do with the wheelbase I had to do with the ext cab and frame shape. Hence why they are 2.5"x.5" DOM.
 
Those upper chassis brackets are from poly performance.

I'll have to get a current pic of the crossmember since I tied it into my tranny/case crossmember.

My lowers are 51" eye-to-eye. Pretty long but about the best way to do with the wheelbase I had to do with the ext cab and frame shape. Hence why they are 2.5"x.5" DOM.

Thanks

I'm hoping I can get the upper bracket welded in before the rear cross member and still get decent numbers.

I think I'll use the tractor joints for now and tig weld some 3/4 .120 wall dom to reduce them down to 5/8's bolts or smaller, it depends what the brackets come with.

I may just order them and have them machined 2.63 wide so I can eventually go to ballistic joints. Those seem to be a quality choice
 
IMO just save up and get the good joint from the get go instead of paying half the $$ for a temp. They runs sales from time to time too.
I got my inserts and jam nuts from ruff stuff, much cheaper than ballistic. Also budget in or borrow a tap to clean the thread of the insert after welding. I got a 1.25" hand tap for $30 on ebay.
 
Howdiy

Get in touch with me. I may have some take off parts that will help you out.
 
IMO just save up and get the good joint from the get go instead of paying half the $$ for a temp. They runs sales from time to time too.
I got my inserts and jam nuts from ruff stuff, much cheaper than ballistic. Also budget in or borrow a tap to clean the thread of the insert after welding. I got a 1.25" hand tap for $30 on ebay.

Do you think the links really need to be adjustable?

I could afford to do something like these

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CUR-CE-9110P

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/263quot-Heavy-Duty-Ballistic-Joint_p_1226.html

I have around 500 dollars left to do the four link
 
I would spend the $$$ on quality joints and instead of buying brackets from the vendors just make your own. It will be alot more time and maybe not as clean as CNC cut brackets and tabs but it will work.

Here is a rundown on the cost of my 4 link rear. Granted I could have saved alot here and there.
$660- Shocks
$280- truss
$450- joints and some brackets
$ 90- more brackets from poly
$ 40- used btf brackets
$200- DOM for links
$100- inserts and jam nuts
$200- used c/o springs
 
The ballistic joints are good quality

I just wouldn't be able to adjust them

I should be able to get DOM for the links for .50 cents a pound
 
After doing some research, I can get away with non adjustable lowers but the uppers need to be adjustable

I did some more measuring and I think this will be pretty close to the final layout

I won't have to buy any brackets either, just tabs. It really isn't really worthwhile making your own tabs. So no brackets would free up another 70 bucks.


mtblz6.jpg
 
I picked up 60 pounds worth of lower links today :D:D

100_0462.jpg
 
I was lucky to find this, most of it is solid.

I ended up paying 45 for the steel and 6 dollars for two cuts.
 
Ouch 340 dollars worth of brackets tabs and joints
 
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