Once again, just glad I could help
CK5
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you most certainly did. you are what makes a site like this awesomeOnce again, just glad I could help
I was able to get back to the junkyard and get that bracket, so here are the pics:
the flat bracket on the left is the one from the '95, the one on the right is the '82.
unfortunately, because this bracket isn't flat, I can't get the nut off.
in case that's hard to read, the caliper reads 1 7/8". since I couldn't get the nut off at the junkyard, I just took apart the back of the hydroboost.
of course that still leaves me with the problem at home. the flat bracket was easy, I just put a big pipe wrench on it and spun it off. this one is recessed, so I'm currently stumped. I guess get my hands on a 1-7/8" wrench?
If there's one close I'd go to a place that works on big trucks and ask them to break it loose for you. A wrench that big is gonna be $20-$30 probably
good idea. I'm sure there has got to be something around. I'll throw it in the car and take it to work with me tomorrow and see what I can find on lunch.
You might also try to find some square tube with a 1-7/8" ID and cut a short section and make your own wrench... Could be pretty snazzy
hmmm, 2" square tubing with 1/8" wall sounds just about right. 
bet I could find that at home depot!
bet I could find that at home depot!
just remembered that I had some square tubing so I tried it... corners were too wide, so it wouldn't fit in the depression.You might also try to find some square tube with a 1-7/8" ID and cut a short section and make your own wrench... Could be pretty snazzy
damn.
can you cut the corners off at an angle? I doubt that it would have to be THAT strong. Course I've been wrong before...
if I can't find something else tomorrow, I'll try it, but I would think it would flare out pretty easily. guess it depends on how deep I have to make the cuts.
I took it into a chevy dealership this morning on the way to work to see if their service department could remove the nut for me. so far, it doesn't look good.
although it's hard to see in this pic, there is a notch in the hydroboost on the left hand side with some sort of lock that slides into it. according to the mechanic I talked to, he had a socket big enough to fit over the nut, but there is a special tool needed to push that lock piece into the nut so that it can be turned. he claimed that it was not designed to be removed.
I told him that was nuts. how the hell are you supposed to replace a hydroboost if you can't get the bracket off?!? they kept it for the day and are going to show it to some old timer mechanic that comes in later to see if he has any ideas.
gonna post this in the garage to see if more eyes will yield a solution.
although it's hard to see in this pic, there is a notch in the hydroboost on the left hand side with some sort of lock that slides into it. according to the mechanic I talked to, he had a socket big enough to fit over the nut, but there is a special tool needed to push that lock piece into the nut so that it can be turned. he claimed that it was not designed to be removed.
I told him that was nuts. how the hell are you supposed to replace a hydroboost if you can't get the bracket off?!? they kept it for the day and are going to show it to some old timer mechanic that comes in later to see if he has any ideas.
gonna post this in the garage to see if more eyes will yield a solution.
turns out that if you can't figure out how to get a nut off, an air chisel and a torch will solve the problem. bracket free, time to start bolting stuff up!
Nice! I was thinking that, but figured I'd let you see if you could get it off the "normal" way first.
yeah, I was hoping there was a "right" way, but sometimes on a nut that has been heated and cooled over and over again for 30years, banging the hell out of it IS the right way. :P
true story. You have the nut off the 95 that's usable still right?
I do. they didn't destroy the other nut, its just fugly now, but I'll use the one from the '95 anyway.
I forgot what a pain in the ass it is to remove the rotors on my D44 once they've rusted on there good and solid.
I was using a block of wood and a sledge to beat on them from several different angles with no luck.
I finally said screw it, I'll buy new ones, and dropped the block of wood and just beat on them directly. still no dice.
I'm thinking it might be time to bite the bullet and get my hands on a torch so I can heat them up.
any other "tricks"?
I was using a block of wood and a sledge to beat on them from several different angles with no luck.
I finally said screw it, I'll buy new ones, and dropped the block of wood and just beat on them directly. still no dice.
I'm thinking it might be time to bite the bullet and get my hands on a torch so I can heat them up.
any other "tricks"?
You took all the bearings apart and stuff right? Just making sure, no insult intended.
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If it's been a long long long time your bearing might be seized to the spindle. heat will work but you may need new bearings after that.That rotor should fall right off
Just sayin'
it's a D44, so the rotor just slides over the lugs. looks like this:
they should just slide right off, but the damn things are rusted tight to the hub assembly.
Just sayin'
I hate you. :P
