Just go full hydro and skip all that crossover stuff. They don't do state inspections anymore you will be ok. Just don't get in any wrecks that involve the UHP investigating your vehicle.
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PLAN B
This build was 2 parts 1 i have a truck I made to pretty to wheel so I'm building an ugly one I can actually enjoy.
And 2. My cousin has been trying to join us for blazer bash but his truck wont be ready so we are surprising him with this one
I have a few pictures where I got stuck and had to be pulled up and over the obstacle due to my steering being locked. It's a really stupid feeling lol.
This is the current plan for mine at the moment lol.
lots of different products an options can be used to setup hydro assist. Obviously you can go the easy/most expensive route and buy a complete PSC system. However there are plenty of budget ways to accomplish assist, many documented here on CK5 in the build threads.
1) Steering box- Buy a box already ported from PSC, send a box to WTOF and they'll rebuild/port it for you or port your own and use one of Kert's ported caps.
2) Steering Pump- Buy one from PSC along with a reservoir or use a stock pump and extend the volume with a long filler hose.
3) Ram, tabs, high & low pressure hoses and fittings- Again you can buy it all from PSC or buy the parts from one of the surplus stores online. @Kay86K5 has detailed the parts in his K5 build
4) Cooler- Coolers are cheap and IMO I wouldn't want to run an old cooler with a new system in case there was some shit stuck in the cooler.
It's all about suspension travel, your silver truck probably doesn't flex enough. A locker in front only makes the situation that much worse.
1) Steering box- Buy a box already ported from PSC, send a box to WTOF and they'll rebuild/port it for you or port your own and use one of Kert's ported caps.
2) Steering Pump- Buy one from PSC along with a reservoir or use a stock pump and extend the volume with a long filler hose.
3) Ram, tabs, high & low pressure hoses and fittings- Again you can buy it all from PSC or buy the parts from one of the surplus stores online. @Kay86K5 has detailed the parts in his K5 build
4) Cooler- Coolers are cheap and IMO I wouldn't want to run an old cooler with a new system in case there was some shit stuck in the cooler.
It's all about suspension travel, your silver truck probably doesn't flex enough. A locker in front only makes the situation that much worse.
I used my stock pump and just did the WTOR modification to the pump to get a little more flow (it's a really easy mod) and used a radiator hose on the top of the pump for more fluid capacity. Use my stock 2wd steering box and bough DIY4x's tapped end cap, then drilled and tapped the top cap myself (really easy, just get the right drill bit...9/16 IIRC...and a good NPT tap set and your good), bought my 2" single ended ram off surpluscenter.com for $60 along with the hoses and fittings from surplus center for another ~$60, and bought a little simple steering cooler off summit for $30. I did end up buying a beef diff cover with Kurt's ram assist mount added to it (though I was going to do a diff cover anyways, so I don't really count that into the cost of my hydro setup). All in all I think I was less than $300 into my whole assist setup. I did that setup in the spring of 2013...and I literally haven't touched the system ever sense. It just works. Never had it leak, never had a problem with it. And it's gone from 38.5's to 44's to my current 42's and it's felt great with all the different tire sizes.
If you plan to drive on the road, I'd recommend either a 1.5" or 1.75" ram, if you care more about offroad, go 2" for more steering power. In my honest opinion, I really don't know why people go with PSC all the time. That crap is so freaking expensive. Yes the systems are nice and they work really well, but man are they expensive...but to each their own.
If you plan to drive on the road, I'd recommend either a 1.5" or 1.75" ram, if you care more about offroad, go 2" for more steering power. In my honest opinion, I really don't know why people go with PSC all the time. That crap is so freaking expensive. Yes the systems are nice and they work really well, but man are they expensive...but to each their own.
The only reason i may consider the psc kit is it has ALL the parts including the 2wd box thats pre tapped and instructions
I think time is money, if it faster and easier and i dont have to run back and forth looking for parts i will totally be down for the more expensive option. (only 2 months until bb18)
also doing some reading and it sounds like the full kit has a much stronger/faster pump so it cuts down on any lag. since i do drive this on the street quite often i would like for it to behave well.
not saying im not looking into building my own kit just saying IF i did the psc kit that would be why.
I am 99% sure at a minimum i will do crossover including a new 2wd box thats tapped for future ram before blazer bash.
Just my opinion, but I wouldn't go full hydro on anything you plan on driving on the street. There is a reason it is illegal. I like the back up of having an actual mechanical connection between the wheels and the steering wheel if you have a leak and/or the engine dies.
I'll be doing hydro assist on mine at some point now that my front axle is locked. I didn't think locking the front axle would make as much difference as it has, but there were several times last year at BB that I couldn't get it to steer where I wanted on certain obstacles.
To be honest, a mod'd stock pump will put out about the same pressure as PSC's pump (some may call bull crap on that, but they don't have me convinced that they are putting any more out)...but the sluggish feeling you get is more coming from what ram you pick. There is a reason why PSC's kit usually comes with a 1.5" ram, cause that takes less force to push/pull which means the pump is working less. It's not really that their pump is that much better (not saying their pump is a bad pump at all, just trying to give some info).
That's why I said above, if you drive on the street quite a bit still, go 1.5" ram, if you care more about offroad and won't drive on the street much, go 2". I did the exact same setup as mine on my brothers 78 K5 (tons, 4" lift, crossover, 37's, bla bla) with a 2" ram. He still drives it on the street and though you can tell it's a "little" bit slower, still nothing that is dangerous or sketchy about it at all. Just a few months ago I drove it a couple hundred miles round trip on the highway and mountain roads and it was fine.
I get the mentality of a kit having everything which makes it easier, so you will pay more for that...but nowadays this info is so readily available cause it's been done so many times, that with just a little bit of time to research, that you can save hundreds...but as I said before, to each their own.
That's why I said above, if you drive on the street quite a bit still, go 1.5" ram, if you care more about offroad and won't drive on the street much, go 2". I did the exact same setup as mine on my brothers 78 K5 (tons, 4" lift, crossover, 37's, bla bla) with a 2" ram. He still drives it on the street and though you can tell it's a "little" bit slower, still nothing that is dangerous or sketchy about it at all. Just a few months ago I drove it a couple hundred miles round trip on the highway and mountain roads and it was fine.
I get the mentality of a kit having everything which makes it easier, so you will pay more for that...but nowadays this info is so readily available cause it's been done so many times, that with just a little bit of time to research, that you can save hundreds...but as I said before, to each their own.
Yeah I doubt I would ever do it either unless it was short distance driving to and from the trail in the middle of no where. Definitely not in SLC.
I run the 1.75" and can vouch it's a little on the slow side if you're hauling ass down a fire, dodging tree's. However I find a little skinny pedal can keep you pointing the right direction 
truth be told i frequently find myself doing 80-90 on the freeway and dont want something that will make me miss a turn...
I know I know... slow down...
I know I know... slow down...
truth be told i frequently find myself doing 80-90 on the freeway and dont want something that will make me miss a turn...
I know I know... slow down...
that won't be a problem, it's the lock to lock quick steering (low speeds) that you'll notice it's slower.
i just got off the phone with ORD, they said since i have a 3.5" lift and i pushed the axle forward 1.5" I SHOULD be able to get away with not doing the crossmember...
thoughts?
I was considering their high clearance model for the BBC and LS swap just in case i go down either road later.
If i dont need to do it that would save a little time and $
then again doing it would likely firm up the frame a bit...
thoughts?
I was considering their high clearance model for the BBC and LS swap just in case i go down either road later.
If i dont need to do it that would save a little time and $
then again doing it would likely firm up the frame a bit...
I have ORD's crossover (pitmit arm and bent draglink). And for a while I had just normal 4" lift springs in the front, then did 52's in the front (still roughly 4" of lift) and I still to this day have the stock engine crossmember in mine, and I never had clearance issues. I can't imagine with 0.5" less of lift on springs that don't flex as much as 52's that you would have a problem at all. I say just do crossover and don't worry about crossmember at this time
and you can always limit the bump travel anyway.
I don't have an aftermarket crossmember. Not cut either. And I have high steer. 56s so basically 4" if lift when they aren't worn out.
That crossmember will do nothing for the frame because it's just replacing an existing one
That crossmember will do nothing for the frame because it's just replacing an existing one
you don't think the design will add rigidity? The stock one is a known failure point, both of my K10's were ripped. However I still don't think it takes a higher priority than crossover and assist in this particular situation.
Yeah especially because i have the 40s now i need the minimum stuff to run these asap
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It may add some but not really enough to make it a consideration point.
But even if it does add substantial rigidity it remains low on stuff Joey needs
Dude that's awesome!Yeah especially because i have the 40s now i need the minimum stuff to run these asap
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I'll have some x-over and drilled box stuff for sale, and I'm making a trip to Colorado in August...
Now that I have this to put on mine.
So first time i think i need to call bs on ORD.
I called and asked why they sell the psc kit for 200 more than most places. They told me "we don't actually sell their kit its our own kit we just use their parts" hmmmm they use their pictures/parts and description... hmmmm...
Anyone have any input on this? Ord wants like $1285 and summit wants $1085 free shipping and no taxes... are they the same kit or what?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfn-sk320
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/PSCsteering.htm
Still window shopping but id like to save $ if i can
I called and asked why they sell the psc kit for 200 more than most places. They told me "we don't actually sell their kit its our own kit we just use their parts" hmmmm they use their pictures/parts and description... hmmmm...
Anyone have any input on this? Ord wants like $1285 and summit wants $1085 free shipping and no taxes... are they the same kit or what?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfn-sk320
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/PSCsteering.htm
Still window shopping but id like to save $ if i can
