Neutral safety should just interrupt the relay wire to the starter solenoid. Weird that all the electrical died.
CK5
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Neutral safety should just interrupt the relay wire to the starter solenoid. Weird that all the electrical died.
Team208Motorsports
Its Magic Bitch
So no jerking and instant die. You didn't hurt the pump with the bearing in did you? Just trying to think of what would cause instant die with no movement. I would disconnect the converter and fire it. See if the problem follows.
The only thing I can think of is that somehow I have the ground for everything running through the switch, or maybe I need to wire the 5th pin on the neutral switch to either power or ground.
I don't think so. It starts up just fine in park and neutral. The pump would still be engaged at that point, right?
Team208Motorsports
Its Magic Bitch
Should be. With your wiring. Unless you are somehow killing power or ground, but I doubt that. It should run without the NSBU switch. You could un plug it and see if it runs then.
I'll pull the plug and short the pins and see if that does it. BRB
Team208Motorsports
Its Magic Bitch
Just pull the plug and try running it.
Ok, somehow I must be killing the ground to more than just the starter relay. I shorted the 2 pins and it stays running in every gear.
The way I have it wired, if I pull the plug then the starter relay will never get ground. It grounds through the switch.
Team208Motorsports
Its Magic Bitch
K. At least it's narrowed down
Thanks for helping track it down. 
The way things were wired before was I had a wire coming out of my fuse/relay box that connected to my engine harness and then to ground.
I cut this wire and connected the ground side to pin E and the fuse/relay side to pin G of the neutral safety switch.
When the switch is closed (it is in park or neutral) everything works fine, so I am definitely getting ground. The only thing I can think of is that on the fuse/relay box side of the wire it must connect to something other than just the starter relay. When whatever that is loses ground, the engine dies.
I'll have to trace that out tomorrow.
The way things were wired before was I had a wire coming out of my fuse/relay box that connected to my engine harness and then to ground.
I cut this wire and connected the ground side to pin E and the fuse/relay side to pin G of the neutral safety switch.
When the switch is closed (it is in park or neutral) everything works fine, so I am definitely getting ground. The only thing I can think of is that on the fuse/relay box side of the wire it must connect to something other than just the starter relay. When whatever that is loses ground, the engine dies.
I'll have to trace that out tomorrow.
Found the problem. I had run the starter, ignition and fuel pump relays all to the same ground wire. I just had to separate the starter relay wire out and connect that to the switch while the others went straight to ground.
I don't have a rear driveshaft (I need a new one to match the SYE kit), but I was able to test drive it a bit running with the front driveshaft. Everything seems to shift well.
My only complaint at the moment is the gates on the Lokar shifter aren't great. It does a good job of locking park from reverse unless you hit the button but it bumps easily from Drive to Neutral. I'm hoping there is some adjustment I can make to fix that.
I don't have a rear driveshaft (I need a new one to match the SYE kit), but I was able to test drive it a bit running with the front driveshaft. Everything seems to shift well.
My only complaint at the moment is the gates on the Lokar shifter aren't great. It does a good job of locking park from reverse unless you hit the button but it bumps easily from Drive to Neutral. I'm hoping there is some adjustment I can make to fix that.
that's kinda why I like gated or ratchet shifters...... glad ya got it running! 
Time to solve the next problem:
I'm going to try and reroute the emergency brake cable to just over the rear of the transfer case rather than behind it. In order to do that I'm going to have to shorten the holding rod pictured on the right. That shouldn't be a big deal to cut down and reweld. The attachment on the left is adjustable, so even easier. Of course doing all of that will mean that I need a longer cable.
I'm not sure where to get a custom length cable. Any ideas?
I'm going to try and reroute the emergency brake cable to just over the rear of the transfer case rather than behind it. In order to do that I'm going to have to shorten the holding rod pictured on the right. That shouldn't be a big deal to cut down and reweld. The attachment on the left is adjustable, so even easier. Of course doing all of that will mean that I need a longer cable.
I'm not sure where to get a custom length cable. Any ideas?
can you relocate the front mounting points closer to gather to gain enough slack? that would also get it from under the the cat.
possibly. I'll know more when I start messing with it this evening. It looks like a universal cable won't be hard to find though.
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-21119-...8&qid=1452099021&sr=8-1&keywords=dorman+21119
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-21119-...8&qid=1452099021&sr=8-1&keywords=dorman+21119
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Cool stuff!
I had inline tube make the cable that goes from the frame to the backing plate 3" longer to account for the lift.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I also rerouted my cable like you need to. Inlinetube did it for a reasonable price too. I also made a small plate that bolts on top of the transfer case to keep the cable from rubbing on the sharper edges of the xcase
hmmm, I'll have to keep that in mind. I hadn't really thought about it before.
Thanks for the inline tube suggestion too.
