CK5
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The reason the PCM has an input is so that it can know if it's in Park or Neutral to account for the load of the trans/torque converter. Looks like they got that set right in the harness.

So is the larger connector not wired into the harness?
Larger is not wired at all. I was told the other was the only necessary connection to the tcm/pcm
 
Those 4 wires are 5,6,7,8 that are in the white plug if I'm understanding this schematic. Honestly I'm a bit confused by this schematic. Is the orange and black what's not connected or the black/why but I'm not sure where they need to go


Ok I've mixed them up in my head too. C1 is the white 4 pin connector. That is the one that is providing the input to the TCM. The 7 pin connector has the orange/black wire that goes back to the PCM. This circuit is probably not why it won't shift though.

Which brings us back to the white 4 pin connector. That's the one we need to see what is going on with the scan tool. By either seeing a code setting or just watching the pids change from one gear selection to the next. If you can't see it we just end up guessing.
 
Ok I've mixed them up in my head too. C1 is the white 4 pin connector. That is the one that is providing the input to the TCM. The 7 pin connector has the orange/black wire that goes back to the PCM. This circuit is probably not why it won't shift though.

Which brings us back to the white 4 pin connector. That's the one we need to see what is going on with the scan tool. By either seeing a code setting or just watching the pids change from one gear selection to the next. If you can't see it we just end up guessing.
I see. I guess there's also a possibility of this switch being bad or not sending/scrambling the signal? I hate to throw money at it but I guess I need to monitor the signals and find out first
 
I see. I guess there's also a possibility of this switch being bad or not sending/scrambling the signal? I hate to throw money at it but I guess I need to monitor the signals and find out first
DON'T go out and buy a new switch. I'm not sure you need one yet. See what you can do to get your hands on a scan tool to get an idea of what the TCM is getting for an input.
 
DON'T go out and buy a new switch. I'm not sure you need one yet. See what you can do to get your hands on a scan tool to get an idea of what the TCM is getting for an input.
I'm gonna try to set up with my friend tomorrow and limp it to his shop. Really hope it's something simple
 
Addex som body/chassis grounds today bc everything goes through the engine block before. Allison still in limp after adding some fluid. Runs great from 20-35 mph stuck in 3rd hahaha. I do think I have my fuel guage issue and oil psi sender staitened out. Not for sure as I had to fly to the doctor before final wiring.
I started pulling wires off the dakota dash one at a time with the key on. Pulled a 12v source to the speed sensor and the oil psi dropped to zero as it wasn't running. Started and it's good. Bench tested the fuel pump and sender direct to the dash controller and that works. I'm not real wild about relying on the dash to ground the pump but well see if it grounds itself back out through the tank strap and gets screwed up again. It could have been the hot feed as well

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IMG_20181119_124638.jpg
 
Also scored a Silverado dash panel and this module/heat sink thing I don't have a name for but haven't been able to find. The wipers come on automatic once n a while even after rewiring the entire harness to the fuse block that was completely melted. Hope it helps

IMG_20181125_210103.jpg
 
This thing is badass! Any luck on the limp mode or did I just miss the fix?
Thanks man! I'm waitin on an nsbu (shift selector) switch from rock auto they say it should be here dec3 but I hope sooner. I also have o2 sensor Insufficient activity on both banks with two new sensors. That's making it run terrible as well as possible derate. Not sure what to do about the o2s yet. It's said the voltage needs to be within 0.1v and 0.9v rich. Almost positive there aren't any leaks in the exhaust collectors and they're grounded. It could be a vacuum leak I suppose
 
Yeah I've done a couple of those NSBU switches when I worked at the truck shop. Glad it's an easy fix. Hopefully the Rock Auto switch is a decent one.
 

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