I think that's in my future as well. Looks good
CK5
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Yank Tank Molotov/3+3, 454/magnum/Allison
- Thread starter SpeedlabDan
- Start date
'84 K30 Silverado "big Dooley"
Fairly sure this is why the ecu is dumping fuel under hard acceleration. I'm gonna do the other collector as well if I don't work 16hrs again tomorrow. I have 3" V bands to do this properly but that's another can of worms including reworking the entire exhaust.
Is your O2 sensor after the collector?
I really like these for one time use...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-68002/
I've had the aluminum units last for over a decade but they do seap a tiny bit so I don't trust them with O2 sensors.
I really like these for one time use...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-68002/
I've had the aluminum units last for over a decade but they do seap a tiny bit so I don't trust them with O2 sensors.
Yea there's only one o2 but I put it in the collector just after the flange. This setup will be getting V bands eventually I'm just not ready to rework the entire exhaust.
I did the same thing with mine for clearance reasons. The Percys "seal 4 good" gaskets are pretty good too, I use those if the flange is warped at all as they can withstand the thickness difference.
Took your advice I'm gonna grab a set of Percy's 3" gaskets I don't want to take a chance on the pressed no name gaskets I got layin around
Whichever you got you'll like better than the standard gaskets, they will last a lot longer. I've had both styles on engines for several years now. Just make sure to put a wrench on the bolts after the first few heat cycles(each time) and then once they stop moving you'll be good for a long time and they shouldn't loosen after that. (I do that with any header gasket)
Good practice
16 hours is better than no hours. Glad your busy.
Yea man feast or famine I'm diggin it tho
So I clearance a couple primary tubes and bolted the header back up. I really hate the routing of the passenger side exhaust (under the cross member) so I think I may take my time and redo the entire 3" exhaust... Too bad I gotta pull the headers back off to V band them
I also never finished supporting the rear of the transmission in front of the magnum. It's more like a stock configuration with the th400 and the 205 hanging off the back but this trans/engine/and magnum are a bit longer and heavier causing some flex and leakage. MAW finish the cross member while I'm in there and reseal the magnum...
Do I drop the trans and fix the rear main while I'm in there? I think the spring popped off the new seal during install. Ugh, to do shit right. Fml
Also pulled the interior to dyno mat and put carpet in.
Another member has a used 4" ORD shackle flip hanger set for K30 on the way so I can remove the 3-4" blocks but I'm going to order some super shackles, a ubolt flip kit and all greasable hardwear while at it.
I really wanted to get back into my k5 build but I gotta finish something for once or at least get it close
I also never finished supporting the rear of the transmission in front of the magnum. It's more like a stock configuration with the th400 and the 205 hanging off the back but this trans/engine/and magnum are a bit longer and heavier causing some flex and leakage. MAW finish the cross member while I'm in there and reseal the magnum...
Do I drop the trans and fix the rear main while I'm in there? I think the spring popped off the new seal during install. Ugh, to do shit right. Fml
Also pulled the interior to dyno mat and put carpet in.
Another member has a used 4" ORD shackle flip hanger set for K30 on the way so I can remove the 3-4" blocks but I'm going to order some super shackles, a ubolt flip kit and all greasable hardwear while at it.
I really wanted to get back into my k5 build but I gotta finish something for once or at least get it close
Have you seen the seal trick of packing the area with the spring with grease so it doesn't pop out? I had an old timer teach me it way back when I popped a spring out once. Now every seal I do that has the spring I just take my grease gun and pump that gap full and smooth it off with my finger. Haven't ever had one pop out since and the grease just melts off then and doesn't cause any issues. Or you can pony up and buy this guy. https://www.freedomracing.com/j-42849-crankshaft-rear-seal-installer-alt-st-207-stallion.html
I did that that's how I used to drive the hub seals on the 5ton military trucks but unfortunately I think it still may have slipped out anyway bc I didn't use an installer I just tapped it in. I'll make a driver next time it's like 5- 6" diameter or so
I have the same problem. I go back and forth between running projects and never really “finish” one.
I really wanted to get back into my k5 build but I gotta finish something for once or at least get it close
I am glad to see that I am not the only one with this affliction. My wife has questioned me about it before, and lots of suggestions about my "problems " in the 25+ years that we have been married....
Dan, are you thinking about making a driver that pushes the seal in as you tighten bolts into the crank? Cummins has some like the.
i have a truck here that dosn't even have a build thread . . . . and only a few pics of it on here . current project load is 2 K30's / 1 C10 / 1 GMC 7000 dump / 1973 mustang .
Started this yesterday. Put the seat back in bc we're going to the last show of the season which happens to be the best one.
The popping is way better and the engine is running better but I think these Chinese collectors just aren't matching well enough in diameter. When I get back I'll be dropping the exhaust for V bands an reroute the passenger side so it's not slung under the transfer case. I'll probably drop the tcase and doubler to rebuild this cross member as well
The popping is way better and the engine is running better but I think these Chinese collectors just aren't matching well enough in diameter. When I get back I'll be dropping the exhaust for V bands an reroute the passenger side so it's not slung under the transfer case. I'll probably drop the tcase and doubler to rebuild this cross member as well
It won't stop raining!
Rain sideways and tornado warnings yesterday (yes in South jersey)... Sick as a dog on the couch today.... Really had plans to finish up the dynomat and put the carpets in but maybe tomorrow. Anyone have any tips for pulling the driver door off without the fender being removed? I have a new upper hinge ide like to put in then on to the new regulator/motor, fix weather strip channel I never got set right.
