You can put a chain on the intake manifold bolts or in the head on each side and lift it level from the center. Or we can just unhook everything, pull it all in favor of a big block 
CK5
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PLAN B
This build was 2 parts 1 i have a truck I made to pretty to wheel so I'm building an ugly one I can actually enjoy.
And 2. My cousin has been trying to join us for blazer bash but his truck wont be ready so we are surprising him with this one
Im trying to avoid unbolting any of the manifold bolts.You can put a chain on the intake manifold bolts or in the head on each side and lift it level from the center. Or we can just unhook everything, pull it all in favor of a big block
You can put a 3/8” bolt through your chain into the back of the head on the passenger side, and use the lifting eye of the driver front.
You could use use just about any bolt on the other side of the intake, head , just about anywhere.
If you loosen the bolt on the other side of the intake and take it out nothing will happen to your seal on the intake.
If you had another one of those eyelet things you could bolt it down on the other side and lift it from there.
If you loosen the bolt on the other side of the intake and take it out nothing will happen to your seal on the intake.
If you had another one of those eyelet things you could bolt it down on the other side and lift it from there.
Yup looking for another eye now. If i cant find one on one of our scrap motors I'll give in and just bolt down a chain to a couple intake manifold bolts like you all suggested
@kgblazerfive you coming by this weekend to help install this stuff
Lol I will be at work, but I will be offering my support via good vibes.....
Ugh.... the last bolt is always a bitch... i may pull the starter and grind the end of the bolt to a point and drive it in.... i mean they are like an inch longer than they need to be.
I almost wonder if they made these planning on people without the 700r4 brace things... this one mount is off exactly as much as that support plate is thick.... hmmmm.... second set of hands and that sucker would be in.
a prybar or two is usually needed to those though bolts lined up.
I made the mistake of starting with the easy side. Im going to swap sides so i can work on the side with more room 
When I do motor mounts I usually just start the bolts on the first side leaving them loose enough for some play so I can start the bolts on the other mount.
the way i typically do them is i loosely put the bolts through the frame plates and then slide the big bolts through the center of the mounts then i tighten down the frame side bolts. are you suggesting throwing the bolt through the middle of the mounts then adding the bolts on the frame side of the mount? @skunked
When you installed the drivers side bracket to the engine and the the other to the frame, leave all those bolts loose. Then move to the passenger side......
I left both sides loose, what i was asking is if you put the big bolt in through the center before doing the three bolts on the frame side.
Either way its done
Discovered both motor mounts were shot. Drivers side you can actually pull out of the clam shell, passenger side is almost as bad.... i also discovered the transmission mount was totally shot. The reason my driveline was hitting my crossmember even driving on flat ground was because all my mounts were bad and everything dropped. Now i have tons of clearance!!
Note: this may also explain why i bottomed out my driveline...
At this point its trail worthy again.
All i need to do is the ORD crossmember and reseal the front diff cover then its better than it was before blazer bash
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Solo mission accomplished
Started to fab a new sheild with a rear support, i got it to where i was about to weld it and decided i hated it lol back to the drawing board
I had to abandon the sheild idea for now until i can move my exhaust a little and have it mount higher. Since i took the paint off the sheild thinking i was going to weld it i figured id just paint it blue for now.
I fixed the front diff leak and fixed their bad weld around the plug that has always had a small leak.
I serviced the t-case and added 5 quarts of fluid. Fluid never came out but i think its because its sitting at a pretty major angle.
I discovered my temp sensor was broken in the manifold but lucky me i had a backup because of my fitech on the other rig.
I am slightly nervous about an intake manifold leak, i had some fluid come out the front of the intake manifold on the passanger side, it stopped once i tightened it so we shall see what happens.
My review on the mounts.....
Considerably more vibration in gear at idle, even more vibrations in gear at idle with the ac on. Part of me thinks the compressor is having issues.
Im sure the mounts will be tits offroad but i dont see myself putting them on my other street only truck
I fixed the front diff leak and fixed their bad weld around the plug that has always had a small leak.
I serviced the t-case and added 5 quarts of fluid. Fluid never came out but i think its because its sitting at a pretty major angle.
I discovered my temp sensor was broken in the manifold but lucky me i had a backup because of my fitech on the other rig.
I am slightly nervous about an intake manifold leak, i had some fluid come out the front of the intake manifold on the passanger side, it stopped once i tightened it so we shall see what happens.
My review on the mounts.....
Considerably more vibration in gear at idle, even more vibrations in gear at idle with the ac on. Part of me thinks the compressor is having issues.
Im sure the mounts will be tits offroad but i dont see myself putting them on my other street only truck
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Awesome man. In an off road type truck you'll get used to the minor vibe pretty fast. Once the body panels get bashed to a point. Everything vibrates
Oh yeah and right now i technically dont have body mounts because of the boatsiding so i really feel everything
