Funny, that was exactly what I was going to sayAre you going to use the chainsaw to shorten the driveshaft?
I couldn't resist..
CK5
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Yank Tank Molotov/3+3, 454/magnum/Allison
- Thread starter SpeedlabDan
- Start date
'84 K30 Silverado "big Dooley"
Yea that got in there somehowAre you going to use the chainsaw to shorten the driveshaft?
I couldn't resist..
Guess who pulled out of the shop under power?!
So one of the -10 lines on the cooler is leaking, I’m short transynd fluid and evidently the xguage scanguage doesn’t work when you’re using Allison software. So I have no dash just oil pieces guage and the handheld for fitech.
No strange noises tho and it did spin the tires but I don’t know if it’s in limp or not. Hard to tell if it’s actually in first or 3rd. The Allison will have reverse and 3rd even if it’s not plugged in.
So one of the -10 lines on the cooler is leaking, I’m short transynd fluid and evidently the xguage scanguage doesn’t work when you’re using Allison software. So I have no dash just oil pieces guage and the handheld for fitech.
No strange noises tho and it did spin the tires but I don’t know if it’s in limp or not. Hard to tell if it’s actually in first or 3rd. The Allison will have reverse and 3rd even if it’s not plugged in.
Also tested for the old power draw and nothing is registering so 
I like how customizable the Dakota etc dash is but it’s a lot…
As far as modules, I picked a an obd2 can bus/bim that works either typical setups. Though it gave me a digital gear selection the “J1939” communication from the tcm does not provide speed or temp that I can tell. I kinda knew this wasn’t going to work but it’s worth a shot. I’m out $113 but may use the bim in the future. The alternative is a test port temp sensor on the trans and another $75 module. The brown wire off the tcm harness is labeled speed so I’ll see if the tone count is picked up by the controll box once connected. I have a 4 speed mechanical prindle that I’ll use for selector it’s off a gear but the detente are close until I can find something else. Worst case of the Speedo doesn’t work I can get a gps module that will also give me a compass
I also picked up a fitech module to work with the EFI but I haven’t tried it yet. All it’s going to give me is tach and water temp that I don’t have now and for the $100 I could put a temp sensor back in the block and pick up from the hei.
As for running I put a little more timing in it (it was bumped during trans/engine install) and it idled fine. Started pulling out of the driveway and the fitech handheld keeps dropping out and going black. At the same time the EFI is cutting. So I suspect that dui/hei that wasn’t cooperative in my blazer with the fitech either has a bad module or a ground/short issue. The fitech ran great on this system befor with the old hei but I needed that for another engine. I think that’s it for this update other than my new p/s pump is whinny and doesn’t like to steer or power the brakes and I’m about over that
As far as modules, I picked a an obd2 can bus/bim that works either typical setups. Though it gave me a digital gear selection the “J1939” communication from the tcm does not provide speed or temp that I can tell. I kinda knew this wasn’t going to work but it’s worth a shot. I’m out $113 but may use the bim in the future. The alternative is a test port temp sensor on the trans and another $75 module. The brown wire off the tcm harness is labeled speed so I’ll see if the tone count is picked up by the controll box once connected. I have a 4 speed mechanical prindle that I’ll use for selector it’s off a gear but the detente are close until I can find something else. Worst case of the Speedo doesn’t work I can get a gps module that will also give me a compass
I also picked up a fitech module to work with the EFI but I haven’t tried it yet. All it’s going to give me is tach and water temp that I don’t have now and for the $100 I could put a temp sensor back in the block and pick up from the hei.
As for running I put a little more timing in it (it was bumped during trans/engine install) and it idled fine. Started pulling out of the driveway and the fitech handheld keeps dropping out and going black. At the same time the EFI is cutting. So I suspect that dui/hei that wasn’t cooperative in my blazer with the fitech either has a bad module or a ground/short issue. The fitech ran great on this system befor with the old hei but I needed that for another engine. I think that’s it for this update other than my new p/s pump is whinny and doesn’t like to steer or power the brakes and I’m about over that
These should buff out…
Saved from the wreckage I scrubbed in the parts tank so far I’m not sure how crazy I can go before I ruin them. They were flimsy before the fire but I’d like to use them
Saved from the wreckage I scrubbed in the parts tank so far I’m not sure how crazy I can go before I ruin them. They were flimsy before the fire but I’d like to use them
i am cleaning shop if i find my 3+3 tags there yours buddy .
That would be awesome!!!! Thanks man!
Just did a 12’ rolling burnout with ol babylegs over here still no reading from the trans temp sensor/bim so I gotta figure out that rats nest that I didn’t take a pic of. I start out with the best intentions of routing and organizing behind the dash but there’s just too much to package.
However, the fitech is still cutting out at any rpm above idle. I think the alternator charge wire is to close to the power for that so I’ll run the fitech direct to the battery tomorrow and see if that helps. (There goes my tidy under hood wiring as well)
The hei seem to be up to snuff with the new dynamic mod as well.
I have to say the 4.56s, small factory size 2wd tires and the low first gear of the Allison really makes it feel like it’s in low range at 1:1. Foot slightly off the brake and the rears are power braking.
However, the fitech is still cutting out at any rpm above idle. I think the alternator charge wire is to close to the power for that so I’ll run the fitech direct to the battery tomorrow and see if that helps. (There goes my tidy under hood wiring as well)
The hei seem to be up to snuff with the new dynamic mod as well.
I have to say the 4.56s, small factory size 2wd tires and the low first gear of the Allison really makes it feel like it’s in low range at 1:1. Foot slightly off the brake and the rears are power braking.
Well now I need to decide whether I want to pull this dui hei disi or go back to a carb. I’m over it. Added a bunch of grounds checked a lot of terminals and metripak connectors. Idles great. Soon as it’s in gear under load the fitech handheld still flashes a couple times and tries to shut down. At this time it freaks out the tcm and that drops out of gear.
So the fitech worked in this truck with the way it was wired. The disi is the one out of my blazer that also did not play well. I hate to throw parts at it. I guess before I change the fuel system I’ll get a Gm replacement hei. The one that was in it has a chip out of the body so I put that in another project.
Man I really hope it’s not the tcm causing these issues…
So the fitech worked in this truck with the way it was wired. The disi is the one out of my blazer that also did not play well. I hate to throw parts at it. I guess before I change the fuel system I’ll get a Gm replacement hei. The one that was in it has a chip out of the body so I put that in another project.
Man I really hope it’s not the tcm causing these issues…
That sucks man. Hopefully you get it figured out without throwing parts at it.
Is this an in cap coil HEI? Make sure the coil is grounded to the engine.
Make sure the ECU has a direct connection to the battery + and - . Maybe the TCU as well, depending on what it says in the manual.
Nothing else should be connected directly to the battery (other than the starter). Use a solid junction block for other items if needed.
Make sure the ignition wires and/or coil wires don't run parallel to any ECU wires or sensors.
Also, make sure hte coil is good. If the coil itself is bad or shorted out the spark power will be low and won't run well under load.
Make sure the ECU has a direct connection to the battery + and - . Maybe the TCU as well, depending on what it says in the manual.
Nothing else should be connected directly to the battery (other than the starter). Use a solid junction block for other items if needed.
Make sure the ignition wires and/or coil wires don't run parallel to any ECU wires or sensors.
Also, make sure hte coil is good. If the coil itself is bad or shorted out the spark power will be low and won't run well under load.
Yea im on point with most of that. It is an in cap coil but I’ll have to go through more later
$60 and here the next day. Hard to be mad at that. Now I haven’t opened it up yet and I made sure to get a curve kit but it looks like I’ll have a bit of doin to do tomorrow
Ran one of those on my last blazer. The HEI module died in a year.
I was already considering swapping the dyna mod module that I just put in the Davis disi maybe that and the curve kit will get it up to snuff. The dyna mod was mor expensive than this entire disi
It will be easy to be mad at that, I was going to say I don't know anyone that has had good luck with a super cheap distributor, so unfortunately if that doesn't fix the problem, that doesn't necessarily prove it wasn't the problem.
Your truck is way too cool/nice to have a unreliable ignition system.
It ran in the other chassis with the old distributor so if it runs with the cheap one I cand upgrade to an msd or Gm Delco
Welp….
I don’t think it’s the distributor. I have to drop the driver tank again to fix the sender. For whatever reason that’s open now. If I pull the ep381 pump is there a carb pump? I’m really over this fitech. It ran fine before the swap. I guess I could get a sniper… this should work. I’m sending a video to fitech. All they’ve asked me so far is if it runs better without the handheld. Hopefully the video will tell them if it’s the ecu or what
