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Yank Tank Molotov/3+3, 454/magnum/Allison

'84 K30 Silverado "big Dooley"
Overview Gallery Discussion
Finally got some time to tinker with this ongoing strip down of the L18. 2 studs and one broken to remove on the passenger side and 3 broke and one whole to remove on the driver. I guess that's not bad for 197k heat cycles. Got 8mm nuts and the map gas torch ready. Gonna let them soak over night.

IMG_20180603_194256.jpg
 
grind broken bolt flat and clean .

mig weld on nut .

let cool .

heat up area around stud / broken bolt good and hot .i like oxy/act tourch with brazing tip for pin-point heat location .

turn new head ( welded on nut ) with wrench only real slow and fell it .

redo heat as needed . and cold water to shock the area also helps on stuborn ones .

otherwise go for it . just dont try and drill / tap that sucks .

i have had 2 motors i could not get them out . 460 ford iron head . machine shop said they were solid rust to the bottom . they got them tho on the bridge port . other was a dodge 3.9v6 center bot of shared ports would not come out . i gooped the gasket with HIGH heat copper rtv and let set overnight . no leaks as i seen it drive all over town for a long time.
 
sweetk30 said:
grind broken bolt flat and clean .

mig weld on nut .

let cool .

heat up area around stud / broken bolt good and hot .i like oxy/act tourch with brazing tip for pin-point heat location .

turn new head ( welded on nut ) with wrench only real slow and fell it .

redo heat as needed . and cold water to shock the area also helps on stuborn ones .

otherwise go for it . just dont try and drill / tap that sucks .

i have had 2 motors i could not get them out . 460 ford iron head . machine shop said they were solid rust to the bottom . they got them tho on the bridge port . other was a dodge 3.9v6 center bot of shared ports would not come out . i gooped the gasket with HIGH heat copper rtv and let set overnight . no leaks as i seen it drive all over town for a long time.
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Good idea I'll have to put my brazing tip on my torch, the others came out easily after a soak so I hope to double nut the broken studs as there's enough stud left to do that. They broke at the manifold. I definitely do not want to drill and tap them
 
Kay86K5 said:
I got real lucky that all my exhaust bolts came out with no problem...don't know how I got that lucky :D

Look at that older Husky in the background :waytogo:
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She ain't old she's a 14....:cool: Love my husky tho! Yea seems almost nobody gets lucky with these. This engine had a couple already snapped that were only hanging on by the heat shield :yikes:
 
SpeedlabDan said:
She ain't old she's a 14....:cool: Love my husky tho! Yea seems almost nobody gets lucky with these. This engine had a couple already snapped that were only hanging on by the heat shield :yikes:
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So common on all those (including 5.3 & 6.0)...just some small crap to deal with...still, will be worth it in the end. Are you going headers for your swap?

Ah, '14 aint that old, just seems old since the rage are the new Husky's (which is pretty much just a white KTM). I want to get a new bike sometime soon. I have an '08 CRF450 that still runs real good though...so kinda hard to justify such a large cost when I already have a bike that still runs good
 
Kay86K5 said:
So common on all those (including 5.3 & 6.0)...just some small crap to deal with...still, will be worth it in the end. Are you going headers for your swap?

Ah, '14 aint that old, just seems old since the rage are the new Husky's (which is pretty much just a white KTM). I want to get a new bike sometime soon. I have an '08 CRF450 that still runs real good though...so kinda hard to justify such a large cost when I already have a bike that still runs good
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Yes Goin stainless headers so I don't have to clearance the frame.
I just paid that bike off last year and I've only ride it once sins king of the hammers 2015 lol found an interest in trucks... I do love the new ones like a hausaberg/KTM in blue and white but when this BMW/Italian backed red head came out in 09 I was smitten with the body lines n finally got one bc my 01 cr250 couldn't be tagged in jersey. That's the only way to ride here in the woods unless you race hare/Enduro. I'm not built for mx anymore
 
So after a few more weeks of soaking I got two more manifold studs out cold. Two more to go and they're too short to double nut. Welded nuts and I'm heating with my brazing torch to concentrate the heat but these heads got beef! Shot em with more pb blaster after heating I'll try again later no sense causing more trouble for myself.

IMG_20180617_122522.jpg
 
Got a wild hare after work n decided to try the last broken stud... Vise grips for the win!
And the p/s pump, alternator, and some odds are in from rock auto.
Next week I'm gonna drop some serious cash with ORD on the magnum, triple stick, engine cross member and some proper brake lines.
IMG_20180621_211347.jpg
 
SpeedlabDan said:
No I'm gonna run all the stock parts off the 8.1so the p/s cooler and the 2001 radiator are goin back in. Why do you ask?
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Just wondering. I deleted those suckers immediately. I can't stand those oil coolers. Some like them, and you can run them if you want...I was just curious is all.

You running stock exhaust manifolds or headers?
 
Kay86K5 said:
Just wondering. I deleted those suckers immediately. I can't stand those oil coolers. Some like them, and you can run them if you want...I was just curious is all.

You running stock exhaust manifolds or headers?
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I'm gonna run headers so I don't have the clearance issues. I figure if I run all the stock running gear I'll have the reliability of the donor truck which is pretty good I just didn't know if you had a better reason not to
 
SpeedlabDan said:
I'm gonna run headers so I don't have the clearance issues. I figure if I run all the stock running gear I'll have the reliability of the donor truck which is pretty good I just didn't know if you had a better reason not to
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I'm sure you know, but when running headers, the stock driver side knock sensor won't work (clearance issue with headers). Larry listed the part number for the different knock sensor you need in the swap page and it goes in a different location. Passenger side is fine, its just driver side
 
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