CK5
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Thanks man it's pretty awesome. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1434862538.900533.jpg
Bent up and notched tube to get arms finally set up. Then to plate and simple die!!!!

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Got them on the truck and tacked up. Just need to track down some 4130 .065 plate so we can truss them.
Now one thing I found out which many have pointed out, the inherent bind that radius arms impose. I grabbed the driver side and pulled up, I got about an inch off the jack stand before I reached significant force. I could see if flexing my frame bracket. Then I yanked the bolt from the driver side upper and did the same thing but now technically it was a 3 link. And I could freely move the axle as far as I wanted.. Pretty crazy. I actually didn't tack my axle brackets on well enough and twisted it off the housing lol.. So yea they bind a bit, that's fine imho because it negates the need for a anti sway bar. And if I want I can pull a bolt and flex it like mad. I love when you actually find this stuff out in real life instead of paper lol.

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It looks nice! I like trussed beam style.

Are your arms going to hit the frame during uptravel or are they outside the frame at that point? (right under the rocker panel gap in that picture)

FYI, I took one upper arm loose once for some testing and I couldn't tell much difference under actual driving. I do have bushings on the upper and lower axle mounts though.
 
So I already planned on limiting my uptravel but I'll have to measure again because the original idea didn't kick up like it does now. I think it's really close or I'll have to cut the body mount a little for clearance.
My lowers are heim which might be why I see the difference, also I am just lifting it with my arms so maybe with the weight of the truck it's not as pronounced.
 
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Going to trim the body mount just up front, limits my uptravel 3 inches or so.
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This is full droop, pretty happy the caster never went positive. Making the arms as long as they are and low are result of this.
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When the trail gets slow I can pull a bolt from the driver side upper and flex like this.
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My little guy loves trucks so for Father's Day I bought this grave digger rc car. He thought it was pretty cool.

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Does the clearance to the frame still fit when articulated?

When do you think you will have the shocks mocked up?
 
I'll have to wait to really see until the trackbar is mounted up. Then I'll be able to tell.
 
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Crowded at bump
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More grinding to do here.
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Cut pipe to short so heims have to be fully out for the mock up. I am going to thicker tube probally .188 wall as this is to small.
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Full droop axle is pulled 2 inches to the side and 1 inch at bump.
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Good shot shows how close it really is.
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Interesting angle. I may change the axle side. We'll see lots of stuff is in the way..

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Looks great dude, these pictures almost looks like they could be mine!! Sheryl similar and we ran into the same problems it seems.
 
Yea lol makes sense.. Same trucks. But I think there will be more room once I trim the crossmember down and brace it. We'll see.. Not sure how much it's worth for 1.5 inches more up travel. And I don't even know if the tires will fit that stuffed.
 
How much travel you have? What's the percentage of bump vs droop? I have mine set at a 47% bump travel out of 14 inches.

I hear from the race car crowed the magic number is 50% bump travel. Sense were building race trucks I wanted it as close as I could and still park it in a standard garage.:thumb:
 
Lol dude I just read that part of your thread, I had no idea you had all the same issues I am lol.. I am 7-8 up and 8-9 down. If I limit the travel to 16 inches I never go positive with caster. So I think that's a wise plan. My driveshaft plunge measures 2-3.5 inches.. I just taped it at bump and droop and it doesn't plunge much. Right now I have the trackbar oriented just in front of the diff cover bolt.. I have a little room if I adjust the axle side. I'm pretty confident I'll make it fit. Kiss is my plan at this point.. No sense it making it more of a pita if I don't gain something from it.
 
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