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CK5
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79 K5 Prerunner "Lucy"
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
I would love a turning brake but I started thinking the sprag in the trans and overrun clutch might hate me and blow out with the sudden stop, I figured the bias control and flicking the chassis would give me the same results.????
I understand the concept of locking up the back.
In fact I have been considering it myself for a while. It would help a lot in sticky situations and not cause the nose to dive.
I think a cutter brake applied to the rear axle only mounted by your shifter would be much better than something that is adjustable...
In fact I have been considering it myself for a while. It would help a lot in sticky situations and not cause the nose to dive.
I think a cutter brake applied to the rear axle only mounted by your shifter would be much better than something that is adjustable...
This actually does more than what that does because I can still brake but move more of that braking force to the back, preventing the front from locking up in the first place and allowing me to initiate a slide without upsetting the chassis too much, like a quick stab of the pedal.
I'm not opposed to a turning brake but I don't see the effectiveness with a spooled axles because the wheel speeds are the same. And the chances of me breaking an axle are much higher vs just adjusting the brake bias.
I'm not opposed to a turning brake but I don't see the effectiveness with a spooled axles because the wheel speeds are the same. And the chances of me breaking an axle are much higher vs just adjusting the brake bias.
Here's is my thought path on this, you are approaching a corner possibly a 90-180 degree turn you trail brake into the corner and Scandinavian flick the truck around the corner using the brakes to unload the back tires and drive the truck around the corner, the whole time having front tires that are not skidding because of too much front bias..
I like this idea. Set it where you want it then fine tune it as you go. A single cutting brake will work with a spool but IMHO this keeps it simple and keeps you from having to search for levers as you're bouncing through the desert.
Just set it up to lock both, like a hydro e brake, will have to set up for a corner but will still lock them and get the back around
I only say this because playing with the brake biased while racing in my opinion is cumbersom, get the brakes setup where the truck stops the best without locking up the fronts, then have a hydro e-brake. I've had situations where I needed all the brakes I had and i didn't have time to turn something back or move a lever, only takes one time turning the front off and not turning them back and something happens and you need more brake.
Put your handle on your side, like between your hips and knees, put it at a height that is easy to come down from the steering wheel and land on it, you will never miss it. I have thousands of miles behind the wheel of a desert car, I've never once missed my brake lever.
I only say this because playing with the brake biased while racing in my opinion is cumbersom, get the brakes setup where the truck stops the best without locking up the fronts, then have a hydro e-brake. I've had situations where I needed all the brakes I had and i didn't have time to turn something back or move a lever, only takes one time turning the front off and not turning them back and something happens and you need more brake.
Put your handle on your side, like between your hips and knees, put it at a height that is easy to come down from the steering wheel and land on it, you will never miss it. I have thousands of miles behind the wheel of a desert car, I've never once missed my brake lever.
@ClassicStyle
Not trying to argue or anything and your totally right about the function, my main beef with the hydro brake is the abuse it puts into the drivetrain, I'd run one if I had a built th400 and 14 bolt and wasn't the slightest bit worried about breaking something internal, as far as bias is concerned it's more for the fact that several people will be driving this car and they all drive differently, it's not to adjust it all the time, I'm like you when it's good I prob will never touch it again, but I want the ability to change it should I change something about the truck like the tire size or fuel capacity or change the ride height or anything that would effect the trucks natural feel dramatically enough for me to want to change that.
I rip the ebrake in my BMW to initiate the slide into corners because it's not powerful enough to start and maintain the slide at higher speeds so it needs that extra bit. But this is 107 inch wheelbase blazer which is already damn tail happy as it were before this. I'm not against putting the hydro e brake in and I could be overestimating this possibility of the damage?? I dunno??
Not trying to argue or anything and your totally right about the function, my main beef with the hydro brake is the abuse it puts into the drivetrain, I'd run one if I had a built th400 and 14 bolt and wasn't the slightest bit worried about breaking something internal, as far as bias is concerned it's more for the fact that several people will be driving this car and they all drive differently, it's not to adjust it all the time, I'm like you when it's good I prob will never touch it again, but I want the ability to change it should I change something about the truck like the tire size or fuel capacity or change the ride height or anything that would effect the trucks natural feel dramatically enough for me to want to change that.
I rip the ebrake in my BMW to initiate the slide into corners because it's not powerful enough to start and maintain the slide at higher speeds so it needs that extra bit. But this is 107 inch wheelbase blazer which is already damn tail happy as it were before this. I'm not against putting the hydro e brake in and I could be overestimating this possibility of the damage?? I dunno??
I never ran with a auto, I've always been in transaxle open wheel cars. What are the TT guys running? I've always been told to never downshift and engine brake a 400, I'd think as long as you not on the throttle it will be no more strain on it then a long whoop section.
Get the truck together, run your brake lines so that adding a brake isn't a complete re-plumb and run the truck without, set your bias and see if you need a brake. I mis understood and though you intended to adjust on the fly, which in my opinion is asking for a mistake.
Get the truck together, run your brake lines so that adding a brake isn't a complete re-plumb and run the truck without, set your bias and see if you need a brake. I mis understood and though you intended to adjust on the fly, which in my opinion is asking for a mistake.
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I've heard that too?? I beat on my th350 downshifting like a manual car, huh if that's the case I'm gonna look into why not.. tt guys are using 400s. If I can't use engine braking I'll swap a freaking stick into this.. growing up on motorcycles and on pavement teaches you to use the engine braking to your advantage.. id have to relearn to drive..
I use to work with Racer off-road (in az, not dondale in Cali) and their trans builder for the TT said not to, with that being said, i engine brake everything I own. But I've never owned a TT with a 400, your truck is considerably lighter than a loaded TT so?? I don't know, just what I was told.
So I poked around on race Dezert a bit and find that it's mostly because guys will grab a gear as they're slowing down and not Rev match or at least try to match the rpm, thus blowing the trans up because the overrun clutch and sprag are super pissed off and can't slow the trans and the wheels down for the downshift I guess?? Ive been doing this for years and years and have never had a failure on any of my own transmissions.. not even a hint of a problem, but I do match the rpm so braking and pressing the throttle at the same time to equalize the load or to bring the wheel speed into line with the engine speed so when it shifts down it's not like drop shifting a manual and dragging the wheels.
Glad we're on the same page here, makes me happy to know I'm not loosing it with my driving style. And I'd hope to god in lighter than a TT IT BETTER BE!
Makes sense, I concur with all concurences, and I do the same when required both auto/manual. my ctsv does it for me cause it's well a Cadillac haha
And yes, if your truck is close to a TT in weight, I'm not sure you'll get going fast enough to need a hand brake. Or brakes in general for that matter.
And yes, if your truck is close to a TT in weight, I'm not sure you'll get going fast enough to need a hand brake. Or brakes in general for that matter.
My diesel is close in weight and it can't even do the speed limit up the hills near me.. I'd hope this with the gearing choices should go at least 56mph.. one can only hope though..
but it should do 88mph in the whoops and 130 on the lakebed.. both shall be tested.
Are you sure you wanna be going 88MPH?
Why yes... good things happen at that speed, just like everything sounds better turned up to eleven.Are you sure you wanna be going 88MPH?
Jimi Hendrix/ 90mph is the speed I drive- crosstown traffic
Wait??? I thought you were building a bronco? Is this yours?
