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'81 K5, "BlaZeus"- How to NOT build the ultimate budget K5; 3 & 4 link build

Maybe it's just the pic, but the passenger side rail looks a lot lower than the driver side. If so, try to straighten them before you go any further. Gonna get a lot worse the more tube you throw in there.
 
Maybe it's just the pic, but the passenger side rail looks a lot lower than the driver side. If so, try to straighten them before you go any further. Gonna get a lot worse the more tube you throw in there.
I think it's just the pic and the uneven jack stands. But yes, the frame is bent.
 
So finally bit the bullet and did the engine X-member. Not super aesthetic but it will do the job.

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Got the front axle back underneath it. My shop buddy is gonna finish up his trailer BBQ this week and is gonna need to get it out by next weekend so I'm starting to really crank! I'm just gonna try to get the front on the ground and able to roll by then. And then I can just use a forklift and pick up the back and roll it out of the shop and then back in. Reminds me of my time when I worked in my old garage and was rushed to finish something for someone else and I hate it! Lol.

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Last night I got the engine cage all fully welded together. Now, I gotta fully weld the axle link brackets on, have the C/O mounts cut out and welded on and make the over-the-engine X-member, and then the front should be able to sit on its own weight! :woot:

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Pulled a late one last night...(4am, have work at 730):screwy:
but got the Coilover mounts cut out and fully welded on with the upper gussets. I am going to add gusseting along the bottom of the mounts to spread the load out a little more.

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Made sure the driver side coilover had plenty of clearance of the steering shaft

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That little plate on the upper shock mount doesn't really add anything strength-wise.

The thinnest part of that mount is right next to the tube (it's only about 1" thick/tall) so THAT'S where the mount will fail... instead of putting a flat plate there you should try to add two vertical plates to extend that area upward (one for each side of that bracket) and cut them so that the follow the curve of the tube and wrap around it as much as possible. That way, you increase that "thin" spot from about 1"...to maybe 2" and make it more impervious to the loading that it will see.

After that, you can cap it with a flat plate if you want.




.....also, check the toe-in spec on your front axle. Looks a bit off. :haha:


-G
 
That little plate on the upper shock mount doesn't really add anything strength-wise.

The thinnest part of that mount is right next to the tube (it's only about 1" thick/tall) so THAT'S where the mount will fail... instead of putting a flat plate there you should try to add two vertical plates to extend that area upward (one for each side of that bracket) and cut them so that the follow the curve of the tube and wrap around it as much as possible. That way, you increase that "thin" spot from about 1"...to maybe 2" and make it more impervious to the loading that it will see.

After that, you can cap it with a flat plate if you want.




.....also, check the toe-in spec on your front axle. Looks a bit off. :haha:


-G
Hahaha....I've been wondering why it's been chowing tires!!!:rotfl:
I'm having trouble visualizing what you're trying to say but I'm guessing this?:

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Hahaha....I've been wondering why it's been chowing tires!!!:rotfl:
I'm having trouble visualizing what you're trying to say but I'm guessing this?:

View attachment 209075


That's right....

You've got a LOT of sprung-weight pushing upward against that bracket.... and it's only about 1" tall where it meets the round tube. Anything you can do to add material above that (as you show in your fancyCAD drawing) would give it more strength.

I like to think in terms of "welded inches" sometimes as well. For a critical joint that needs to hold a lot of weight or resist massive forces it helps to think about many inches of weld is connecting those various parts together, or securing a bracket to a piece of tube. You can have BEEFY brackets everywhere, but if it's only welded 1/2" to 1" on each side.... the failure will likely be the weld (or right next to it).


-G
 
Not done yet. Just had to get the front on some wheels so we could move it around and get my buddies trailer BBQ out.

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20"+ of wheel travel...I'll take it.
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#STANCE
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Praise God! :bow: Finally found some 8 lug wheels for BlaZeus! Found on CL for a smashing deal. They are Pro Comp Alloys, 17x9 and pretty much brand new. This is a big break through as I have been searching for months, waiting for the right wheel deal to come up in my area. So I was able to finally get the 37" Toyo M/T's mounted on these, which I also picked up for a great deal awhile back.:woot: #ultimatebudgetbuildflagwaver

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Got the engine X-bars done tonight. Gonna put a plate on top that will connect them into 1 piece and a little surprise cut out of it ;)image.jpegimage.jpeg


DAMN DAT ASS DOE :bow::eek1:
Haven't seen BlaZeus with tires this big in the rear in a long time. It's looks like a monster now.:woot:
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So now that I have enough room for power brakes thanks to a redesigned engine cage, does anyone have a link to a good write up on what I'll need for Hydroboost brakes and how to do it?
Or should I just put another vac Booster in with a smaller diaphragm size? Thanks!
 
hydroboost or bust. Its fairly involved though. Really should buy the steering pump to go with said hydroboost unit as its a little better then doing a T. Also snag the boost unit from the junkyard. Theres a stupid ass pin inside of it that doesnt exist...as in you cant buy it anywhere. Without it youre dead in the water. I bought a reman unit thinking i was good to go....luckily a cool guy on here gave me the pin. If you check out some of my most recent build thread pages i have a lot of info on hydroboost as far as installing. Youll have to make a plate unless the junkyard comes with one. Theres a special stake nut on the back of that. If you dont need to take it off then its no problem. If you build a plate like myself then youll have to either buy some stupid expensive socket or you could rent mine i made lol.

Oddly enought the unit i bought (all 1987) lined up with the brake pedal. Thats sort of as far as i got as im jumping from one thing to another to keep myself busy.
 
hydroboost or bust. Its fairly involved though. Really should buy the steering pump to go with said hydroboost unit as its a little better then doing a T. Also snag the boost unit from the junkyard. Theres a stupid ass pin inside of it that doesnt exist...as in you cant buy it anywhere. Without it youre dead in the water. I bought a reman unit thinking i was good to go....luckily a cool guy on here gave me the pin. If you check out some of my most recent build thread pages i have a lot of info on hydroboost as far as installing. Youll have to make a plate unless the junkyard comes with one. Theres a special stake nut on the back of that. If you dont need to take it off then its no problem. If you build a plate like myself then youll have to either buy some stupid expensive socket or you could rent mine i made lol.

Oddly enought the unit i bought (all 1987) lined up with the brake pedal. Thats sort of as far as i got as im jumping from one thing to another to keep myself busy.
Thanks! Any idea on approximately what page??? Lol. You've got a long ass build thread:eek1::screwy::thumb:
 

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