Needed the add a leaf for height, had a hell of a time with the spring pack bolts so once I got them lined up I clamped everything down. The clips aren't big enough to fit the ad a leafs
CK5
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Yank Tank Molotov/3+3, 454/magnum/Allison
- Thread starter SpeedlabDan
- Start date
'84 K30 Silverado "big Dooley"
not the best way at all to let the leaf ride on there like that . but each to there own .
Nobody's perfect
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Pobody's nerfect. But some internet warriors are. Lol.
my info just comes from a year in a spring shop and what i was told was right and wrong and why it was that way . just saying it was not the best way to be done is all .
I know nothing about springs to be honest. I do however know, I'm doin light years better without the 4" lift blocks.
that is a true point there on the big long truck ditching the 4" blocks .
So while sitting in the driveway a pop through the passenger side bank at idle was getting worse. I suspect the IAC. Had my buddy stop by with his scanner.
As it turns out there's no live data for the tps but no misfire detected. As it turns out the fuel pressure had crept up to 64 psi and 72 when reved
. Fortunately I have the early rail with the adjustable regulator. It's 56 at idle or so and still spikes to 61 at high rpm. Strange to me as I thought the psi would drop under demand. 
(electric in tank ep381) either way the popping under acceleration is almost non existent but I slill get a light pop here n there I need to pull the plugs next to check for a fuel foul.
As it turns out there's no live data for the tps but no misfire detected. As it turns out the fuel pressure had crept up to 64 psi and 72 when reved
. Fortunately I have the early rail with the adjustable regulator. It's 56 at idle or so and still spikes to 61 at high rpm. Strange to me as I thought the psi would drop under demand. (electric in tank ep381) either way the popping under acceleration is almost non existent but I slill get a light pop here n there I need to pull the plugs next to check for a fuel foul.
So I've been driving around locally with little issue, fuel psi is still low but it's not popping. Found some of the spark plug buts like to walk off due to the header tubes. I'll be upgrading to Taylor wires when I get the cash. Only a momentary cut out here n there I believe may have to do with the fried fuse block wiring that I cut out and replaced but I did not fully remove/rebuild. Still no delay in the wipers since I've done that so somethings are missing.
Anyway, the 8.1L did not know there was a ton on the back at all. She did squat a little but felt super stable due to the bilstien shocks and super shackles out back. The front end was light enough I don't think I had put to use the new sway bar bushings
Anyway, the 8.1L did not know there was a ton on the back at all. She did squat a little but felt super stable due to the bilstien shocks and super shackles out back. The front end was light enough I don't think I had put to use the new sway bar bushings
Burly
Finally spun my billet jbfab knobs on
So Nikki n I took her down the river this weekend, since I've tightened up the coils of wire under the dash I think it's putting more stress on the previously burnt out fuse block. Coupled with the stiffer ride from the new shocks the engine is cutting out at speed... Fml
I currently have the switched 12v for the efi harness fed directly through the front of the fuse block via blade terminal (which has fell out on me before).
I had plans to hard wire this but I haven't had the chance yet.
The passenger rear window also won't move again... (it was like this when I got it but I moved the wires behind the block and it worked for a while)
So I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a painless block in interest of time and that they have the tilt harness connector for tilt column included with kit #91064022 listed around $189.
I'm not looking forward to this as I'll probably pull the entire dash so I can reroute everything and clean the remaining rat nests out of the ducts that keep blowing out. Ugh.
I currently have the switched 12v for the efi harness fed directly through the front of the fuse block via blade terminal (which has fell out on me before).
I had plans to hard wire this but I haven't had the chance yet.
The passenger rear window also won't move again... (it was like this when I got it but I moved the wires behind the block and it worked for a while)
So I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a painless block in interest of time and that they have the tilt harness connector for tilt column included with kit #91064022 listed around $189.
I'm not looking forward to this as I'll probably pull the entire dash so I can reroute everything and clean the remaining rat nests out of the ducts that keep blowing out. Ugh.
Amazon recommended, I was impulsive. Also have some flush mount led's
What are they for? Looks like some sort of tie down clip.
Yes, inquiring minds want to know.What are they for? Looks like some sort of tie down clip.
It's like 110 degrees in the driveway so I gave up for the day I'll wire them tomorrow morning.
The ecm on a toggle it's running better but I'm still having fueling issues. It's either the regulator is failing or the tank isn't letting fuel return fast enough. It's still stumbling and I actually had a backfire/pop on the way back from the store.
The ecm on a toggle it's running better but I'm still having fueling issues. It's either the regulator is failing or the tank isn't letting fuel return fast enough. It's still stumbling and I actually had a backfire/pop on the way back from the store.
Oh, whole different with some size perspective. I thought in the first picture the were smaller.
Yea they still look small on this plow of a bumper
I like how they are a dual tow hook.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Probably should have removed that license plate before you lit the up the fire tools? Eh.
