'91 K5 Four Wheel Camper

[RubberFloorMat]

Well if we get to count models. I have an original clod buster. View attachment 220516

i had one of those!!

 

[beags86]

i had one of those!!

I had the toy as a kid...

Then I built the real thing when I was an adult.

LOL

 

[ZooMad75]

I could have swore I mounted mine above that lip, guess not. I love these old bumpers.

Great rig BTW

Great Burb. I like the added LED lights in the bumper.

@beags86 I would have given up my little sister back in the day for a Clod. That or a Bruiser, but they were crazy money back then. I've got a Monster Beetle and Super Blackfoot still. Had some wicked modified motors in them and tore up a lot of stuff. The Monster Beetle's diff wouldn't put up with the abuse as I was always rebuilding it. Tried a Thorp ball diff and chewed it up too. Ended up locking the diff up with a gear from a Subaru Brat kit. I'm glad I kept all those old kits.

 

[beags86]

Haha, I need to get the clod out again, probably needs new batteries. It's been YEARS!

But hey it's never to late, they still sell the clod now as the super clod buster.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...ToKdcCK1mC3Oy5uiaJ7oAI11XdBdO9kPFwaAk8E8P8HAQ

 

[campfire]

Haha, I need to get the clod out again, probably needs new batteries. It's been YEARS!

But hey it's never to late, they still sell the clod now as the super clod buster.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...ToKdcCK1mC3Oy5uiaJ7oAI11XdBdO9kPFwaAk8E8P8HAQ

$300, eh? Some of us paid less than that for our actual trucks! (MartinMartinMartin)

 

[Justin V]

$300, eh? Some of us paid less than that for our actual trucks! (MartinMartinMartin)

Me!

 

[campfire]

Me!

I paid $1 for my first one. But have not been able to duplicate that in my second or third ones. I'm not sure what sort of magic negotiation skills I lost along the way.

 

[ZooMad75]

As much as I liked the clod as a kid, I actually want a Valterra K5 crawler. Right now my RC garage is all go fast stuff. A Mamba Max powered Rustler on 3s lipo is the road rocket. Then I converted a Cen 1/8th scale buggy nitro burner to brushless to run up to 4s power. I've got a drift car I built out of some no-name Chinese nitro touring car. It got converted to brushless power too. It's pretty fun at the local indoor drift track.

Campy $300 is pretty cheap really in comparison to other kits. That one does not include the radio, steering servo or battery. Depending on what you want you can double it with a nice 2.4ghz radio. I've already got a sweet radio. Spektrum Dx3s, 20 model memory, a ton of adjustable settings and onboard telemetry. This radio has more range than I can see. Pretty important when the Rusty clocks in at 70 mph on the radar gun. That's covering a lot of ground fast.

 

[campfire]

As much as I liked the clod as a kid, I actually want a Valterra K5 crawler. Right now my RC garage is all go fast stuff. A Mamba Max powered Rustler on 3s lipo is the road rocket. Then I converted a Cen 1/8th scale buggy nitro burner to brushless to run up to 4s power. I've got a drift car I built out of some no-name Chinese nitro touring car. It got converted to brushless power too. It's pretty fun at the local indoor drift track.

Campy $300 is pretty cheap really in comparison to other kits. That one does not include the radio, steering servo or battery. Depending on what you want you can double it with a nice 2.4ghz radio. I've already got a sweet radio. Spektrum Dx3s, 20 model memory, a ton of adjustable settings and onboard telemetry. This radio has more range than I can see. Pretty important when the Rusty clocks in at 70 mph on the radar gun. That's covering a lot of ground fast.

I wanna watch.

I grew up around model airplanes, but have not ventured into model ground vehicles.

 

[ZooMad75]

That's all I've had for RC. I did buy my son a RC plane one year for Xmas. That lasted one flight session. He Charlie Brown'd the plane in a tree. Worked like hell to get it unstuck. But it broke the tail off. We went back to cars.

If you loose radio contact on a plane, who knows where it ends up. Cars don't get out of sight. They can get run over by full size cars if you chase them though.

 

[beags86]

Yeah, I agree the clod leaves alot to be desired. I ran a t-maxx for years, got out of the nitro game and now have a brush less rustler as well.

My dad and I flew airplanes for a long time. Most are just sitting now. Man do I have some storys about running planes out of radio control and crashing....

 

[ZooMad75]

Yeah, I agree the clod leaves alot to be desired. I ran a t-maxx for years, got out of the nitro game and now have a brush less rustler as well.

My dad and I flew airplanes for a long time. Most are just sitting now. Man do I have some storys about running planes out of radio control and crashing....

I like the monster trucks, they are silly to run for sure. I've built a couple of Stampedes for my sister's kids and one for my Dad. Wheelies are fun. All the fun of a Clod with a lot more speed and lot cheaper.

Here's a pic of my Rusty. Lots of STRC aluminum bits, widened front track to match the rears (all RPM arms), STRC aluminum shocks with variable orifice pistons, Aluminum Gearbox and Slash 4x4 driveshafts. I was running MIP shafts for a long time with a ton of abuse, but finally ended up shattering one of the bells. It's a blast to drive in a wide open space.

 

[GWeakland620]

$300, eh? Some of us paid less than that for our actual trucks! (MartinMartinMartin)

I paid right at $300. Best Buy ever.

 

[beags86]

You just made me think.. I don't know where mine is even At right now.

My t-maxx would run about 60-65... Good grief nitro was fun... And costly, I think I broke something Everytime.

 

[ZooMad75]

Getting back on track. I ordered a plate bracket for the front bumper. Need to be legal. Tuffy is having a sale. Picked up a folding bracket that fits behind the hawse fairlead. Nevermind the Heep in the pic.

$16 is a bargain. I couldn't make one and powder coat it for that little. Plus it's made in Colorado, got to support the little guys!

 

[ZooMad75]

Another beautiful day in Southern Colorado for sure. Got some chores done outside, put up more Christmas decorations and finished out the dual battery project. I went simple in this case. I'm just running a 150 amp continuous duty solenoid and have it tied to a keyed on source to turn it on. If the key is on, batteries are joined, key off the second battery is isolated. Winch is hooked up to the second battery. This way I can winch key off and not kill the main starting battery. So on to the pics..

I had bought some 2ga welding cable off of Amazon a few weeks ago for this project. Larry loaned me his hydraulic crimper and cable cutter. I picked up some 2ga copper lugs to install on the cables at the local 'zone.


Further proof that there is a right tool for every job, Larry's hydraulic crimper works slick and locks the lugs on the ends of the cables.


A little shrink wrap on the ends to seal it off and the short cable from the 2nd battery to the solenoid is complete.


The Negative cable and main positive cables went together the same way. The negative was run to the serp bracket on the engine to an existing threaded hole. The main positive cable is secured to the core support all the way across.


Pardon the dust. Need to rinse it off. I verified the operation with my DVOM and it's switching on as planned and goes off with the key. Winch is powered up and works as it should. Ready for a snow run!!

I did check out another issue I've noticed when I drive it. I have to cycle the key at minimum 3 times before starting or it won't have fuel to start. Using Larry's fuel pressure gauge I can tell it's bleeding pressure off almost immediately after shutting the key off. Running pressure is right on spec, but it drops like a rock with the key switched off. Not sure if the fuel pressure regulator is causing this or if the check valve in the pump is stuck open. Based on another thing I noticed today the tank might have to come down eventually. The fuel gauge has never been right from the get go. Full reading comes in a 1/4 past full. I've filled almost 30 gallons before and the gauge indicated just under 1/2. Today heading out to take my battery charger off of my in-law's Caddy I noticed the fuel gauge going bonkers. Like the needle pointing past 3 o'clock on the face and wiggling up and down from there. I'm betting there's a dead spot on the resistor card. It's going to need some attention at some point.

 

[campfire]

Another beautiful day in Southern Colorado for sure. Got some chores done outside, put up more Christmas decorations and finished out the dual battery project. I went simple in this case. I'm just running a 150 amp continuous duty solenoid and have it tied to a keyed on source to turn it on. If the key is on, batteries are joined, key off the second battery is isolated. Winch is hooked up to the second battery. This way I can winch key off and not kill the main starting battery. So on to the pics..

I had bought some 2ga welding cable off of Amazon a few weeks ago for this project. Larry loaned me his hydraulic crimper and cable cutter. I picked up some 2ga copper lugs to install on the cables at the local 'zone.


Further proof that there is a right tool for every job, Larry's hydraulic crimper works slick and locks the lugs on the ends of the cables.


A little shrink wrap on the ends to seal it off and the short cable from the 2nd battery to the solenoid is complete.


The Negative cable and main positive cables went together the same way. The negative was run to the serp bracket on the engine to an existing threaded hole. The main positive cable is secured to the core support all the way across.


Pardon the dust. Need to rinse it off. I verified the operation with my DVOM and it's switching on as planned and goes off with the key. Winch is powered up and works as it should. Ready for a snow run!!

I did check out another issue I've noticed when I drive it. I have to cycle the key at minimum 3 times before starting or it won't have fuel to start. Using Larry's fuel pressure gauge I can tell it's bleeding pressure off almost immediately after shutting the key off. Running pressure is right on spec, but it drops like a rock with the key switched off. Not sure if the fuel pressure regulator is causing this or if the check valve in the pump is stuck open. Based on another thing I noticed today the tank might have to come down eventually. The fuel gauge has never been right from the get go. Full reading comes in a 1/4 past full. I've filled almost 30 gallons before and the gauge indicated just under 1/2. Today heading out to take my battery charger off of my in-law's Caddy I noticed the fuel gauge going bonkers. Like the needle pointing past 3 o'clock on the face and wiggling up and down from there. I'm betting there's a dead spot on the resistor card. It's going to need some attention at some point.

Nice wiring. That Gov't ID tag is pretty similar formatting to what the CUCVs got, but yours looks like a sticker instead of a stamped plate. And mine are on the driver door instead of the core support.

 

[campfire]

I noticed the fuel gauge going bonkers. Like the needle pointing past 3 o'clock on the face and wiggling up and down from there. I'm betting there's a dead spot on the resistor card. It's going to need some attention at some point.

Yeah, that sounds right. 3 o'clock is the open-circuit position. Could also be a break at any point in the wiring, so check your connectors, too.

 

[ZooMad75]

Nice wiring. That Gov't ID tag is pretty similar formatting to what the CUCVs got, but yours looks like a sticker instead of a stamped plate. And mine are on the driver door instead of the core support.

It's actually stamped also. It's just a thicker label and not a plate like the CUCV's got. I'd actually like to reproduce this but not sure how.

Yeah, that sounds right. 3 o'clock is the open-circuit position. Could also be a break at any point in the wiring, so check your connectors, too.

I added 15 gallons to the tank and had it reading just above full. If it was an open circuit somewhere in the wiring I'd have noticed the needle fluctuation before when driving on or off road. I'm pretty sure once the tank got low enough it hit the dead spot. I could make it change based on turning the truck or braking. Until I pull the tank, I'll just know if starts freaking out I'm at 1/4 tank or less. In other words *Fill the tank stupid!

 

[campfire]

I added 15 gallons to the tank and had it reading just above full. If it was an open circuit somewhere in the wiring I'd have noticed the needle fluctuation before when driving on or off road. I'm pretty sure once the tank got low enough it hit the dead spot. I could make it change based on turning the truck or braking. Until I pull the tank, I'll just know if starts freaking out I'm at 1/4 tank or less. In other words *Fill the tank stupid!

Ok, if it's only freaking out toward the bottom of the tank, that does look like a smoking gun.