Nice glass!
Martin
Martin
CK5
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The Beige Jimmy
- Thread starter regal403
- Start date
I seem to have misplaced its counterpart, "Son of Officiant"
I have no help right now.
Going down in elevation should be making it run lean if it was jetted correctly for the Denver area. And since you said that it isn't running as well there, lean would make sense. But that doesn't come through in the tailpipe test.
But I am confused about the vacuum reading not changing with the extra adjustment of the screws. I know that I have run into that, but memory lost track of that information.
So is it going to be best to open the carb and see what jets it has? I believe that jets are easier to find, and it's the same amount of work to change either.
Going down in elevation should be making it run lean if it was jetted correctly for the Denver area. And since you said that it isn't running as well there, lean would make sense. But that doesn't come through in the tailpipe test.
But I am confused about the vacuum reading not changing with the extra adjustment of the screws. I know that I have run into that, but memory lost track of that information.
So is it going to be best to open the carb and see what jets it has? I believe that jets are easier to find, and it's the same amount of work to change either.
So this is John on Marty's log in. The idle air screws on those late carbs are purposely drilled small so you can't back them out and gain anything. Know also that throttle opening position is likely important. I can talk you through some stuff on the phone and dig into my David Roe Qjet book later to see if it talks about specific tuning. I honestly would see if you an find the specific tune up specs for that model, It would be in the GM manual. This would be idle speed, timing, choke setting, how to properly set the idle air screws for proper lean out. Know that where it runs best will NOT be where it is set for emissions. Rich smelling exhaust will at times be lean because it is too lean to completely burn the fuel.
Not Martin
Not Martin
From my 1982 gm shop manual.
Don't know what it means but it is the specs they listed.
Don't know what it means but it is the specs they listed.
Thanks to Hillbilly for walking me through some adjustments. For one, I had the timing set at 12* and not 4* per the emissions decal.
Also my electric choke was not connected and besides that, the choke appears to have not been fully releasing. My normal idle speed screw was backed so far out that it wasn't even touching the throttle and it still idled somewhat good. I touched some of the little green levers near the choke and she dropped down to slow idle and died.
So that means I was probably partially choked and the timing was incorrect during my emissions test yesterday. I'll take it back next Saturday morning to run it through the test again.
Also my electric choke was not connected and besides that, the choke appears to have not been fully releasing. My normal idle speed screw was backed so far out that it wasn't even touching the throttle and it still idled somewhat good. I touched some of the little green levers near the choke and she dropped down to slow idle and died.
So that means I was probably partially choked and the timing was incorrect during my emissions test yesterday. I'll take it back next Saturday morning to run it through the test again.
The q-jet on my big block has an issue with the fast idle linkage sticking and it stays on high idle speed. I don't think my choke works either but I just give it some throttle til it stays running but I don't have to deal with any emissions testing and all that mess of hoses and junk is deleted off mine.
It's a Portland car culture requirement to take this picture under the St. John's bridge, I'm fairly sure. 
Sure is green here.
Back in line at the DEQ, we shall see how it goes.
Sure is green here.
Back in line at the DEQ, we shall see how it goes.
And I failed with 5.8x the amount of hydrocarbons as my first test.
Funny how only the cities require emissions testing. Where I live in Washington (not far from you), nobody cares.
Washington state did away with it all together.
Is there a place where you can take it that actually has an emissions machine so they can tune it to pass? They charge you usually an hours labor here in Cali to do that but more times than not, the Jimmy will pass.
Oregon never misses a bureaucratic opportunity. I wish there were an emissions testing exemption for vehicles of a certain age and usage, but that is not the case. I live 12 miles from the emissions requirement boundary, so I have to get it to pass here if I want to license it in this state.
I'll get it to pass, just need to figure out how to lean it way out. My idle mixture screws are only about 1.5 turns out from fully closed, which should be super lean. My timing is at 4° but I'm still dumping hydrocarbons into the tailpipe. I'll check my plugs to see if #6 & 8 are fouled again like they were last summer.
Would an aftermarket valve cover breather help instead of the thick tube that connects to the air cleaner?
I'll get it to pass, just need to figure out how to lean it way out. My idle mixture screws are only about 1.5 turns out from fully closed, which should be super lean. My timing is at 4° but I'm still dumping hydrocarbons into the tailpipe. I'll check my plugs to see if #6 & 8 are fouled again like they were last summer.
Would an aftermarket valve cover breather help instead of the thick tube that connects to the air cleaner?
Fresh plugs, change the oil to 20w50 to slow the oil fouling of the plugs for the test.
I don’t know if going to an aftermarket breather would help or not.
What might be worth doing is putting an air/fuel gauge on it to know where you are on the air fuel ratio.
www.enjukuracing.com
I don’t know if going to an aftermarket breather would help or not.
What might be worth doing is putting an air/fuel gauge on it to know where you are on the air fuel ratio.
AEM Wideband UEGO Gauge - Digital Air/Fuel - 30-4110
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I thought that the mixture screws were air flow adjustments, which is why they never leak fuel.
to adjust idle mixture ... you must have the engine at operating temps.. the timing must be set properly... no uncontrolled vacuum leaks.. a Properly sized PCV valve hooked up. .
find a manifold vacuum port and hook up your vacuum gauge.
you should see over 12 inches of vacuum at idle..
turn the idle mixture screws in One at a time till you see the vacuum dropping.. then turn them back out till you don't get any increase. then turn them back in till the vacuum just starts to drop.. back it out to get right at the spot when the vacuum starts to drop..
do the other screw.. turn it in until the vacuum starts to drop.. then back it out till you get no higher readings.. turn it in till it just starts to drop.. and back it out slightly..
now that you have gotten both sides equal... if the idle speed is not where you want it... adjust the idle speed again with screw on the side of the carb
back the idle mixture screw out till you get no increase AGAIN.. turn it in till the vacuum starts to drop and take it back to the exact point it starts to drop at..
do the other screw.. back it out till you get no more increase in vacuum.. turn it in till it just starts to drop.. then back it out slightly so you are right at the point it just starts to drop.
now... the hard one... while watching the manifold vacuum gauge. turn the screws in equally so the manifold vacuum drops 1/2" of vacuum.. for both screws.. not 1/2" for each screw.. 1/2" total for both..
this is lean BEST IDLE ..
Copy and paste from the webs.
find a manifold vacuum port and hook up your vacuum gauge.
you should see over 12 inches of vacuum at idle..
turn the idle mixture screws in One at a time till you see the vacuum dropping.. then turn them back out till you don't get any increase. then turn them back in till the vacuum just starts to drop.. back it out to get right at the spot when the vacuum starts to drop..
do the other screw.. turn it in until the vacuum starts to drop.. then back it out till you get no higher readings.. turn it in till it just starts to drop.. and back it out slightly..
now that you have gotten both sides equal... if the idle speed is not where you want it... adjust the idle speed again with screw on the side of the carb
back the idle mixture screw out till you get no increase AGAIN.. turn it in till the vacuum starts to drop and take it back to the exact point it starts to drop at..
do the other screw.. back it out till you get no more increase in vacuum.. turn it in till it just starts to drop.. then back it out slightly so you are right at the point it just starts to drop.
now... the hard one... while watching the manifold vacuum gauge. turn the screws in equally so the manifold vacuum drops 1/2" of vacuum.. for both screws.. not 1/2" for each screw.. 1/2" total for both..
this is lean BEST IDLE ..
Copy and paste from the webs.
I'll get the vacuum gauge hooked up and hopefully tune on it this weekend.
Fresh plugs, thick oil, any other tricks to help?
Fresh plugs, thick oil, any other tricks to help?
I hate getting stuff smogged, you end up with a knot in your stomach, your heart skips, and it feels like you are going to have a stroke all at the same time. In some ways, your smog is better and in some ways your smog is worse. Better in that they don't look under the hood, worse in that they don't allow you to adjust anything once you get there which is where it counts. x2 on what Fastereddie put.
One thing overlooked is getting the test done with the engine at less than operating temp. The choke will be active and you’ll be running richer than if it was at operating temp.
Go in good and hot. If you have to wait in line let it run to keep it from cooling off.
To that extent make sure your choke isn’t hanging up like was mentioned in an earlier post.
Go in good and hot. If you have to wait in line let it run to keep it from cooling off.
To that extent make sure your choke isn’t hanging up like was mentioned in an earlier post.
The plugs are back to where they were last summer. #6 and 8 are fouled.
Can I just wire brush them off and pop them back in? They were new last summer, maybe 1-200 miles tops on them.
Also my tall chrome valve covers are too tall to fit with my EGR valve and Edelbrock adapter. So it will remain clad with the black GM Goodwrench units until further notice.
Can I just wire brush them off and pop them back in? They were new last summer, maybe 1-200 miles tops on them.
Also my tall chrome valve covers are too tall to fit with my EGR valve and Edelbrock adapter. So it will remain clad with the black GM Goodwrench units until further notice.
