87 K5 "Cashbag"

[wheels87k5]

Hillbilly Wizard fan shroud brackets and top plate. They sell some very good used parts. The top plate looks almost new.

All that's missing is the actual shroud.

 

[wheels87k5]

Getting ready to pull the 350/700r4

I really hated to sell that combo because it ran great and it taught me a lot about TBI. Well, actually, CK5 brothers/sisters taught me about the TBI, the motor was the hands on part. That combo is now going into a 1988 K20 that belongs to the new owner.

K5 looks naked without any motor and/or transmission. Top is also removed. This is the start of the Makeover that will begin within the next couple of weeks.
The wife's 2006 Z71 has some power steering hose seepage that I need to take care of, along with a water pump that is showing some very light seepage at the gasket/block.
Our new to us 2005 Suburban 2500 also has some power steering hose seepage.

Once these minor repairs are done, then the fun will begin. The K5 will get all new wiring, new windshield, finish cage, other interior work, body work, 454 Vortec/4L80e/241, driveshafts reworked, 40"-42" swampers.....and if there is time, new paint. BB18 is coming fast.

 

[Bent77]

I was getting ready to bump ya. Glad to see its out

Paint that BBC orange yet?

 

[wheels87k5]

Orange? Are you kidding me? Who would paint anything on there rig ORANGE ? Oh, wait. I would. That will be a surprise.

 

[wheels87k5]

@GWeakland620....Sorry to get off track from our conversation earlier. Sell me some patch panels for the rear quarters for my 87 K5.

Right rear between tire and rear bumper

Right rear just above front of tire.

Driver side rear. Looks like some body work done from PO that is bubbling.

I might need some of the flooring also. What can you get? Just let me know so I can get it ordered. Thanks, brother.

 

[wheels87k5]

Getting this K5 ready for BB18 is taking more time than expected. My job picked up some extra work for McDonalds, upgrading their network, and it's keeping me working 20-40 hours overtime a week. It has to be done at night so I start around 7:00 pm and finish up around 6:00 am the next morning. Then I get to do my regular work if it's available. I'm not complaining about the paychecks, but it makes it hard to get anything done. I also have chores around the house and misc. repairs or helping someone else in need.

Anyway, just a small update on the "Makeover".

I got with @GWeakland620 and got some panels ordered. Your are 100% correct, Greg, these panels are superb. Thank you.

I can't wait to get started on the welding to get them done. The first thing I need to do is repair/weld two body mounts underneath the K5. Then I can start replacing the cargo floor with the new panels.
I've got to finish the cage in that area also.

The quarter panels can wait until the rest of the work is done. New engine, transmission, NP241, etc has priority. Not getting the quarter panels done will not keep me from BB18. I'm probably going to need to wait anyway since there is always a possibility of damage.

I worked with Chris @1977k5 and @Stephen at ORD on getting the Trail Ready Beadlocks ordered. Possibly a 2 month wait but it could be sooner. I ordered 5 of the HD17s with the World Series ring, 3.5" backspacing.
Thank you Chris and Stephen.

Once I get a break in work I'll get some 42" Super Swampers ordered so they can get here soon.

Other than that, just a waiting game. I will post up some pics as the progess moves forward.

 

[GWeakland620]

Glad to hear you like the panels. I try to tell everyone how great the product is.

Also, I had no idea you were going 42’s, I can’t wait to see this beast done!!!

 

[swettysblazer]

Glad to hear you like the panels. I try to tell everyone how great the product is.

Also, I had no idea you were going 42’s, I can’t wait to see this beast done!!!

What panels are they?

 

[Bent77]

What panels are they?

Those are fenders

 

[GWeakland620]

What panels are they?

Goodmark Industries

Those are fenders

Technically no, they are quarter patch panels.

 

[Bent77]

Goodmark Industries

Technically no, they are quarter patch panels.

Shut up Carl

 

[wazzabie]

How is the thickness on these panels compared to the originals?

Getting this K5 ready for BB18 is taking more time than expected. My job picked up some extra work for McDonalds, upgrading their network, and it's keeping me working 20-40 hours overtime a week. It has to be done at night so I start around 7:00 pm and finish up around 6:00 am the next morning. Then I get to do my regular work if it's available. I'm not complaining about the paychecks, but it makes it hard to get anything done. I also have chores around the house and misc. repairs or helping someone else in need.

Anyway, just a small update on the "Makeover".

I got with @GWeakland620 and got some panels ordered. Your are 100% correct, Greg, these panels are superb. Thank you.

I can't wait to get started on the welding to get them done. The first thing I need to do is repair/weld two body mounts underneath the K5. Then I can start replacing the cargo floor with the new panels.
I've got to finish the cage in that area also.

The quarter panels can wait until the rest of the work is done. New engine, transmission, NP241, etc has priority. Not getting the quarter panels done will not keep me from BB18. I'm probably going to need to wait anyway since there is always a possibility of damage.

I worked with Chris @1977k5 and @Stephen at ORD on getting the Trail Ready Beadlocks ordered. Possibly a 2 month wait but it could be sooner. I ordered 5 of the HD17s with the World Series ring, 3.5" backspacing.
Thank you Chris and Stephen.

Once I get a break in work I'll get some 42" Super Swampers ordered so they can get here soon.

Other than that, just a waiting game. I will post up some pics as the progess moves forward.

 

[wheels87k5]

The original panels are showing .048 thousands compared to Goodmark at .040 thousands.

 

[wheels87k5]

Built a frame for the body to sit on. Now I can work on the frame and other items while I have the clearance.

 

[GWeakland620]

Not a terrible idea!

 

[wheels87k5]

I tell my kids that this is the height that the truck will be when I'm done. I get that....."Are you serious? How do you get into it?" look.

The grandkids thinks it's cool.

I can roll the frame out from underneath the body if I remove the front shocks and shock towers. Amazing how much you can do when you have the room.

 

[wheels87k5]

Christmas came early. Brown Santa stopped by today.

Thanks to @Stephen and @1977k5 at ORD for getting these ordered for me. They are AWESOME. Can't wait to get some 42" Swampers mounted on them.

 

[wheels87k5]

I am swapping in a Vortec 454 7.4L. I had the harness and PCM reworked by Team208Motorsports. The transmission is the 4L80E. It is a 2WD tranny but I made the changes to 4WD. It has two speed sensors on the side of the tranny. Is this going to provide the signal needed to the PCM? Or is there some other type of part needed to get this engine to start and run?

When I had the 350 TBI, I used a speed sensor that hooked up to the NP241 to provide the signal to the speedometer, that sent the signal to the ECM. Wasn't sure if there is anything else since it was a 4L80E.

I am still a ways out on starting this engine, just wanting to know if there is anything I am missing once I am ready to get it rolling.



Since my NP241 doesn't have the output speed sensor, it sounds like I would need to use both sensors from the 4L80E.

With the 350 TBI, the speed sensor that mounted to the np241 enabled the electronic autometer speedometer to work because they worked together with the sensor revs. It would then send the required signal to the ECM. I wasn't sure how the signal got to the L29 PCM except through the speed sensors on the 4L80E. I'm just trying to make sure I have everything necessary when it's time to start this thing and that it has the signal needed.



This is what I'm needing to find out. If what I have now will not work like needed, what do I need to do to correct it?

Do I need to add something to the NP241 so that it will be in sync?

Since my NP241 is the mechanical speedometer, will I need to convert it to electrical?

My thought would be you need the output on the t-case. This goes into the second question you pose, only reading output at the trans will not be accurate in low range. I'd go for converting the mechanical output to electric. From there it's a matter of pulling the signal off of the drac module (stock for a VSS equipped square) to provide the output speed to the ECM.

Then I'm confused........just a little more than usual, but according to this article on Pirate, it says to run the 2WD 4L80E as is. And not to use the T-case as the speed sensor.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/1952482-4l80-rear-vss-location.html

Or am I reading it wrong. How do you see it?

They can be done either way. GM does it both ways. 4wd gets the output speed sensor in the t-case, 2wd obviously don't have a t-case so they need to use the rear output in the trans. However, using a 2wd trans coverted to a 4wd rear ouput shaft you could use the rear output on the trans, but normally you would need an input to the trans/pcm controller to indicate 4lo is on.

The guy that did your harness and tune should be telling you how they have it set up to run. I'd check with him.

You can use the transmission output speed sensor. The only problem with that is your speedometer will be off in low range. The factory setup that uses the transfer case output, grounds out a wire when you shift to low range. That sends a signal back to your computer that recalibrates your shift points. Make sure that wire is not hooked up if you are using the transmission output. Your engine and transmission will just think it is a 2 wheel drive. Waynehartwig on pirate in your link does the same thing as Josh and they both really know what they are doing.

On my TCI controller for my 4L80, I used the rearmost of the two outputs on the trans for the speed sensor signal. I tried to use the 241 signal, but the controller didn’t like it (signal wasn't in the format the controller expected). Doing it this way will mean that 4-low will confuse the controller. Expect to have to shift manually in that use case

I was curious of this as well.

Now that my 80e has a doubler, I don't feel like making ground switches for all the shifters just for an accurate speedo

From the link above......and after further research:

{Waynehartwig: Put it between the Tcase and Trans. That way regardless of your driveshaft/road speed, the trans will always shift correctly.
Best is to convert the trans (or buy) to 2wd. ie put the VSS inside the trans. Some 4wd transmissions will actually have the code wheel inside and you just need to a speed sensor. Some don't have anything. Take the plug off and look inside to figure it out...
Bad thing about adding a 4lo wire and VSS on the end of the Tcase, is if you have a 4:1 Atlas. Or anything NOT 2.72:1....}

AND:

(Is there such thing as a 2wd and a 4wd tune fore the ECM, is that something I need to consider?)

{Waynehartwig: Nope. Well there is, but it won't matter once you move the VSS into the trans.
If an accurate 4lo speedo is important to you, have the speedo run off the VSS on the output of the tcase. Then it will be accurate and independent of the trans shifting.}

So.....

It looks like I should be able to use both sensors from the 4L80E and have all shift points. The speedometer will be ran from the aftermarket speed sensor off the NP241.

Once I get to that point, I will update everyone with how it ran and shifted. I'm also going to copy and paste this in my build thread.

I did reach out to Josh to get his input on the tune. I'll let you know what he says.

 

[wheels87k5]

It has been a long time since posting here so an update is in order.

The past few weeks I've been working some crazy hours, plus trying to get some work done on the K5. Finally started on the front links.

I built a roller/cradle for the axles. Made if from parts off a "Total Gym" and other misc. metal I had sitting around. Makes moving the Dana 60 really easy.




I've got the frame brackets tacked in place and a couple of the heims tacked in the tubes.





Now for the fun. I have the pan hard bar bracket tack welded on with a clearance of 1/8" from the pitman arm. I know this will be the most forward I can put the axle but after talking with Wade and Ben it might be too close. So I think the best thing for me to do is move the bracket and put about 1/2" to 1" space between the bracket and pitman arm. I have two 40" Maxxis Creepy Crawlers being delivered tomorrow so I can do a mock up and check for clearances.

 

[Bent77]

Good progress there!