CK5
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So I guess I am being pretty hard on this and it’s had enough for this round. I cracked the cage at the a pillar tie in to the shock hoop. I may have had a cold weld on this joint also but I have no idea as that was years ago and it was using spray transfer which I am told is a different weld process.. I’ll check this up to tuition.. 95A9C586-A0EB-47F1-9A3F-1F7D6FF0F267.jpeg

I also bent a tie rod and it cracked.. it was 1.5x.120 sleeved with 1.25x.120 4130 which will be replaced with something 1.75 prob .250 but we’ll see. I bent it back and welded the crack up just to move it around the yard.
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I also have been having issues with the front sheetmetal moving around like crazy. I missed the fact that I stabilized the core support but where it connects to the body at the firewall there was only one point of contact which obviously cracked, I added a down spar to prevent it from rocking up and down. Once these were bolted up it was instantly more stable. Driving through the backyard it didn’t move at all which was much better than before. Yea it’s angle iron but it’s all I got. And for the record, I don’t consider myself a great fabricator nor do I have the time or practice to become one, this is purely out of necessity, a lot of my fixes are because this thing gets used a lot and having it down for a long period is no bueno. eventually it’ll be cut up and redone with a chassis but the cashola isn’t present for that.

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Who remembers this mad science project?
Since my good buddy has gone to rzr camp(yes yes I question his manhood) this has been sitting for it feels like 2 years now needs to be used before it really rots..
so we’ve worked out a deal and I’ll be retrofitting it onto Lucy. Should be a fun project, working with @jkroberts to get it setup and looking nice. It’s time for a bit of cleanup and redo on a few things.
Build my cage to handle the possible extra stress from the mezz arm and make it safer to mitigate death at higher speeds. It’s about a 50mph truck out there through reasonable stuff currently. Fastest i have ever tracked it was 71 in JV through sand washes. Now it should be capable of handling that through a much bigger hole.

I’ll get concept working and tuned then panel in the back. I’ll be enlisting a old timer buddy for this who said he’d teach me how not to screw up the sheet metal.

decide drive train combo so I can fit the link mounts in the proper place, could include moving engine and trans forward for driveline clearance. Possible choices are bbc/400 or 4l80 with a ford 208 for a possible ttb swap later.. I haven’t decided mainly because I don’t know how much longer that is going to be over my current sbc/350 w 7 in tail housing is.
Get new seats.. dear god mine are trashed, also fit two in back with newfound extra space. No longer trailing arm so no shocks up front.
Build in tool box and spare tire/fluids holding into rear cage somehow.
There is more but it will be less critical..


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Kind of an ambiguous post there Steve-o

where the rest of the details about no front shocks n stuff?
 
Kind of an ambiguous post there Steve-o

where the rest of the details about no front shocks n stuff?
Hey I dream big OKAY!

I guess my brain ain’t working these days..
so the front shock comment was related to an idea to put a trailing arm on the truck, meaning there would be shocks in the passengers area and would consume space, but now with the rear mounted arm the shocks will end up behind the back seats.
 
Hey I dream big OKAY!

I guess my brain ain’t working these days..
so the front shock comment was related to an idea to put a trailing arm on the truck, meaning there would be shocks in the passengers area and would consume space, but now with the rear mounted arm the shocks will end up behind the back seats.
Engrish better!
 
What's going to happen to the green one when you swipe the goodies from it?

I'm excited to see a move back to 4wd even with the Ford parts!
 
What's going to happen to the green one when you swipe the goodies from it?

I'm excited to see a move back to 4wd even with the Ford parts!
The 4wd thing is back up in the air until I can find a suitable geometry that will cycle the travel and not plunge 4 inches which is how it is setup on the green blazer. So that’s where we are at until the mock-up is done. One thought I had was to run a land rover lt230 case which has an offset output and is all gear drive, also has underdrive. But I don’t know how far a 14 bolt can be offset. So I’ll have to look into if that’s even worth doing or not.. I need to drop the output down a few inches to fix this issue.
 
The 4wd thing is back up in the air until I can find a suitable geometry that will cycle the travel and not plunge 4 inches which is how it is setup on the green blazer. So that’s where we are at until the mock-up is done. One thought I had was to run a land rover lt230 case which has an offset output and is all gear drive, also has underdrive. But I don’t know how far a 14 bolt can be offset. So I’ll have to look into if that’s even worth doing or not.. I need to drop the output down a few inches to fix this issue.
How about a high pinion center section, or does that move too far up on the front?

thinking adapting to a Land Rover case will be mostly spendy
 
How about a high pinion center section, or does that move too far up on the front?

thinking adapting to a Land Rover case will be mostly spendy
The front diff is gonna be high pinion and I haven’t thought about that yet.. the rear is the big prob
 

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