CK5
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This was spiraling out of control just like most of my stupid ideas do.. One direction then the other, then back... etc. I had considered converting this to a crew cab, I sat and thought about this, talked to a few more friends and realized that if I was going to do anything I would like to start from square one, not redo the work that ive done already. Upgrades are one thing but a complete redo is years...
So its staying a blazer, I may still backhalf it if needed but Im not 100% convinced with the height its bumping at up front if that is justified, if I leave the ride height where it was I only have 9 inches of uptravel. So a small notch maybe 3 inches may happen and then the cage will reinforce it.. once I get scotts truck over here Ill assess with the links mocked up.
 
For reference, the bottom of my radius arm is 9 inches from the ground at bump, if i bump the rear at the frame it should be almost level. the farther i bump the back up, the closer the arms get to the ground..
 
Center line?



Waiting for the beams to come off...
Not gonna do that after all.. to full retard for this one..
removed bumps from truck and here is the result.

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I gained 2 inches up, I question if a 37 or a 40 would fit.. it would be tight.. I gotta borrow one of my buddies tires to check.. but this with mods to my steering would physically work.. so maybe this is where it ends up..
oh and that last pic of the cl was when I was gonna bump the tire to the window. Now it’s near the bottom of the door.
 
I did a few things this weekend. Prepped all my laser cut parts for welding and the frame. Took everything down and then sanded it all with the d/a like the pros, I tend to get caught up in deadlines which makes the process more stressful and I don’t do my best work. Trying to step this up so I get a better end result.
So.. this is what I have traditionally called a mezzanine rear suspension, ironically myself and Scott both feel like that makes no sense but the market calls it that. If it was up to me it would be a rear pivoting horizontally mounted cantilever, or RPHMC.
What is going on here is we’ve taken a design that is not prevalent but is very useful for anyone trying to keep back seats, or anyone wanting to move the moment of inertia back to the bumper essentially. the implications of doing that are not fully understood just yet, I have ideas about it based on driving Scott’s rig previously but we knew the solid axle held it back. what’s also nice about this is the shock package is moved rearward, this also mitigates any leverage you would see if the shock was mounted in the traditional location of a trailing arm. Therefore the increase in weight as a result of that and the drop in ride height is totally eliminated. So if you pack gear or anything heavy like people in the weight changes are all relative vs being leveraged.


We use a gm 1500 front unit bearing for this, it could easily be changed over to a 4wd bearing and an anti sway bar could be equipped. We aren’t proposing this because the arm is 45 inches long and that would require a large bar, being 33 spline that didn’t seem possible or cost effective. I’ll be packaging a sway bar in this which I will show once I get further along.

The basic layout is the bearing and spacers to set the bearing out away from the frame the proper amount, along with allowing a 3.5od pipe to keep the spacing proper on the rear portion and also to take the torsional load so the frame does not have to, if you can imagine there is a huge about of load on that bearing. We have a frame plate at the back to help brace it and to help in locating it properly.

this will be getting 2.5 coilovers and 3.0 bypasses at some point. This should be plenty for what I’m going to do.
One point I didn’t touch on is the shock package will be up and out of the way and the shock will only cycle in one plane. There is no horizontal misalignment. Shaft bushings and shafts should last a lot longer as will the bodies because they will be out of the way of the elements. Roost off the rear tire will be mitigated by bodywork once it’s done and enclosed. Cooling will likely be assisted by some window scoops or similar.


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Doood! Awesome, I can't wait to see this come together, keep on keeping on.
 
Dude your supposed to put the 4x4 hubs on the front, not the back. And I just got a good idea for the swaybar. Basically run the bar right under the 3.5" tube off the back. Then short arm and short link to the mezz arm.
 
Dude your supposed to put the 4x4 hubs on the front, not the back. And I just got a good idea for the swaybar. Basically run the bar right under the 3.5" tube off the back. Then short arm and short link to the mezz arm.

Or run a superduty unit bearing and put the bar through the unit bearing, you can just get a bar made that’s spline for 35 spline and use drive slugs, or even put a lockout on 1 side for sway bar disconnect lol, be hard to line back up level sometimes though.

edit, I just read his whole post, I see he mentions this but since the arm is so long makes sense not to.
 
I don’t know why but for some reason I cannot work on this consistently, so it comes in blocks, sorry for that.. it’s life I guess?
in classic fashion I just decided one morning to bust this out. Got it close enough and burned it in. Close enough at this level is good enough for me and for it to function. I didn’t realize how much the driver side framerail was bent out, I also don’t know how it got that way? But it certainly mucked things up for me in such a way it threw my whole plan of welding the assembly off the truck, mainly because it would have placed the arms unevenly spaced from the frame which is the critical measurement. So with that in the trash I basically fudged it onto the truck as best I could. I measured 3x at the arm from the frame before welding and the parts ended up wherever they wanted. The passenger arm is 1/2 inch off where I initially placed it. I can shim that, figure if it’s off 1/2 inch that is over a 44 inch span so an 1/8th is all I should need to bring it in at the hub for a spacer. We had similar issues with Scott’s rig but in the other direction as it was to close to the frame and it hit the bumpstop can. Spacing it fixed that. It’s a squarebody, the closest you’ll get is 1/8th!
I also made a decision to try some air bags for no other reason to just try air bags. I’m not building a whoop destroying monster I just want it to be comfortable and fun and multifaceted.

onto the pics of my shiat and barely acceptable welding.

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I don’t know why but for some reason I cannot work on this consistently, so it comes in blocks, sorry for that.. it’s life I guess?
in classic fashion I just decided one morning to bust this out. Got it close enough and burned it in. Close enough at this level is good enough for me and for it to function. I didn’t realize how much the driver side framerail was bent out, I also don’t know how it got that way? But it certainly mucked things up for me in such a way it threw my whole plan of welding the assembly off the truck, mainly because it would have placed the arms unevenly spaced from the frame which is the critical measurement. So with that in the trash I basically fudged it onto the truck as best I could. I measured 3x at the arm from the frame before welding and the parts ended up wherever they wanted. The passenger arm is 1/2 inch off where I initially placed it. I can shim that, figure if it’s off 1/2 inch that is over a 44 inch span so an 1/8th is all I should need to bring it in at the hub for a spacer. We had similar issues with Scott’s rig but in the other direction as it was to close to the frame and it hit the bumpstop can. Spacing it fixed that. It’s a squarebody, the closest you’ll get is 1/8th!
I also made a decision to try some air bags for no other reason to just try air bags. I’m not building a whoop destroying monster I just want it to be comfortable and fun and multifaceted.

onto the pics of my shiat and barely acceptable welding.

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Hell yeah brother. Do those mezzanine hubs have a torsion bar between them?
 
No torsion on these hubs, because the arm is so long I am going to put an anti sway bar forward of the pivot and link that to the inside of the arm with a short link. I don’t know yet how much it’s going to need but with the limited spline in the 4wd hub 33 I won’t be able to get a very large bar anyways so it’s probably moot. I actually had considered getting rid of this but the wife and friends convinced me otherwise.
 
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