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'81 K5, "BlaZeus"- How to NOT build the ultimate budget K5; 3 & 4 link build

Use the grinder dude. What thickness is that material for your shock mount? It could be the pics, but it looks very thin.
Also that gusset should be more of a trapezoid then a triangle.
Lol why a trapezoid instead of a triangle? It's a gusset. I wasn't even gonna put them on here cuz people who have seen it in person say that it would be fine without them but I had some time last night and just did them.
 
It's not mine. It's my buddies who I share my shop with but I get to use it when I want to.

Go buy a drag tip for it, they just screw on in place of the standard tip. Takes a whole 30 seconds to swap.

They are not that much money, and are such an awesome tool. Offset the ruler about an 1/8" off of your line, and use it as a guide for a perfect straight cut.

Use a paint can lid, or grinder wheels, or anything with an arc to follow, and you can use it as a guide to cut perfect oddball shapes as well.

It will look better, and you will save time.

And it will look better.
 
Damn I need to get a plasma. Been wanting to get one and after reading @Deuling description, I REALLY want one. I get tired of having to grind down oxy-acetylene torched stuff.
 
Damn I need to get a plasma. Been wanting to get one and after reading @Deuling description, I REALLY want one. I get tired of having to grind down oxy-acetylene torched stuff.

I havent used a cut off wheel to cut anything in probably 2 years. Its time consuming and messy.
If you don't have access to a plasma or can't afford it, then yeah its a great cheap way to do it.

The drag tip though is one of the best inventions I can imagine for hand cutting metal.
 
When I get my own shop, one of the first tools I will buy will be Eastwood cut 60 or 45.

Very affordable and the eastwood welders and such have very good reviews.

Sorry for bogging up the thread. I just see all the nice brackets you spent lots of money on, and then you throw a rough cut plate on without even attempting to smooth it out, and it just seems really lazy.
 
When I get my own shop, one of the first tools I will buy will be Eastwood cut 60 or 45.

Very affordable and the eastwood welders and such have very good reviews.

Sorry for bogging up the thread. I just see all the nice brackets you spent lots of money on, and then you throw a rough cut plate on without even attempting to smooth it out, and it just seems really lazy.
I've always dreamed my thread would be the source of some derailing :haha:

Lol. I didn't spend any money on them. I designed all them on CAD and then cut them out using my buddy's plasma table.
What you call lazy, I call funcfficient. Functional and efficient . :D But thanks for the heads up on that tip. Seems like a great investment :thumb:
 
For what it's worth I have personally ridden in a buggy with a 366 that ran excellent with a 1406 carb.

Basically his trick was an electric fuel pump plumbed in parallel with his mechanical one, then the set the float very low and had a cheap parts store regulator that gave the carb just enough fuel to run properly during normal driving. Then when lots of power is needed the electric pump can be turned on to cram the extra fuel needed past the regulator.

Sounds funky but it works and very well, wouldn't have believed until i saw it done and rode with him at Disney, OK.
 
On the subject of the orientation of the heim joints...

A wish bone upper is ran with the bolt vertical at the axle end due to the heim being able to take way more side force.

So if a single upper rear heim is strong enough for trophy trucks and the like in that orientation, I am sure having 2 of them is perfectly ok. If he set the ride height angle correctly I doubt he will use the 35 degrees or whatever a heim joint has in it.
 
Lol why a trapezoid instead of a triangle? It's a gusset. I wasn't even gonna put them on here cuz people who have seen it in person say that it would be fine without them but I had some time last night and just did them.


It's all about spreading the load, and adds asthetics when you can put a speed hole/dimple there.
 
It's all about spreading the load, and adds asthetics when you can put a speed hole/dimple there.
I'm actually looking back through my pile of sketch drawings when me and DTF were designing the shock mounts and saw that a trapezoidal gusset with a dimple in the middle was the original design...:doah::o....
Good thing I only tacked them in! If I have time once I get some of the bigger stuff knocked out I'll make some new ones. For now, I need to get this thing running!
Update : the guy who was gonna hook me up with a Hydroboost brake setup flaked, which I kinda expected from what I heard from other people who own shops around us...so I ordered a new brake Booster kit setup so that I'll actually be able to stop this thing completely...and so now the last monster I need to tackle is the carb issue.
 
For what it's worth I have personally ridden in a buggy with a 366 that ran excellent with a 1406 carb.

Basically his trick was an electric fuel pump plumbed in parallel with his mechanical one, then the set the float very low and had a cheap parts store regulator that gave the carb just enough fuel to run properly during normal driving. Then when lots of power is needed the electric pump can be turned on to cram the extra fuel needed past the regulator.

Sounds funky but it works and very well, wouldn't have believed until i saw it done and rode with him at Disney, OK.
Wow this is just what I was looking for! Thanks! I have an electric fuel pump hooked up now and I still have my mechanical fuel pump. Do you by chance know what psi he set his regulator to? Or how low he set the float?
 
For what it's worth I have personally ridden in a buggy with a 366 that ran excellent with a 1406 carb.

Basically his trick was an electric fuel pump plumbed in parallel with his mechanical one, then the set the float very low and had a cheap parts store regulator that gave the carb just enough fuel to run properly during normal driving. Then when lots of power is needed the electric pump can be turned on to cram the extra fuel needed past the regulator.

Sounds funky but it works and very well, wouldn't have believed until i saw it done and rode with him at Disney, OK.
Wait hold up a second, wasn't the reason my truck was dying on inclines because of the fact that I was getting too much fuel and it was choking out? Not sure how this setup would help me, besides the fuel regulator part which I have been considering...
 
I have heard the old timers used to turn the pressure down to 1 psi with a remote regulator on the floor, the electric pump idea could work but I'd be worried about it keeping up in the sand or something should you come up on it. Fuel pressure is easy to change.
 
Tuning a carb like that really is just a general idea you have to dial in.

I have run 1 psi before and lowered floats.

You pretty much do as low as possible while still allowing the rig to run.
 
Another thing you can do is to add some foam in the rear crossover to aid in slosh from one side to the other.
 
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/carter.php

carb0003.jpg
 
Lowered float did the most for me aside from the mods I mentioned above. That was using a mech pump. Would have preferred an electric in retrospect
 

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